Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

"Fascia infomation, show me your facias pics"

5397 views
14 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    February 2008
  • From: Sunny SoCal
  • 423 posts
Posted by Margaritaman on Monday, September 28, 2009 7:50 PM

Having sliced my hand a long time ago with tempered hardboard, to the tune of 12 stitches, I now fear the stuff.  Mine is 1/8" standard hardboard (not as sharp).

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • 1,132 posts
Posted by saronaterry on Monday, September 28, 2009 4:18 PM

1/8 masonite here ,too.

 

 

Terry

Terry in NW Wisconsin

Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Seattle Area
  • 1,794 posts
Posted by Capt. Grimek on Monday, September 28, 2009 2:16 PM
This thread demonstrates why I love this forum and appreciate it's members so much! *** Unique and clever ideas like the use of chalkboard for switching instructions and the topside toggle shelf. I'd be curious to see the latter in a slightly more long distance shot in context with a "down the benchwork" scenery inclusive view if that's easy. (?)*** I'd also be curious to see what "average" height above the table top mot HO folks leave the front edge to discourage leaning during operations, etc.*** Any other tricks to discourage such behavior would be appreciated too! Looking very forward to seeing more.

Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Monday, September 28, 2009 1:19 PM

Driline

That is one NICE massive layout you got there!

 

Thanks, Frank, although it's not really all that massive - the entire room is about 560 sq.ft., but it's a rather odd shape.  I've left fairly generous aisles in most places, too.  Part of the layout is intended to be double-decked, and although I have most of the material for the benchwork, not much time to install it. 

Wayne

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Finger Lakes
  • 10,198 posts
Posted by howmus on Monday, September 28, 2009 12:27 PM

 I also used 1/8" tempered masonite for the fascia.  I have been recently adding a black curtain to the bottom of the layout to hide legs, boxes, concrete floor....., etc.  the top edge of the fascia was cut using a hand jig saw, or my band saw.

73

Ray Seneca Lake, Ontario, and Western R.R. (S.L.O.&W.) in HO

We'll get there sooner or later! 

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: New Brighton, MN
  • 4,393 posts
Posted by ARTHILL on Monday, September 28, 2009 12:03 PM

My two additions to all those who use masonite for facia are:

1. I added a small shelf on top for the toggle switches

2. I screwed to facia on with decerative screws.

A couple of pics

If you think you have it right, your standards are too low. my photos http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a235/ARTHILL/ Art
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Bettendorf Iowa
  • 2,173 posts
Posted by Driline on Monday, September 28, 2009 11:18 AM

doctorwayne
I used regular (not tempered) 1/8" Masonite, fastened in place with drywall screws.  I currently have no plans to paint it, as there's still a lot of layout work to be done.  Most of it was pre-cut (from the back face) using a Skilsaw and a straightedge. 

 

That is one NICE massive layout you got there!

Modeling the Davenport Rock Island & Northwestern 1995 in HO
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Kentucky
  • 10,660 posts
Posted by Heartland Division CB&Q on Monday, September 28, 2009 10:41 AM

My fascia is chalkboard. All I do is cut it and fasten it.  Later, I can use chalk to writing switching instructions for the crews.

 

GARRY

HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR

EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Canada, eh?
  • 13,375 posts
Posted by doctorwayne on Monday, September 28, 2009 10:06 AM

I used regular (not tempered) 1/8" Masonite, fastened in place with drywall screws.  I currently have no plans to paint it, as there's still a lot of layout work to be done.  Most of it was pre-cut (from the back face) using a Skilsaw and a straightedge. 

The areas here with a "water" feature (at the end of the aisle and also at right) were installed at a constant height, then trimmed, using a jigsaw, to follow the contours of the land and water after the rough scenery was in place:

I also use the same material for coving both the inside and outside corners of the room.  The gap is to allow for installation of a partial second level of the layout.  Its facia will join with the top of the high facia already in place, which will then be trimmed to match the contours of the scenery:

It's easy to form curves with this material, too:  this one is roughly an 8" radius:

Wayne

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Columbia, Pa.
  • 1,592 posts
Posted by Grampys Trains on Monday, September 28, 2009 9:47 AM

 I used 3/16" Luan plywood for my fascia and valance, painted in a dark green that closely matches WS dark green foliage. I screwed it in place before finishing the scenery and cut it in place with a saber saw. DJ.

 

  • Member since
    June 2005
  • From: Phoenixville, PA
  • 3,495 posts
Posted by nbrodar on Monday, September 28, 2009 9:26 AM

 For my layout's yard extension, I used styrene:

I cut the strips from For Sale signs, and attached them to the foam base using latex caulk

The main layout is 1/4 inch AC plywood I had left over from a furniture project:

Here I screwed the plywood to the layout frame. I made no attempt to hide or cover the screws.

Nick

Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Clinton, MO, US
  • 4,261 posts
Posted by Medina1128 on Monday, September 28, 2009 8:06 AM

I clamp my fascia in place. The trace the shape of the scenery to the fascia. Unclamp it, then cut it out using a jigsaw, then attach into place with countersunk screws.

 

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Chippewa Falls, WI
  • 267 posts
Posted by MPRR on Monday, September 28, 2009 7:09 AM

What do you use to cut your facia to the shape of the land?? Is the height of your facia level with the ground, or is there a small lip??

Mike Captain in Charge AJP Logging RR
  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: US
  • 4,648 posts
Posted by jacon12 on Monday, September 28, 2009 6:48 AM

 I'm no expert on facia but I agree it does give a finished look to a layout.  I'm in the process of installing 1/4 inch hardboard now.  I particularly like facia when a layout has curves on all perimeters, my layout has this in most places but not all.  I do have some square corners.  When finished I'll paint it a dark green.

Jarrell

 HO Scale DCC Modeler of 1950, give or take 30 years.
  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: west of Portland Oreg.( the city of Roses
  • 599 posts
"Fascia infomation, show me your facias pics"
Posted by TrainsRMe1 on Monday, September 28, 2009 12:03 AM

Hey All,

      I would like to have great looking fascias on my layout, I see them all the time and I think they make a layout look so professional can you all show me pictures of your facia on your layouts? And how did you build them? Thanks alotSmile,Wink, & Grin

                                          Smooth Tracks-n- Happy Life

                                                                     CoolTrainsRme1 

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!