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why wont my engines run on certain parts of my layout?

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  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Culpeper, Va
  • 8,204 posts
Posted by IRONROOSTER on Thursday, August 20, 2009 11:11 AM

Some thoughts:

If it starts and stops on a single section of track, the track and/or the pickup wheels on the locomotive are dirty.

If it starts on one section of track and stops on the next you have poor electrical connections add a pair of feeder wires to the section where it stops.

If it starts before a turnout and stops afterward the turnout isn't carrying the current very well, put feeders on both sides of the turnout.

If it stops in the middle of the turnout, you're probably relying on the switch points to carry the current, clean these and the rail next to them on the sides where they meet.  A future project is to wire the points, but watch out for a metal connecting bar and for power routing turnouts or you may introduce a short.  In which case you'll also need to have an electric switch in the wiring or modify it to isolate the frog and or the points from each other..

If you have larger areas of the layout where nothing runs or you have to turn the throttle higher, then you're carrying power through too many rail joiners and need to add more feeders.  Or your feeders are too small and you need larger ones.

Good luck

Paul

 

If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Thursday, August 20, 2009 10:40 AM

Often, the joiners that are problematic will reveal themselves with pressure.  If your engine goes, then stops, take a wooden dowel or something hard like that and press down on one or both joiners on either side of the place where the engine has stalled.  Chances are good a bit of downward and sideways pressure on the rail head(s) will momentarily restore power.  If that quick check works out for you, your next step is fairly straightforward.  You can either slide the joiner(s) back and forth a couple of times to restore connectivity, or you can do that and solder them so that you never have to do the trouble-shooting again. 

By the way, this problem with connectivity almost never happens on a day when you are wanting to enjoy your trains when you have a few minutes to spare.  It always happens when you check out your trains in preparation for some guests, or if you are really unlucky, it will happen with several bemused faces, including your own, wondering why your trains won't move. Blush Big Smile

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Southeast Texas
  • 5,447 posts
Posted by mobilman44 on Thursday, August 20, 2009 7:52 AM

Hi!

Obviously, electricity is not getting to the loco motor.  Typically, there are three situations that will cause this.

The first is a lack of electrical feeders to the track.  With DCC, feeders about every 3 feet are desireable, with DC, feeders about every 5 or 6 feet are ok.

The second is dirty track.  Most MRs use nickel silver track, which does not get as "dirty" as brass track.  In either case, they collect dust and grime and reduce electrical thru-put.  Take a rag with some alcohol and rub the rails.  You will see black!  For really severe cases, use a track cleaner abrasive, but "be gentle". 

The third situation is dirty loco/rolling stock wheels.  Plastic wheels especially pick up grime, and loco wheels tend to do the same.  Cleaning loco wheels can be a little difficult, but there have been lots of suggestions on this Forum to do it more easily.

Oh, one last thing is your track may not be connected properly, meaning the track joiners have worked loose and/or provide poor connectivity.  Many MRs solder connections, but that isn't necessary on a small pike IF you make sure they are tight.

ENJOY,

Mobilman44

ENJOY  !

 

Mobilman44

 

Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • 1,511 posts
Posted by pastorbob on Thursday, August 20, 2009 7:45 AM

Hansel

I remember seeing in a previous issue of MR where a modeler powered his locos with rechargable batteries installed in the loco and ran the throttle with a wireless remote control and a servo in the loco.  He said the batteries last 3 hours or so.  If this became the trend then we wouldn't have to worry about all of this wiring, clean tracks and other electric nonsense anymore!  You could also run more than one loco on the same track.

Will this be the wave of the future?

Not for me.  I have a garden railroad out back with 9 USA diesels powered with battery packs and runs on radio control.  Beautiful, until I go to run and find most of the battery packs need a recharge.

My HO layout inside is DCC and it runs all the time, no recharging.

Bob

Bob Miller http://www.atsfmodelrailroads.com/
  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: Orig: Tyler Texas. Lived in seven countries, now live in Sundown, Louisiana
  • 25,640 posts
Posted by jeffrey-wimberly on Thursday, August 20, 2009 7:24 AM

 Clean your track, solder rail joiners (solder jumpers around expansion joints), clean your locos well, check all the wiring, run feeders every 6 feet.

Running Bear, Sundown, Louisiana
          Joined June, 2004

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  • Member since
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Posted by Hansel on Thursday, August 20, 2009 6:11 AM

I remember seeing in a previous issue of MR where a modeler powered his locos with rechargable batteries installed in the loco and ran the throttle with a wireless remote control and a servo in the loco.  He said the batteries last 3 hours or so.  If this became the trend then we wouldn't have to worry about all of this wiring, clean tracks and other electric nonsense anymore!  You could also run more than one loco on the same track.

Will this be the wave of the future?

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Rogers, Minnesota
  • 219 posts
Posted by Jimmydieselfan on Thursday, August 20, 2009 5:33 AM

Clean your track.

N Scale Diesels......I like 'em

  • Member since
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Posted by R. T. POTEET on Thursday, August 20, 2009 2:38 AM

kwitchurbitchin'! I got engines that won't run on any part of my layout!

Seriously the problem you are experiencing is probably the most frustrating thing about model railroad power; the only thing you can do is grab a multimeter and start checking. It sounds suspiciously that you either have a bad contact in either the tender or the drivers in the locomotive or you've got a loose wire at your motor.

From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet

  • Member since
    October 2002
  • From: City of Québec,Canada
  • 1,258 posts
Posted by Jacktal on Thursday, August 20, 2009 12:23 AM

A few reasons could do this,but most likely rail joiners corrosion or getting loose with time.One quick cure is to solder the track joints but it will likely remove any expansion gaps.Another cure,what I would do and recommend,is having track feeders added to all track sections that are between gaps.More work but more bulletproof.I don't trust rail joiners for reliable conductivity but like to allow for some expansion.

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • 5 posts
Posted by ouisconsin223 on Thursday, August 20, 2009 12:15 AM

thanks

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: Southeast Kansas
  • 1,329 posts
Posted by wholeman on Thursday, August 20, 2009 12:14 AM

Check the problem areas with a multimeter.  You may have some areas that have broken connections.  Also check for shorts.  You may want to install some track feeders.  This may be hard to do depending on how complete the layout is.

Will

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • 5 posts
why wont my engines run on certain parts of my layout?
Posted by ouisconsin223 on Thursday, August 20, 2009 12:02 AM

About 6 years ago i started making an HO scale layout and at first it ran fine, but now when i run it it starts and stops. why does it do this and how can i fix it.

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