What would you not do again if you started over knowing what you know now?

[UP 4-12-2]

Steam power--I've decided to just leave it to the history books.

I do enjoy it, but some of the diesels are so inexpensive by comparison, and cost, for me, is now an issue.

So I'm dieselizing in the hopes of raising some needed cash.

John

 

[widetrack]

Lets see, as I sit here comtemplating my upcoming move in about six or seven months or so, I have already decided to stay in HO. However there will be no duckunders or benchwork wider than my arm is long! Now it I had the money and more importantly the space I would go to a larger scale. For the simple reason that it is easier on the eyes when working on things, those of you who look over the tops of your glasses know what I am talking about here, LOL don't deny it you know you do!   Neil     

[johncolley]

At my age (72) I would definitely not undertake a large layout project that severely strains my reduced income. Also, I would not build a maintenance nightmare that causes me to spend more time cleaning track than running trains! I have learned the hard way that rather than the above headaches it is better for me to join operating groups and run on other people's layouts. I will just make a simple layout that I can manage and program equipment on. On the plus side, I am a devout believer in metal wheelsets and KD couplers on all rolling stock! And I have learned that having sound helps me to operate prototypically with compliance to speeds and bell/whistle signals. John

[SpaceMouse]

Sir Madog

 Here is an odd one:

I would not start developing a track plan without having a fairly precise view on the scenery I want to have!

When planning a layout, we mostly think in terms of track and operation, less in scenery and appearance. As long as we are happy with having a Plywood Pacific RR, it is perfectly fine, but if we go for something more delicate, just filling the space between the tracks is not enough.

 

Yes! 

And streets and parking for employees and access for truck deliveries.

 

[Anonymous]

 Here is an odd one:

I would not start developing a track plan without having a fairly precise view on the scenery I want to have!

When planning a layout, we mostly think in terms of track and operation, less in scenery and appearance. As long as we are happy with having a Plywood Pacific RR, it is perfectly fine, but if we go for something more delicate, just filling the space between the tracks is not enough.

[SpaceMouse]

If you are want a good looking-layout, EZ Track isn't easy.

Don't put turnouts in tunnels.

It's easier to spend a night on the couch than it is to walk away from a loco you need when it is on sale.

Plan, Plan, research and plan.

You never have too much staging.

Don't drink Bear Wiz Beer.

[Hamltnblue]

 LOL, True

Also I'd always read before buying anything.  I have lots of stuff I probably wouldn't have picked up if I read the forums first.

[PASMITH]

Knowing now that this thread started back in August of 2009, I would not not go back to the first post and start reading it again. Peter Smith, Memphis

[da_kraut]

Motley

5.) Must have Kadee couplers!

 

Kadee couplers and steel wheels, incredible how much of a difference such small items make.

Frank

[Motley]

Oh boy...where to start, let's see here...

1.) Build better benchwork with around the walls style, no access holes.
     Lesson learned: My new 9'x9' extension room layout will be around the walls.

2.) Build a better mountain.

3.) Larger radius curves. Currently I have 24" min., I should have gone 30".

4.) Design the yard FIRST and then design the rest of the layout around that.

5.) Must have Kadee couplers!

[galaxy]

OH, If I dared look back at "What would you not do again if you started over knowing what you know now?" I am not so sure I would dare venture back into the hobby!!!

 

I think I would run far far away!

As fast as I could!

[da_kraut]

 Hello everybody,

just wanted to bump this thread back to the top for people starting out in the hobby and also would like to add one more item:

1 Wish I would have changed every coupler out to a Kadee #5 on every piece of rolling stock right from the start.  It is easy to simulate pull aparts on my 30 inch radius helix with a 25 car freight and plastic couplers.  Just had a 51 car freight go up and down my helix twice without any coupler issues whatsoever.  Also these Kadee's work soooooooooooooooo much better then their generic counterparts in switching operations.

Hope it helps,

Frank

[Railroader_Sailor_SSN-760]

 1.) Never bought that damned Kato N-scale TGV set, that thing has some shoddy draw-bars and solder. I bought the thing new, and I still have not gotten a reply back as to when they will fix it. I already have build better drawbars for it....

2.)  Never bought an Athearn engine, as they stopped making kits and selling replacement parts for the kit engines that I have.

3.) Gotten into TT scale earlier. The 1" = 10' makes scratchbuilding design a lot easier than converting 1:87 or 1:160.

4.) Put more thought into my last HO scale layout's design. (Too cramped)

5.) Never use roadbed track. Roadbed track is almost always of low quality and limits what one can do with their layout.

Things I would keep: 

1.) The old Varney steamers that I rebuilt.

2.) Pretty much everything else.

3.) All the gauges I work with: T, Z, N, TT, HO, S, O, Standard, G,and 8 3/4"

[toot toot]

1) no duckunders or access openings

2) better access to hidden staging

3) i would have bought a "topside creeper" much earlier

4) would have been more careful about superelevating curves on grades  

5) NO HIDDEN MAINLINE TRACKS!!!!!!!

 

[ns3010]

 Well, I AM starting over, and here is what I learned:

• DO NOT use E-Z Track. It is too expensive, and looks like crap. Go with cork and flextrack.
• Build the layout taller
• Do NOT use Bachmann locos. It is much better to go with higher-priced locos. Even Walthers Trainline, Atlas Trainman, and Athearn Blue Box will work better than Bachmann.

There's more that I didn't list and/or I can't think of at the moment.

[Zandoz]

I guess first and foremost would have been not buying nearly as much locomotives, rolling stock and structures until I actually had a layout to put them on.  I have hundreds if not thousands of dollars tied up in HO stuff that has, and will never be, put to use...but I can't bring myself to part with because "who knows, someday.....".

Second would have been to spend some of the money saved by #1 to actually build small do-able skill builder layouts...even if they were temporary "tail chasers".   30 years of arm-chairing and I don't want to count how many false starts on grand plans has met with health driven declining abilities to leave me near skill-less now that I'm actually building something.

[HaroldA]

Great questions and I have actually wondered about it myself.

 What I would change...

1.  Make wider aisles - especially between the layout and any immovable object -  like the basement wall,

2.  Build the layout with the idea of some day having to move it from one house to another.

3.  Start with DCC right away - took me a few years to see the light

4,  No duckunders -  I have the bruises to prove it

5.  Hang the lights, ceiling and insulate before ever laying one piece of track

6,  Read and plan more

7.  Don't second guess myself and understand that if it pleases me that's all that matters

8.  Don't wait for something to go on sale - especially if it's for the LS&I

What I wouldn't change

1,  Take the time to test and re-test everything.

2.  Remove any piece of rolling stock or a loco when and where it derails and find out why

3.  Use Kadee couplers, Shinohara turnouts, Digitrax DCC and continue to buy the best I can afford.

4.  Subscribe to MR - and, yes, the Dream Plan Build series.  I know they are pricey, maybe not always well done - but they have been a good source of information.

5.  Build rock solid benchwork, don't use nails and move a screw if it will be under anything.

6.  Take lots of pictures of the area I am modeling and use them as reference.

7.  Pay off the hobby credit card every month

8.  Remember to let out the dog - especially when she comes downstairs to get me

[jwhitten]

da_kraut

 Hello everybody,

it seems that there are a lot of new people in the forum as well as we all have different levels of experience.  So I thought it might be a good idea to ask the question as to what would you do if you had to start over again or are in the process of changing on your layout.  Also post the items you would not change if you were to start over again.

What are your experiences?

Frank

 

 

What a fabulous question!

For me, as tempting as it is to rattle off a list, it is really only one thing--

Get off my butt and start *doing stuff* sooner. I have missed out on years of Model Railroading, camaraderie and friendships by sitting on the sidelines and waiting for the "perfect conditions" to develop before digging-in. I will not make that mistake again.

 

[jwhitten]

jrcBoze

First, a dumb question -  'twhite' said:

"4: Make sure that the loco facilities for your helper districts are at the BOTTOM of the grade."

Why ? Is this a suggested model-railroad operational constraint only?

 

 

Prolly so your train stays *parked* while you're switching around the locos...

[jwhitten]

RRCanuck

I've wondered from time to time if it's possible to have both DC and DCC on the same layout...simply remove the DC locos and put DCC locos on the tracks, turn all of the DC blocks "ON", and switch over to DCC power?

 

 

Actually, if your layout is properly blocked for DC, you can do both. "DCC" is then simply another "cab" that can be switched to a block. Run all the other blocks the way you normally would have in straight DC mode. Or vise-versa, doesn't matter which way you do it as long as its separated. Depending on your decoders, your DCC locos might even run okay on the DC side. But of course the reverse will not be true.

[UP 4-12-2]

I would have negotiated with my wife for more basement R/W so that I could have (HO) 30 inch radius curves instead of Kato 26.375" radius with easements--but I was trying not to take too much of the basement so there'd be room for exercise, dancing along with a video (we someday want to do dance lessons), and the children's play area, etc.  It is an around the wall layout, folded dogbone, with a return loop at each end.

The primary reason being that most equipment looks better at 30" radius, and whether you build it or not, they will come--meaning either you or your guests may someday want to run brass models or other larger equipment than originally planned for.  I can see from current advertisements that even current brass 4-6-6-4's are being designed to operate on 30" radius, so if I had it to do over, I'd have taken a few more inches.  At 26" radius, there will be some brass locomotives I cannot run.

Even though I'm now firmly in the steam era, my tunnels were designed for double stack container trains, and even though they are on curves, the tunnels can accommodate most current RTR steam locomotives regardless of how severe the overhang might be.  The MTH 4-12-2 clears one tunnel portal by 1/8 of an inch even at full speed.  The MTH 4-6-6-4 is also good, and I'm sure the Athearn Big Boy I have coming will also clear!

I'm 41, this is the 3rd, and very possibly the last layout, of my life.

Best Regards--

John

[Mntneer]

zgardner18

Gone N-scale

 

 Ironic, because there are times I wish I had gone HO scale.  I worry I'm going to struggle with the N-scale details.

 I also wish I had more considered a walk around layout.

[zgardner18]

Gone N-scale

[UncBob]

 I would have gone with a double track  around the wall layout and a duck ( hinged if you didn't want to duck )under by the door

[da_kraut]

 Hello,

wanted to add more to my list of items that will or will not be done again in the next layout:

1, Staging yard on an incline (had to do it out of space restrictions)

2, The staging yard will have to be long enough for each track to be able to hold an entire full length freight

3, Con-Cor passenger cars will not be purchased again

4, Only Kadee couplers, even though the other brands create realistic pull aparts on the helix.

5, Build the lowest level of the layout first

6, Use a computer power supply for lights, but use inline fuses to restrict fault current to a max of 2 amps

7,  Use a roller test stand to lubricate the locomotives when they are running

8, Hopefully have a basement that is empty for the next layout.

9, Have biggest possible radius for the helix

10,  Build the gates that fold down which carry tracks across the entrance to prevent a duck under situation more solid

 I know this is an older post, but I like to revisit it occasionally for the new members.  This is a gold mine of great information thanks to the participation of the forum members.  All the experiences mentioned by all the forum members is the result of many many years of experience and as a result can save us all a great deal of time, money and aggravation.

Thank you everybody.

Frank 

 

 

[taildisk]

 Frank

Your point 2  -  Steel axles WILL BE attracted to under tie magnets, hence useKadee wheel-sets (they have a plastic axle)  or  any other wheelset with BRASS axles.

 One thing I say to a person starting and has not decided on a prototype  -  "Choose one with a bright colour scheme".  I started with the D&RGW because of the Colorado scenery.  But getting very good photos is a pain because of the black loco's, usually too much contrast in the image.

Robert

[Heartland Division CB&Q]

There are many good suggestions here.

I have started many layouts in my lifetime, and have torn them down before completion due to moving.

My present layout, therefore, is one that could possibly be moved without destroying it.

My layout is mostly "around the wall" and the benchwork is sectional. The construction design is based on the "domino construction" as reported in Model Railroader over the years. The artcles are by David Barrow (I may noy have spelled that correctly).

Next, I am building just a few sections at a time. I complete whole sections including scenery before going on to the next part of the layout.  That way, I have a portion of a layout that can be operated as is.

I agree with the "no duck unders" comments. Everything should be within an arms reach if at all possible.

[ouengr]

1. Figure out what railroad, either prototype of fictional, I want to model.

2. Figure out how much space I could realistically have for a layout.

3. Figure out whether to use the space to model a main line or a branch line.

4. Figure out what industries I actually want to model and invest time and effort in.

5. Make decisions about what I can use before and I buy it.

 

[markpierce]

twhite

4: Make sure that the loco facilities for your helper districts are at the BOTTOM of the grade. (not on my present one, but on my last one.  At least I learned THAT much!  )

Helper facilities at the TOP of the grade are what I'm planning to do and doubt that decision will be reversed.  In this instance, the top of the grade is where staging begins and shortly starts downgrade.  Helpers are added to trains just before going to staging, and helpers return from staging.  The purpose is to model helper services and movements although they aren't necessary for pulling the trains up a grade.  Result?  More operations and a reason to have more of those slow, compound, articulated locomotives (Mallets) on the layout.  Tom, you should sympathize with that result. ?

 So, how's 'bout them apples? 

Mark