analog kidIs there any way to paint styrene without the brush strokes showing? I know a airbrush, but i don't have $200+ to buy one.
Is there any way to paint styrene without the brush strokes showing? I know a airbrush, but i don't have $200+ to buy one.
Look at harbor freight (harborfreight.com). They've been selling airbrushes lately for $5-15 bucks each, depending on what kind you want. For about $50-60 bucks you can even get a little air compressor AND an airbrush all in one package. And the brushes aren't bad-- and they're certainly cheap enough to buy for learning purposes (or even toss-away purposes). And they have them in different sizes and stuff. I bought several of each. The larger ones I'm going to do my backdrop with. Another of the larger ones I'm going to be using in my workshop to spray polyurethane with.
analog kidIs there any way to paint styrene without the brush strokes showing?
I think a lot of people have covered it, but I'll chime in (gets the post count up! ).
First of all, many have said that airbrushes aren't that expensive. Sure, there are really expensive models out there, with high-grade, tricked out compressors, but you can get good results with a less expensive model.
That said, I brush paint my stuff. The secret, as others have said, is to CLEAN AND PRIME plastic models (I use Testors White or Gray spray primer) and SEAL wood models. Sand lightly with 400 grit sandpaper after priming.
THIN your paints. I use both PollyS and Testors Modelmaster Acryl paints, and the secret is to make sure they are thin, thin, thin. I use craft sticks cut into thirds lengthwise to stir paints with, and when you pull the stirring stick out, paint should run off the end in a continuous stream. If it drips, it's too thick. While you can use water, I find that 70% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol works better.
Go to an Art Supply Store (I shop at Michaels) and drop $25 for some decent SOFT bristle artists brushes. I'm partial to Loew-Cornell myself, but that's just me. Just make sure you don't grab a handfull of the cheapo, $1 brushes from the kids section. You should be paying about $8 for a good brush. I use fine shaders in sizes 2,4,6, and 10, with an 18/0 and 000 liners for detail work. Oh yeah, pick up a bottle of good brush cleaner and conditioner and take good care of your brushes. I'm always painting stuff, and I haven't bought a brush in about 3 years.
Unless you're trying to drybrush, make sure you have lots of paint on your brush. It will flow off the brush and cover your model with nary a stroke to be seen. Don't try to get every drop of paint out of your brush onto the model, and dip your brush in water every couple of minutes to keep things from drying out. A stiff bristle without a lot of paint on it is what causes brush strokes. This is, however, a GREAT weathering technique, as it simulates rust streaks or mud splatters very well.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
Take heart, you can buy a basic Badger 250 for less than $20 at any number of web retailers. They are a purely siphon brush but i you can do good work with one. I now use a Badger 200 and they can be had for less than $50 for the brush only. Add some for a "kit" that will include a propel can hook up and a few jars.
I don't recall having such a problem. Have you been washing/drying the surfaces and applying primer first?
Mark
Take a look at the $25 Badger model 250 airbrush. Not to good for detail painting, but it works great for even coats.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
salt water cowboyhey Allegheny! Were we on the same wavelength or what!?!...I finished my post and yours popped up! wow Matt
hey Allegheny! Were we on the same wavelength or what!?!...I finished my post and yours popped up! wow
Matt
Man you have some very severe problems if you think like me, maybe we should start a support group...........
wjstix As much as possible I use Tamiya spray can paints now. They go on in a nice even coat. Scalecoat's railroad spray cans are available at the LHS, but spray a little heavier but still get the job done...result a lot better than brush-painting. For airbrushing, I found that my expensive double-action / internal-mix airbrushes gummed up quite quickly using acrylic paint, so now I use a Testor's external-mix airbrush which cost about $24 IIRC. Not sure if they still make that exact one, but according to their website a similar Aztec A220 lists for $31.49. You would probably want to spend $140-150 at some point for a compressor - you can use the propellant cans but the cost of the cans will soon be more than what a compressor would cost. I've had my little compressor for nearly 20 years now and it still works fine.
As much as possible I use Tamiya spray can paints now. They go on in a nice even coat. Scalecoat's railroad spray cans are available at the LHS, but spray a little heavier but still get the job done...result a lot better than brush-painting.
For airbrushing, I found that my expensive double-action / internal-mix airbrushes gummed up quite quickly using acrylic paint, so now I use a Testor's external-mix airbrush which cost about $24 IIRC. Not sure if they still make that exact one, but according to their website a similar Aztec A220 lists for $31.49.
You would probably want to spend $140-150 at some point for a compressor - you can use the propellant cans but the cost of the cans will soon be more than what a compressor would cost. I've had my little compressor for nearly 20 years now and it still works fine.
These are some great points. I don't use acrylic paint for this very reason, but if I did I would buy an inexpenive external mix air brush. I know eveyone is going to acrylics, but I have yet to use them with the same results as solvent based paints.
I use Scalecoat for all my rolling stock painting. It is gloss so decals go on real nice with no "extra" paint step and thier flat and gloss clear can be mixed to get satin finishes for the "new" or "well maintained" look, or just use flat for a more weathered look.
For structure work Floquil is good because it is flat right out of the bottle.
I am amazed at the number of people who report using spray cans on this forum. I can"t even imagine taking the chance that a spray can would screw up or the idea of using "krylon" type paints as some have reported. model paints are different from "hardware store" paints. Model paints have finer pigments to allow for a thinner paint film to avoid filling in detail, etc.
One final thought for the OP, if you really injoy this hobby, figure out how to earn more money, you will need it!
Sheldon
Surface preparation. You have to get the surface clean and free of all oil, grease, mold parting compound, and finger prints. For plastic a wash in hot soapy water followed by a clean water rinse will do the trick. A trip thru the dishwasher is really good. Don't touch the plastic surfaces with your bare hands after washing.
Then, consider spray cans. Not difficult to get good results, easy cleanup. Between hardware stores and auto parts stores you can find a good selection of railroady colors. Readily available are auto primers, in red, light gray and dark gray. These dry extremely flat and will cover anything. The red makes an excellent box car red or brick red. Light gray is good for covered hoppers, dark gray works well on steam locomotives, and tarred roofs. Harder to find but very useful are cans of pullman green aka olive drab.
If you want to prime a surface for a topcoat, match the primer color to the top coat color. Light gray under light colors, dark gray under dark colors and red under red. If the color you want is only available in gloss, not to worry, a topcoat of Testor's DullCote will flatten things down nicely.
If you want to brush paint, try the solvent based Floquil paints. I have better luck with them than with the water based PollyS paints. Floquil primer settles to the bottom of the jar rather quickly, and the jars need a very thorough stirring and shaking before painting. Use a good art store brush. In difficult cases spray on a coat of auto primer and brush paint on top of it.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
Just make sure you give your styrene a coat of rattle can primer (light grey or white) before attempting to paint. Soft bristles as someone mentioned above should do the trick for ya. I tend to use more acrylics than oil based paints for ease of cleanup purposes. Just an FYI ...Michaels and some other craft stores seem to have a 40% or 50% off coupon out there on a regular basis. I bought my Badger airbrush that way and saved a ton of dough. Just make sure when you hit the checkout counter that you only have that one item you want as a discount. If you carry an airbrush and a .99 bottle of paint up to the cashier, the coupon will apply to the paint!
If you have a Micheals Crafts store or AC Moore near by you can pick up an air brush when they have their 50% off coupons for way under $50 and a good quality one to boot. While your there you may want to ask one of the people who work there who I have ofund to be fairly knowledgeable about why your getting brush stroks. From what I know you first need a good quality brush and secndly thin the paint to the proper consistancy. Thats why I like my air brushes so much no brush strokes.
I have found that the Tamiya paints brush on really well and there is very little evidence of brush stroke. It tends to even out fairly well and I believe others in the same genre of paints work similarly well.
Hope this helps,
Cheers from Australia,
Trevor www.xdford.digitalzones.com for your interest!
Using a brush with very soft bristles also helps quite a bit. Also make sure your paint isn't starting to dry, both in the bottle and on the styrene. I paint everything by hand and haven't had much of a problem with brush strokes showing.
Take a look at Walther's Flyer catalog. They usually have airbrushes for under $90.