Nice weathering! Can you describe the process a little bit?
the solution with the micro-tsunami is heat sinking. You will have to hit Radio Shack or a computer store and get heat sink compound. This is used right in your very own computer already and plenty of electronics. If the frame of the shay is metal you need to make sure the maximum body of the tsunami can touch it, then apply the heat sink compound. If the frame is not metal you need to fashion maybe some brass sheet, lather it on the tsunami and it, slice some opening in the frame and tinker the brass onto the underside of the frame, you could goo it down, or manage a screw down situation, I wouldnt superglue it.
I have heard of making a separate boxcar that always travels with a loco for the sound and other electronics, the tender is a good idea also, a water car.
Having a thought, since I'm not yet familiar with such crafty skillz as that, is there room for a micro in the coal bunker?
And where do you stick the speaker?
-Morgan
Here at Tony´s among others:
http://www.tonystrains.com/tonystips/2009/032809b.htm
Apparently is the Micro more sensitive about overheating, and with the fast-clocked processor they have I am not surprised.
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I was unaware that there was a problem with the Micro Tsunamis decoders in the Shays. Where was that information discussed?
Hi all, I have read a lot of stuff about the Bachmann 80 t. Shay, and the problems with the Micro Tsunamis. They are as I understand prone to overheat and malfunction due to the small enclosure in the tender and lying on the edge of the Amperage draw.
Here is what I did, I used a regular Tsunami (Tsu 1000 Light logging) and built a new tender shell in metalsheet (I used N.S), It wasn´t all that difficult and I ended up with a Tender that is 1/4" longer than the original. I could have made it a little shorter due to the lesser thickness of the material I used.
I had no problem installing the decoder now or the speaker (in the coal bunker, using the special baffle)
Here is a pic comparing it with the original:
Painted to match:
A closeup of the details and the hand-stamped rivets:
The completed Shay:
Now it works like a charm!
PS. I made the weathering before the DCC.install, just to be sure all worked OK.
I gladly answers all questions about this.