Thanks Wayne.
With my particular work, it will be a bit more difficult since I'm working with a smooth side car with no upper or lower lip of any sort (Mk4 coach). However I suspect it should be easier with the Budd coaches, since the fluting on the side does provide a lip similar to that on the heavyweight cars.
-Tim
If you want to make it look as if an existing window has been plated over, use sheet styrene to fashion a plug that will fit tightly into the opening. Cut it slightly oversized, then use a file and sandpaper to get the proper fit. The cars below are Rivarossi coaches, the first one pretty-well "stock", with only one window near the right end covered, while the second has most of the windows plated over - the upper part of the window has been covered with a continuous letter board, while the individual lower windows are plated over in a manner not meant to particularly disguise the former openings.
If you want to make it look as if there never was a window where one is now, I'd remove the window and the solid panels on either side of it, then make a new piece to fill the entire opening, using sheet styrene. Most heavyweight cars have a belt rail below the windows and a rivet strip above, which will help to hide the upper and lower joints, and you should be able to use a file or sandpaper to get a good tight joint with the window frames on either side of the new "plug".
Wayne
I've been working on modifying a few coaches recently, and one of the things I need to do is remove come windows that shouldn't be where they are. The specific coaches in this case are Hornby Mk-4's (in OO), but the problem also applies to a couple of HO scale Con-Cor and Athearn Budd coaches.
I started off by filing off all of the raised window trim. Now, I need to fill the hole itself. In the case of the Mk-4, the window glazing is recessed (about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch? It's quite noticeable, anyway) below the surface. My question really, is what is the best way to go around filling in these windows?
I have considered simply cutting out the whole area and replacing it with a piece of styrene cut to a firm fit (although that can of course be a challenge).
In the case of the Hornby cars, the window glazing is recessed well enough that I could conceivably fill the space on top of the glazing to bring the whole thing flush with the surface. Is there some sort of body putty I could use? I am not familiar with how putties work in modeling (how well do they stay? Do you have to seal them? Are they only for small gaps? What are the best ones?)
Really, any help here would be much appreciated. I'm sure I could work through it just fine on my own, but I thought I'd try to take advantage of the wealth of trial-and-error knowledge available here!
Thanks!