2 Helix Questions

[FJ and G]

1. How do you get inside of it? Do you leave a couple of feet at the bottom and then crawl underneath?

2. If you make your own notched wood vertical uprights to hold the curved wood track supports, how do you put all the levels of the helix into the notches without the whole thing collapsing; or, do you simply build up each helix loop separately?

Kinda hard to ask the second question without drawing diagrams and stuff but I hope this makes sense. I'm going to work on a helix this weekend and just needed this info.

Thanks

Dave Vergun

[wp8thsub]

QUOTE: Originally posted by FJ and G
1. How do you get inside of it? Do you leave a couple of feet at the bottom and then crawl underneath?

I had two helixes on my last layout. The base benchwork level was 36" and the helixes were built on top of the benchwork along with all of the other roadbed, so there was 36" clearance under each helix for duck-under access.

QUOTE: 2. If you make your own notched wood vertical uprights to hold the curved wood track supports, how do you put all the levels of the helix into the notches without the whole thing collapsing; or, do you simply build up each helix loop separately?

I used threaded rods, which are easy because you just pre-drill holes in the roadbed to fit onto the rods and assemble each level after the track is finished on the previous one. If you're using the notched supports, life can be tougher. One solution is to start with supports on the inside or outside of the helix only (but not both) so you can add more levels without having to slip the roadbed into opposing sets of notches after the supports are up. You can add the remaining notched supports on the opposite side of the roadbed after all the levels are in place. Another method is to use separate wood blocks to space each level atop the last.

[ClinchValleySD40]

Crawl under.

Easiest method for building a helix (HO scale), cut a 1x4 into pieces about 3 or 4 inches. After you have the first turn of the helix built, just glue (or glue/screw) the pieces to the outside and inside of the helix. Only requires the roadbed to be a couple inches extra wide. All levels are automatically at the exact same level, no need to adjust rods or such.

[FJ and G]

Thanks for your inputs guys; I'll start building this weekend. I noticed that every helix looks a bit different. Now I just have to decide if I'm going to use one track or two. I thought about superelevating the curves but one fellow said that a negative superelevation (superelevating it in reverse) could help prevent stringlining. Maybe I'll compromise and not superelevate in either direction.

Dave

[dknelson]

Well the easiest way to build a helix is to buy one -- the EasyHelix from Trainstyles. They advertise in MR and MRP
Dave Nelson

[FJ and G]

That takes all the fun out of building it and custom-designing your own and problem solving, Dave.

[ndbprr]

I never had one but gave it five years of thought. I would have used the threaded rods with double nuts and washers on both sides of the wood so it could be adjusted if needed. I was also going to hang it from the floor joists above for the very reason of getting inside of it. That way it would start at 42" and I could get in there somehow.

[DMNolan]

Here is are links to two under construction photos I took of my double track helix. It is finished now. It is large, 7 feet across. I didn't use the treaded rods this time. I used 1x4" cut in 5 inch lenghts and turned on their side. I cut the plywood so that 4 pecies made a turn. I cut the first one a bit long so the seams don't all match up. The helix is 3 1/2 turns now to give me almost a foot of separation between the levels. The trick to using the block on the side method, is to get your first circle to an even grade. the other circles will be even since you will climb at a constant rate. Also, when you put down a turn section, you will need to install your blocks first, or you will have to attch them from the bottom, which is harder. I hope my explination is not too confusing. i can post some finshed photos when I get home if that would help.

My helix is about 26" off the ground. I can get under it for maintenace, if needed and can stand up in the middle as needed.

[FJ and G]

Thanks for all your help & suggestions and Elliot too, who answered similar questions on the CTT forum.

Armed with all of this knowledge and an exploding head, I will be off now to work on my giant helix over the weekend.

If it gets screwed up because of all of your advice, I'll be back to kick butt and take names. :-) :-(

[nfmisso]

The hard part with Mark's method is doing the vertical easements at the top and bottom, but otherwise it is simpler. The threaded rod approach makes the easements easy, but requires adjustments all the way along. Another advantage is that if your helix turns out to be too steep or not steep enough, the rods are easily adjusted.

Use "Fender" washers on the bottom side of the roadbed.

Or you can use plumbers strapping (3/4" wide metal with 1/4" hole every inch) to support EZ track or similar track with integral roadbed, with the threaded rods. A bit expensive, but fast.

[Budliner]

well in a small space like my room, it will be nice to have the helix extend out for a run say to a outside loop in the middle someplace then back to the helix as its a small layout and its nice to see the train come out for a veiw and not just stay inside hidden from view or to a switch if you see my point


K-[B)]