I've made my own transition joiners by taking a standard joiner and grinding out the middle of the top with a dremel motor tool. Then you can bend a step into the joiner.
What I like about this method is the cost is the same as a standard joiner, and the rails are held in place aligned top for top and inside edges while I solder it in place.
Cheers.
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
I've made numerous rail-size transitions on my layout by soldering the smaller rail on top of a flattened joiner for the larger rail size, and that's the method I prefer. It's easy to do anywhere, even between the turnouts of a crossover, where many of my transitions occur.
I have nothing against transition joiners, but I already have stocks of joiners for code 83, 70, and 55 rail. I'd just as soon not have to also keep supplies of a couple sizes of transition joiners.
So long,
Andy
Andy Sperandeo MODEL RAILROADER Magazine
Medina1128 I wasted my money on those transitional joiners once. I found that flattening the joiner at one end and use that end under the code 83 rail. Solder the rail to it, making sure to keep the ends in alignment.
I wasted my money on those transitional joiners once. I found that flattening the joiner at one end and use that end under the code 83 rail. Solder the rail to it, making sure to keep the ends in alignment.
I've used the transition joiners and not had a problem with them. They seemed to work okay for me.
To each their own, but what specific objection do you have to this product?
Since I'm still building in the netherworld (aka hidden staging and thoroughfare trackage) I test-laid one length of Atlas code 83 concrete-tie flex between lengths of Atlas Code 100. Since the ties under the code 83 are .017" thicker than those under the code 100 the railheads ended up dead level. I simply joined them with Atlas universal rail joiners, then buried them under flat steel (lengths of heavy angle iron) until the caulk set up. Nothing special was done to the joiners.
There is no detectable offset, either horizontal or vertical, at the joints, one of which is on a tangent and the other on a 610mm (24 inch) radius curve. My derailment-prone test train can back through that line at track speed in either direction without a hiccup.
If using other products, your results may vary.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Whenever I have mis-matched rails, I join them with any usable joiners, but I use a set of needle-nosed pliers to kink the joiner by prying on the two adjacent rail ends so that the joiner changes shape to bring the rail tops to the same height. I then solder the joiner. If necessary, I slide cardstock under any high ties that result, or shove more dirt/ballast under them. Works very nicely.
I am currently at that exact stage in my layout concerning a hidden staging yard. Do I re-use old code 100 turnouts and purchase some code 100 flex track for the hidden staging yard I already have 4 of the Walthers transition track or do I jsut keep things simple and use code 83? I know of several big time railroads who have used code 100 not only in their hidden stagin yards but on their entire railroad. In my coase it's just going to come down to a case of economics. I have tons of code 100 turnouts and track so I just need to do a comparrion of what I have in code 100 vs what I have and will need in code 83.
I personaly would not recomend the transition joiners but would go with the tracks form Walthers and absolutle solder all your connections.
Medina1128I wasted my money on those transitional joiners once. I found that flattening the joiner at one end and use that end under the code 83 rail. Solder the rail to it, making sure to keep the ends in alignment.
Yes, that's the best way in MHO. Solder the entire thing and don't forget to touch the rail ends (top and inside) with a jewelers file before joining. If it's not Atlas code 83, you can shim up the smaller track with cardstock or styrene or even strips of masking tape.
The mind is like a parachute. It works better when it's open. www.stremy.net
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
I purchased one of the Walthers transition tracks. Quite pricey, I thought. I chose to simply file the code 100 in the hidden staging tracks where it met the code 83. I created a 3 inch transition and have had no porblems.
You don't say what track you're using, but if you are using Atlas products they sell a transition rail joiner for connecting code 100 to code 83. There is not a few thousandths difference with the Atlas products because they've made the ties thicker on the code 83 so that the tops of the rails end up at the same height.
This has probably been discussed a hundred times and I know Walthers sells a transition track (currently out of stock) but what is the best way to transition between the code 83 to code 100 - or don't those few thousandths make any difference,
H
There's never time to do it right, but always time to do it over.....