Railandsail, thanks for bringing it back up!
Darth, my first take led me to believe that you powered the loco thru the drivers. Why, theres no evidence of a drive or gears in that tender. Well, I was blown away when I saw the open tender!!!!
Now, when someone shouts that they made a masterpiece, they better have something substantial to show for it. You knocked OUT OF THE PARK! I like that you kept it "Chattanooga" looking enough to know it's origin, instead of burying it's identity. I kinda have a soft spot for those, but not that goofy drive they had.
And Then I noticed the original post date. I was MIA on model RR around then, I guess. Heres a belated huge thumbs up! Dan
railandsail Hi Darth, Just found this discussion via a link another gentleman added to a discussion i started dealing with this same 'tender pusher/helper' subject. You certainly did a marvelous job. Did you ever tackle a similar project?
Hi Darth,
Just found this discussion via a link another gentleman added to a discussion i started dealing with this same 'tender pusher/helper' subject. You certainly did a marvelous job.
Did you ever tackle a similar project?
I have, but not that's ready to be shown yet.
Hard to believe it's already been 12 years since this project was started!
_________________________________________________________________
Brian
My Layout Plan
Interesting new Plan Consideration
Excellent work! Makes me nostalgic for mine sitting wrapped in old news paper in the attic, loved and hated it all at the same time as a kid.
Modeling the fictional B&M Dowe, NH branch in the early 50's.
I guess you never know what you'll find! I wonder if they run alright since they're brand new? Although, I'm sure mine still runs better.
Believe it or not, my local hobby store found two of these locomotives in their old stock. Both are brand new and still sealed in plastic.
Excellent work Darth! Good to see it completed! This engine is far to be an eyesore with some decent paint and decals. Probably a good base for kitbashing freelanced project or roads.
Matt
Proudly modelling the Quebec Railway Light & Power Co since 1997.
http://www.hedley-junction.blogspot.com
http://www.harlem-station.blogspot.com
I've painted handrails after mounting before, but because I have to be more careful, I'll often find spots I missed later on, or sometimes I'll miss and paint something I don't want. With the handrails off, I can easily get full coverage without the worry of missing a spot or painting the wrong part by accident. It's also easier to accurately mask with the handrails off.
We all have our preferences and methods that work best for us. This one works best for me, so I stick with it now.
Nice work on both the re-build and the paint, Darth, but I'm curious as to why you remove the handrails for painting. In the case of a loco where the smokebox is a different colour than the boiler barrel (almost all locos, unless they have a lagged smokebox), it would seem to be easier to install them before painting, then brush paint them after the the airbrushed colours have been applied. In most cases, the handrails are well clear of the boiler/smokebox and there's usually a clear demarcation between the base of the stanchions and their mounting surface. For those with less steady hands, a piece of paper slipped beneath the handrail serves adequately to protect from unwanted errors.
Wayne
Thanks, Darth!
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I used Scalecoat II Black, which has a gloss finish. I did use my airbrush to paint it, and the results with Scalecoat are always excellent.
Darth,
VERY nice job on the 2-8-0. A couple of questions:
Thanks...
Thanks everyone.
ChadLRyan, I actually assembled the handrails before painting them. Before I do any painting at all, I assemble them on the boiler by gluing the wire into the stanchions (I use solder for metal kits), very carefully remove them to avoid breaking the bonds, paint them separate from the model, and then just as carefully reassemble them to the boiler (after I'm done painting it) and glue them in place. Some steam engines may be a little too complex for this process, but I've found it works well for most.
Wow, that is some great re-assembly, as I could not tread any length of grab wire through a ball stud without causing a major paint shear-off! I even try to countersinking the studs to allow easier feeding! Whatever your talent, keep it up! I'll try be be a cleaner 'Hack' & be a better modeler someday!!!!
Nice work Dude! Kudos!
Excellent paint job!
I assembled the handrails on the engine (without gluing them to the boiler), and then I removed them and painted them separate. Then I glued the handrails on and gave the whole thing a dull coat. I do the same for almost all my custom painted steam engines now, and it seems to work pretty well.
What a difference; excellent job! Oh, and thanks for the valve gear credit... I'd totally forgotten I sent that to you.
What paint and prep do you use to get the paint to stay on the handrails?
Nelson
Ex-Southern 385 Being Hoisted
A master work Darth!
Well done!
Remember its your railroad
Allan
Track to the BRVRR Website: http://www.brvrr.com/
All finished!!!
Wow, this came sooner than I thought! And it turned out great!
I'm pretty sure the NYC never had a 2-8-0 like this one, but the whole engine's fantasy anyway, right?
It sure is one smooth runner now! And it looks pretty good too. I ended up taking 2oz. of lead back out of the tender, because it was just a little too much for the small motor. It's still got pretty good traction, and it should last a LOT longer than a Power-Torque drive!
VIDEO HERE!!
cudaken Well, we going to have to wait another 2 years for a up date Darth? Ken
Well, we going to have to wait another 2 years for a up date Darth?
Ken
Nope, because I'm giving one right now.
No picture this time, but I've finished airbrushing Scalecoat II black over the entire thing. The finish is excellent, as is typical of Scalecoat, and I should be able to add the rest of the details, handrails, and decals tomorrow. I may have it done sooner than I expected at this rate!
I hate Rust
BRVRR It runs but is in dire need of traction tires and a whole bunch of tender loving care.
It runs but is in dire need of traction tires and a whole bunch of tender loving care.
You get the pun of the week award.
A great bit of modeling and an amazing display of patience.
I have, or rather my grandson has, one of the Chattanooga Cho Chos that you modified.
It runs but is in dire need of traction tires and a whole bunch of tender loving care. If we ever do anything with it it will likely be the switcher drive swap.
Again, great modeling.
That is great man!!!
I am working over a TYCO 2-6-2 Prairie myself..
Why, well it was the first one my Grandpa got me in the early '70's
So it is special, special enough to receive PSC parts & what not.
Love what you have done on your model!! It is inspiring!!
SteamFreak So what's 2 years to finish a project? .
So what's 2 years to finish a project? .
Well said. Better take your time than botch the job and don't enjoy the project.
That said, it's always a treat to see you tweaking these classic little engines!
Keep up the good work!
Matt ;-)
So what's 2 years to finish a project?
I've noticed that most of these have smokebox areas that have become very brittle. I guess the smoke fluid they used wasn't plastic friendly, and after 30 years or more of it attacking the plastic you get castings that fracture easily, making working with and kitbashing them even more frustrating. Some thin putty ought to hide the crack, although it's harder to sand in the rivet area.
GET BACK TO WORK YOU SLACKER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yes, this has definitely been sitting on the workbench for two years for absolutely no good reason!! Why haven't I finished it yet!?
I'm finally back to work on the Chattanooga. I finished making the handrails yesterday, and I just finished airbrushing the smokebox and firebox today.
There's a decent crack going down the smokebox near the top, which I thought I'd fixed better. Oh well, I'll just have to find a way to make it less noticable.
Instead of my usual mix of Floquil "Graphite" and Scalecoat II "MOW Gray", I decided to use Testors "Steel". I did some comparison, and although it's lighter, it's awfully close in tone and sparkle to the graphite commonly used by manufacturers (and it's almost identicle to what's used on D&RGW prototypes in pictures). In a day or two, I'll airbrush the black paint over the rest of it. I intend to have this thing finished by the end of the week!!
Darth awsome job. Ive got a couple of thoose tyco 2-8-0 lying around, a parts list and some detailed instructions would be great lol. But seriously great job keep up the good work and I look foward to new pics.
Dick Truesdale did all the work for me, ultimately, on this dual-powered locomotive. It is a proto-freelanced model based on a Southern Rwy 2-8-2+2-8-0 coal-fired duplex locomotive.