Recently I've attempted to build a Central Valley Truss Bridge kit. I'm still a novice when it comes to kit construction, and this was my first kit bash. Needless to say, I learned a lot. Earlier this week I was writing a post for my blog and tried to come up with 5 tips I would give a fellow beginner who was just starting out with kit construction.
Here's the list I came up with:
LooshiPaint the plastic pieces
Paint makes a tremendous difference in the looks of a model. Even if the plastic is molded in the right color it wants a coat of paint to kill the shiny plastic gloss.
David Starr www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
"Layout all the parts before you start gluing"
Do you mean test fit w/ this step? Because I find that very important, as it may show where a little sanding and filing may save a whole lot of patching, gluing, cutting and clamping (then again, if the kit is really bad anyway, you may not have any choice but to patch, cut, clamp etc.).
amen. now to elaborate on the tools. i have been in this hobby over 45 years and i found that i could do my best work only with the proper, high quality tools. as you go, you will have opportunities to aquire decent equipment to work with and it will make life so much easier. for instance, i am sure there are some guys out there still trying to cut flex track with a two dollar hack saw from walmart. no wonder there is a bit of frustration and resistance among newbies to use flex track. a good pair of rail nippers will probably cost you 10-30 bucks depending on the brand and where you buy them. but when properly cared for they will last a lifetime. there have been several articles in the model magazines about tools necessary for this hobby. read them and learn. for example, an inexpensive goose neck lamp on your work desk will pay for itself in no time. without good lighting, no amount of magnification will help. maybe instead of another locomotive you really don't have room for, invest in a miniature drill press or dremel tool. overall, proper high quality tools make the hobby a lot more fun and help to eliminate the frustration that keeps so many of us from completing our projects. to paraphrase homer simpson, without the right tools trying becomes the first step on the road to failure.
grizlump
chutton01"Layout all the parts before you start gluing" Do you mean test fit w/ this step? Because I find that very important, as it may show where a little sanding and filing may save a whole lot of patching, gluing, cutting and clamping (then again, if the kit is really bad anyway, you may not have any choice but to patch, cut, clamp etc.).
Test fitting definitely falls under this step. I was thinking more along the lines of making sure you have enough pieces. Even if the manufacturer includes the proper amount of pieces, if you use them improperly or you use a piece for a step it wasn't designed for then you may find yourself running out of something you need later.
I elaborated on this some more on my blog, but I think test fitting is an important part of the process.
I also agree with what was said about tools. I still have many more tools to get, but just adding simple things like a file or a saw have really done wonders for my model building skills.
Another thing about files. Have two files on hand. You have one file for plastics and a the other file for metals. Dont cross use them, because the metal file will destroy the plastic much quicker with the little metal particals still stuck to the file. So 2 files with different colors on the handles to separate the two.
Also for one of the expensive Z track cutters head to your friendly Wally World. Go to the crafting section and pick up a imatation Z track cutters for about $7.00 dollars compaired to 15-30 dollars. The only difference is the handle length. The cutters sold at Wally World were shorter than the Z cutters. And also with these keep the track cutters separtrate from the wire cutters. When cutting different sizes of wires you will come in contact with different hardness of the wires. You cant judge the pressure that you will put on the handles, thus you will find notches in the tip of the cutters. If you use the same cutters that you used for cutting wires on that new piece of Flex track, you will not get a clean cut on the track. So 2 cutters also, one for track and one cutter for wires.
Another thing when cutting track. Cut the track Horazontal from the track. This way you will get a cleaner cut and wont have trouble ith crushed railheads. Just my .02 cents; well ok .50 cents! KB
Co-owner of the proposed CT River Valley RR (HO scale) http://home.comcast.net/~docinct/CTRiverValleyRR/
Everytime I get in a hurry ... there's this one lil place the paint is'nt quite set ... of course I have to lift it to check out the paint job .... BAM ... there's a fingerprint .... ... LOL .
Watching paint dry is always a log of fun
Dremel tool?
I think that should be the second tool a modeler should buy, first being an Exacto knife. It is amazing how many things you can do with a Dremel tool, and I don't even have all of the attachments that they make.
Don't skimp on hobby knife blades! Dull blades don't work very well. Micro Mark and others offer packages of 100 #11 blades for X-Acto knives for around $12.00. On projects, change blades frequently!
I have several knives on the go all the time. One with new blade, and when it starts to dull I place its blade in holder #2. I use #2 for the rough stuff, scraping, etc. The larger X-Acto blades with the soft rubber handles are better to work with than the small aluminum handles.
Bob Boudreau
CANADA
Visit my model railroad photography website: http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/
Test fitting parts is a must.
Follow the assembly sequence, the order of assembly is most important. Yes after figuring out the subassemblies, you can work on those. This is esspecially true if they need to be done for airbrushing same paint colors etc.
Never remove parts from a sprue until you are ready to dry fit and complete that assembly. This is much more critical on kits w/ extensive pieces that appear similar.
An example is the ME viaduct, there are many of the parts that appear identical, however, they are not interchangable. Chasing loose parts and all the trial fits to get it right can be a real pain.
Paint those small parts on the sprue. It may be nec. to scrape paint off joints for the best penetrating bond.
Instead of constantly changing out the #11 blade, I will dress the edge/ tip on a honing stone. It is a must to use a new blade for despruing those extremely delicate pcs.(brake parts, air lines, rail/ stanchions etc)
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I'll offer one "tools" suggestion: Buy good quality artists brushes. Expect to pay about $3-$7 each. It seems pricy for a stick with hair on one end, but the difference it makes is HUGE. If you take care of them they will last as long as a dremel tool (or longer).
Phil, I'm not a rocket scientist; they are my students.
Doc in CTTake your time (and breaks) - this is a "life-long" HOBBY
I heartily second this! Patience is critical to success.
I recently built a house with 20 exterior wall sections. I glued the walls into sub-assemblies, then assemblies of sub-assemblies, then glued those assemblies together. It took 3 evenings, but I'm VERY pleased with the results.
Hi!
I've been a model builder and model railroader since the mid-'50s. I started building models with a razor blade, tube of glue, and a dozen or so bottle of "model paint". Today, however, I am fortunate to have all the "right" tools and supplies, a whole lot of experience, and a hobby room in which to build the models.
All that being said, I do have some pointers for the beginner......
- Building a decent model is not a one day affair. Time must be taken to insure glued parts have set, decals are solidly affixed, and paint is thoroughly dry. I find a craftsman car kit can take several days to finish, and believe me, it is often a real challenge for me to follow my own advice.
- Quality tools are more expensive, but with care will last for a very long time.
- With some exceptions, I paint the entire model (mostly with flat finish). And while I am not a big fan of weathering, I find the light weathering of trucks and couplers makes a nice difference.
- There are very few things in the "real world" that are shiny and glossy. A light spray of Dull-Cote on a finished model really is a good touch.
- As you build more and more models, you will do a better job. Experience does count (for the most part), and typically your latest models will reflect that. Don't expect to build museum quality models early on, but do give it your best. Oh, and on the other hand, even those of us that have built models for many years still come up with a bad one now and again. It happens, and I know of what I speak!
ENJOY,
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Some great tips here. In my 50 or so years in the hobby I have a large number of tools. I use more than just number 11 blades , there are a number available . Chisel type are a must to me. A pin vise with a good set of numbered drills is high on my list of regularly used tools. If you pre paint the locating holes can get clogged with paint. Gently re drill to clear them. I have a metal gauge with all of the numbered drill sizes in it, invaluable when trying to get the right size bit. I got it at tool supply place in Toronto and although expensive ($20 or so) I have used it many times.
Go Slow, as stated elsewhere the hobby is not a race. Now if I could just follow that advise.
Dave
(chuckling) Please don't anyone take this the wrong way. I am so pleased that many of you say that you have a hard time slowing down. I am happy to see I am not alone. That is probably the A number one piece of advice anyone can give a beginner. It cannot be repeated enough! Many a good model has been a disappointment because of getting in a hurry at my house.
Test fit and test fit. It's another one that can't hurt to repeat. Nothings worse than a gap or off set wall. (oh I'm sure others will disagree as to the worst)
Glue sparingly. Glue itself is brittle and will not last. It needs to be applied so it bonds the plastic and doesn't bond to itself. I am trying to get used to the liquid brush applied type it is much less messy and gloppy if some shows.
The cost of a model doesn't necessarily have a definite bearing on the outcome. I have seen some inexpensive snap models that after a good assembly, paint and weathering looks as good as a very expensive kit. Just takes patience and a little imagination. (and maybe a few extra parts)
Don't throw any extra parts away. Some kits, to save manufacturing costs, share some parts. They have parts that aren't used on your kit. Put these in your spare parts box. They come in handy for kit bashing and scratch building which you undoubtedly will try. The same goes for sprue.
If something doesn't turn out right then don't scrap the model. Often you can repair or modify the kit to be a great model. If you don't feel that you can, put it off to the side. As your experience increases you'll be surprised at what you can "fix"
And finally (yeah right) as was said before, and I apologize for not recalling who, This is not a weekend hobby and unless you've already set up a photo shoot with a magazine, take your time. Though I can hardly wait to see the finished project, the journey is half most of the fun.
Todd
Central Illinoyz
In order to keep my position as Master and Supreme Ruler of the House, I don't argue with my wife.
I'm a small town boy. A product of two people from even smaller towns. I don’t talk on topic….. I just talk.
A couple of thoughts on painting - I'm talking about structures here like the Cornerstone or DPM type - I always spray paint them first, usually with a primer and then a suitable brick or wooden siding colour. The spray cans that you can get from the hardware store are far cheaper than the Testors minicans. There is a good selection of dull colours and you can mask off walls or widows and doors if you want to paint them a different colour. You now have a good base for painting trim areas with low cost acrylic paints. I have found that using a special brush designed for acrylics works much better that a sable aritsts brushes [for example]. The acrylic brush I use is white nylon from Loew Cornell - you can find these in Michaels and they are not expensive! What I find with these brushes is that they clean easily in water and you have to give them a swirl in a cup of water every 5 minutes or so, so as not to let the acrylic paint dry on the brush. Then dry on a paper towel. I have found the artists brush more difficult to clean and they can get ruined with dried paint after a few uses. After finishing the model, I give it a wash with diluted acrylic paint and leave the surface horizontal for about an hour for the paint to dry. The diluted paint fills up the mortar lines between the bricks. Depending on the building, I may use powdered pastels for weathering as a final touch. Here is 2 of my most recent projects - they are 2 of the Cornerstone Merchant Rows. I haven't put the business signs on them yet. Hope this helps. I realize that everyone has developed their own techniques and you have to find the one that works for you.
Alan
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Yikes!! I need help in tips for posting images. I don't know how I always get 2 copies. Here's is what I do.
Someone please tell me what I doing wrong here. Do I not need to copy and paste? Just click the bottom box in the Photobucket?
Thanks for any feedback.
I'm in the same situation as Looshi. Kitbashing a Walthers double track through bridge. Yes, I did not read the directions for one of the steps, luckily, no serious results. My additional suggestion is to make jigs/fixtures as necessary to ensure accurate modification, alignment and assembly of the parts. The jigs/fixtures are also useful for repeated cutting/gluing and other operations. Used pressed particle board(known I suppose by other names) purchased at HD in various thicknesses (24" X 48"). Make sure the piece you buy is flat. Finally,test the method before using actual parts.
JEB
Manchester NH
My tips:
Wear eye protection when using power tools.
When you're tired, quit.
Good lighting is a must.
A stable work surface helps a lot.
A comfortable chair is a big plus.
Enjoy
Paul