I Can't Make a Decision on Wheelsets....Help!

[ClinchValleySD40]

Your problem is not a bad thing, it's a very good thing. I know it's frustrating to keep cars from rolling in places, but having your cars that free rolling is a very very good thing.
If you decide to switch back and want to sell the IM's and P2K's, let me know.

Bristles (brown/tan if you can find them) stuck between the rails where you want to spot a car look like dead grass and work fairly well. You only need to use them where you're having trouble holding cars on sidings. For the yards, you should fix the track so it is flat, no way you want a yard on a hill or you'll have to use the hat pin idea.

[mondotrains]

You asked about the cost of 100 Intermountain wheelsets. I found them on the internet at $50.00 for 100 which works out to $6.00 for 12....just a little more than mail order prices for Kadees and Proto.

Thanks,
Mondo

QUOTE: Originally posted by Fergmiester

HELLO!

Youz guys are missing a perfect opportunity to add a little realism to your layout!

You're talking pins and clear bristles etc. Look at some pictures of sidings and you'll see clumps of grass, straw, whatever growing everywhere throught the middle of the track. If you don't like that idea you could try stong magnets under the track this will keep any car with metal (with iron) in place.

Another option is to stick shims under the rails to elevate causing a slight hump in the spot you want the car not to pass.

just my thoughts

Ps how much does a 100 intermountain wheels cost anyway?

[Fergmiester]

HELLO!

Youz guys are missing a perfect opportunity to add a little realism to your layout!

You're talking pins and clear bristles etc. Look at some pictures of sidings and you'll see clumps of grass, straw, whatever growing everywhere throught the middle of the track. If you don't like that idea you could try stong magnets under the track this will keep any car with metal (with iron) in place.

Another option is to stick shims under the rails to elevate causing a slight hump in the spot you want the car not to pass.

just my thoughts

Ps how much does a 100 intermountain wheels cost anyway?

[Jetrock]

You could always put some books under one side of your layout to level things out!

[IRONROOSTER]

You could use different solutions in different places. 1. Where possible, relay track so it's flat where you want to spot cars (or even slightly downhill to a bumper). 2. Use clear bristles as above. 3. For mainline or anywhere you don't want bristles mount a wire that raises and lowers between the rail using a choke rod.
4. Use 3 free rolling axles and 1 not so free rolling axle on each car; and then do one of the others where that isn't sufficient.
Enjoy
Paul

[mondotrains]

Wouldn't it be kind of tedious to mount these bristles everywhere I have a slight grade, including sidings?

Thanks,
Mondo

QUOTE: Originally posted by robengland

I've also seen where folk permanently mount a few clear plastic bristles sticking up between the rails where cars are spotted, designed so passing rolling stock is unaffected but just enough resistance to stop a stationary car from getting started

[robengland]

I've also seen where folk permanently mount a few clear plastic bristles sticking up between the rails where cars are spotted, designed so passing rolling stock is unaffected but just enough resistance to stop a stationary car from getting started

[orsonroy]

Most of my layout is on a slight grade (that's what I get for building a three level nolix), so I have this rolling problem all the time. I've "solved" the problem by keeping a stock of quilting pins with blue heads handy. Once I park a piece of rolling stock, I stick one of the pins into the roadbed to act as a brake. If you squint really hard, it sort of looks like a blue flag, so it's close enough for me (and I just found a color pic of freight cars in 1942 parked, all with blue flags on them, so I know they're OK for my 1950 layout!)

If it's stupid but it works, it isn't stupid!

[Anonymous]

Your situation is not totally unexpected, it just a long time to get here.
It's a first and I too will wait for the recommendation of the pros.

Perhaps brakie. H E L P!

One could wrap a piece of door bell wire around the axle(like a wiper) at one end
and then attached the other end to the floor.

Twist the axle end piece tight until to get a slower roll ???????

[mondotrains]

I haven't heard yet from any guys who are fond of Kadee wheelsets. Where are you?
I'd really like to hear from you.

Well guys,
I'm stuck in the mud and need help to get out! It's tough being an obsessive-compulsive person and a little too analytical but I'm sure I'm not alone!

My first posting about the subject of "Replacement Metal Wheelsets" asked for input regarding the most popular brands. Per the over 55 replies, it seems that while many people use Proto 2000's, it's primarily because of the price. After trying some Proto's, they seem to be as free-rolling as Intermountains. One guy who said he equipped his 450 cars with Proto's said in an email reply that if the price were the same, he would opt for Intermountains.

Anyway, I bought 100 Intermountain wheelsets because so many guys mentioned their "free-rolling" quality and have been trying them out. They look good and they are definitely very free-rolling. I also like the additional weight that their metal axles provide (an extra half-ounce).

Now I have another problem. The Intermountains are so slick that in the several spots on my layout where the track is not perfectly flat, a single car will tend to roll. I even have a spot in my yard where a single car will roll out of the yard track and foul a turnout. One guy had mentioned that you could "use a pin" under the wheels to keep them from rolling. I don't think I want to deal with that.

So, I'm kind of back to the beginning. I resisted buying Intermountains before because I was concerned that they would be so slick they will roll when I don't want them to. Now I realize my fear was very well founded. I have experienced a situation where I'm trying to spot a car on a siding after setting the coupler in "delayed action" and after pushing the car into the siding, the car rolls back toward the engine and recouples.

Bottom-line: I may have to go back to Kadee wheels because they are definitely slick enough, especially after honing out the truck journals with the Reboxx tool which so many folks have suggested . While I was disappointed originally with the Kadees because the brown coating dirtied my track, at the suggestion of one guy, I've wire-brushed the wheel treads and flanges with my Dremel and hence, the brown coating is gone. Now I only have to deal with a little of the zinc oxide from the Kadees depositing on my track, which I don't think will be a big problem.

I'd appreciate any help you folks can provide to help me finalize my decision. If some of you guys are happy with Kadees, I'd like to hear from you. Most of the negatives I heard about Kadees had to deal with them being a little tight in the truck journals, however, the Reboxx tool corrected that. One guy said he had problems with premature wear with the Kadees, but I can't imagine I'll run my cars so much that the Kadees will wear out.

I don't mean to belabor this issue, but I'm planning to buy metal wheelsets for over 500 cars which will cost quite a few bucks.

Thank you in advance.
Mondo