Converting a Trix 2-8-2 front coupler

[tstage]

Has anyone here converted the non-working front coupler that comes with the Trix 2-8-2 Mike over to a "working" coupler?

According to the Kadee Coupler Conversion Chart, a #33, #58, or #78 coupler can be used.  However, I have a #58 coupler but the shank end will not pass through the coupler slot because it's too wide.  I'm guessing that I'll also have to drill out and tap a hole to secure a coupler box.

I would like to do at least one conversion so that I can double-head the two [Edit: my two Trix Mikes] together.  Thanks for the help...

Tom

[selector]

WHAATTT?   TWO?!!!  You've been holding out on me, Tom.  You have two Trix Mikes, or do you mean the Trix and another engine?

Sorry, I can't help with the problem, but I will pay attention because I will want to convert mine in time.

-Crandell

[tstage]

selector

WHAATTT?   TWO?!!!  You've been holding out on me, Tom.  You have two Trix Mikes, or do you mean the Trix and another engine?

Crandell,

Yep - Two Trix Mikes!  I just picked up the other NYC Mike (#1890) off eBay late Wednesday for a very good price.  And it was at my doorstep late Saturday afternoon.

Hopefully someone will chime in because I've been all over the Net and haven't found a lick about converting the front coupler, other than what Kadee says will fit.

Tom

[tewahipounamu]

Tom,

I couldn't find any information on the Kadee site for the Trix and unfortunately, on the Trix website there are no drawings of the Mikado. However, on the Marklin site there is one for their Mikado (37970) – and I suppose those two models are identical in those parts. From that drawing (you can download it by clicking on "anzeigen" in that line; don't ask me why they have a "download" link with some but not all of them...) it looks to me that the at the front they also have one of those NEM boxes. If I am not mistaken, you might try a #18 or the likes.

Cheers,
Harry

P.S.: For those interested: There are usually some of the Trix Mikes available on the German ebay; the one without sound sell for € 200+, the ones with for € 250+.

P.P.S.: Sorry, I forgot to add the link to the Marklin page where you can find the drawing.

[tstage]

I contacted Kadee this morning and posed the question to them.  Here is the response that I got from them:

Hello Mr. Stage,

You will need to enlarge the coupler opening, leaving the top lip of the
pocket, in order to slide the coupler box in then attach it with a small
screw through the deck. If you want to use the #58 scale coupler cut the
side holes off or use the #78 coupler.

Sam Clarke
Kadee Quality Products

So, it looks like I will have to drill out and tap a hole to secure the coupler box.

Someone also suggested to me to contact Walthers because they are the US distributor for Marklin/Trix.  While they didn't know the answer to the above, they did answer another question I had about accessing and replacing the orange LED headlight for a golden-white LED.  I'll pass along this one as well for those interested:

I have never had to replace the LED, thus have never had to access the
circuit board.   I just took a model I have here and took the boiler off.
The boiler front is removable.  It is a press fit I tapped the boiler front
at its bottom and it slid out.   The LED circuit board can then be
maneuvered out a ways for access to the LED.

Ken (Brzenk) 

I was wondering if that was the case.  However, when I tried removing the boiler before, I only could remove it so far.  And I was afraid to try and pry the boiler front off in fear that I might mar the shell somehow.

I'll let you know how both operations turn out.

Tom

[tstage]

It goes without saying: Digitral cameras are a real boon to MRRing.

I wasn't 100% clear on Sam Clarke's (Kadee) description above so I took a few pictures last night of the front coupler section of my Trix Mike.  I edited the pictures slightly in MS Paint then attached them to an e-mail, asking Sam whether or not I correctly interpreted what he was telling me, as well as bouncing a couple of other ideas off of him.

Sam responded back to me this morning and verified that I did indeed understand him correctly and that my substitute coupler box idea (using a #158 instead of a #58) should work just fine.  He also added a couple of other pointers/tips in regards to mounting the coupler boxes.  So, I think I'm all set to begin modifying and installing working couplers on the front end of my Trix Mikes.

Since there wasn't anything on the Net that I was able to find on the topic, I would like to document and create a tutorial on this modification in the hope that it will benefit others.  I'll keep you posted...

Tom