Chuck,
It depends where you're located at. If you are in an attic or basement, you will have more dust. You can cut that down with finishing the walls in the room. If you're in the main part of your house, you won't get as much dust. In the garage is toward the middle. The basement/garage might have to be done 3 times a year, when in the house may only be 1-2. If you already have a track cleaning consist, you can keep it running every once in a while. Hope this will help you.
Peace
I just used the Metal Polish and did not have to clean my track for 4 years.
I operate twice a month and usually have 7 to 10 operators in at each session.
The rest of the time I am working the layout doing scenery and structures so I was making some dust & dirt.
A quick wipe of the track in the area and leave the rest go.
Before using the metal polish I was cleaning my track before every session and had to keep cleaning the engine wheels several times during the night!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Hello Chuck I would say yes it should take your 1-2 times a month to 1-2 times a year. But you do not want to use the bright boy any more. Just the alcohol and rag. If your cleaning your stuff that much you may have a dust issue? Where is your train room? Is the room finished? If not you may have to seal out the dust by finishing the room some how. Seal the floor put up a celling ect. Hope this Helps Frank
Ok heres a ? for you all then, i see it said that this has lessened the need for "MAJOR" cleaning, and all thats needed is an occasional wipe down for dust and such, so what is considered a MAJOR cleaning? are we talking heavy elbow grease and scrubbing with brite boys and hours of work or? i mean right now my cleaning regament consists of pulling the loco and rolling stock, soaking a Scott rag in a box rag with 91 proof alcohol and wiping around til clean, usually 2-3 times around, then putting on a "fresh loco and consist, and i do this 1-2 times a month, is that "major" and would this method cut down on that frequency?, right now it's not a big deal but on the new layout i will have some track that is not in the open so this could be huge, i like the idea of this and want to believe, and id does make sense so any thoughts on this? thanks again.
Chuck & Heather
I did a GLEAM of all the track on my industrial penisula ~ a month ago. None of that track had ever worked reliably before; now it performs flawlessly, I'm a believer!
-Ken in Maryland (B&O modeler, former CSX modeler)
I tried the GLEAM method in 2005 in an attempt to disprove it as a hoax. I found that it does work, in fact it works so well that I haven't had to do any serious cleaning of the track since that time. Just a quick wipe with a clean dry cloth to get up any dust and the rail tops are bright and shiny. I've become a true believer in this track cleaning method and promote it at every opportunity.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Hello Chuck I don't think it matters what scale. But if I could go back I would paint the rails then I would gleam then ballest. Hope this helps. Frank
Has anyone done this with N-scale track yet? I am going to be building a new layout here soon, if it ever warms up that is, and will be using Atlas code 80 flex and sectional track, all new and am intriqued by this technique and want to try it but would like some feedback before i take the plunge so to speak, i am going to use WS foam roadbed and caulk to secure the track, then will ballest and weather the rails, now as i understand it you get the track down and secure and running good, then do this and then ballest and weather, would that be the order? and again any N-scalers out there who have done this? please let me know, thanks.
I just did my first gleaming job. I am constructing a double track tunnel and getting at the track to clean it will be problematic so I decided to get the rails as clean as possible before capping the tunnel. In the past I have just used a Brighty Boy followed by metal polish but had never done the sanding and burnishing.
I stumbled on a handy applicator tool for the polish. I use the plate that comes with the Kadee undertrack uncoupling magnets. It's flat and the perfect size. I just take a fingertip of polish and spread it into a thin coat on the plate and apply it to the rails. It deposits just the right amount of polish without any excess. I had used a small piece of foam roadbed in the past but that absorbed as much polish as it put on the rails. The other downside was if I pressed a little to hard, I might get polish on the ties or the sides of the rail. This eliminates that problem.
Hello well I pick up some 800 grit anyway and used it also. So I started with 400,800,1000,1500 then I used a piece of stainless square tube. Do not press hard with the stainless or you will rough up the tack and you will have to re sand. I got a nice shine from the stainless then I started with the polish and it got better. Then I puffed it with a clean towel. The black was real heavy and got lighter the more I cleaned till it was gone. It looked real good so I grab my pa-1 gave it a good cleaning ran it 4 times around and it ran great it seam to help the slow speed more then high speed. Then I ran my towel on the rail and it was black. Not sure why but it was. So I grabbed a clean towel and cleaned them again. Cleaned the train again ran it 4 more times and same thing the black was back. So this time I got the alcohol out and cleaned it with that. You should see the black that came off that time wow. It look like the first swipe when you remove the polish. So tonight it will all get cleaned with the alcohol. I don't think this is a cure all for track cleaning but I think it will help or am I doing something wrong? Thanks Frank
Springfield PA
Hello I started it this weekend and i have two questions.1 should wipe down the rail with alcohol in between sanding? And I am not sue if I made a mistake but I started with 400 grit instead of 800. Can go to 1000 then 1500 or do I need to get some 800 before the 1000? Thanks Frank
Thanks
I tried gleaming, and it worked great. I haven't had any problems with connections, and there are no trains stopping on the layout (without me telling them to). thanks to all the people who gave their input.
Gleaming is my exclusive method for cleaning track, once I had done it the first time. Seldom need to repeat it, and works as promised. I found it can be done fairly fast as well.
Hal
The process has been covered numerous times here. Check out this thread in which I describe the process and also include a before and after comparison ....
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/139318/1553664.aspx#1553664
Mark.
¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ
Hi
could someone detail out the steps involved in gleaming?
thx
Flashwave Dum Question: If i gleam track before putting it on the layout, do I risk doing damage to the track during installation?
Dum Question: If i gleam track before putting it on the layout, do I risk doing damage to the track during installation?
It's a lot easier to gleam it AFTER you install it. The track won't move all over the place on you while you do it. Does anyone know where to get cloth diapers, or do they even make them anymore? They were excellent at polishing.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
-Morgan
The black crud is mostly coming off of your rolling stock wheels, especially if you are still running with plastic wheelsets. Changing to metal wheelsets should cut down on some of this grunge.
rickswaI am using Flitz but should there come a point where when you apply it that you don't get that black residue coming off the track? I'm asking because I really can't tell if its just some of the fine metal that its taking off that causes the black stuff to come off or if it's dirt.
I am using Flitz but should there come a point where when you apply it that you don't get that black residue coming off the track? I'm asking because I really can't tell if its just some of the fine metal that its taking off that causes the black stuff to come off or if it's dirt.
You will continue to get the black residue as it's a minute layer coming off (in addition to any dirt, etc). Once you apply the Flitz, you should go back over it with a clean cloth until you don't see the black coming off anymore.
It's like waxing a car. Once the wax dries, you buff it off to a shiny luster.
Also, be sure to use only a very small amount of Flitz at a time. A little goes a long way.
The track on my hollow core door test oval seems to get dirty real quick. If I run trains for a few days I can rub my fingers along the tops of the rails and get black lines on my fingers. What's happening here? I have used abrasive track cleaners in the past and I figure I have introduced some nice grooves for the dirt to hide out in. Seems like this would be a good place for me to do a gleam trial since not too much track is involved and the layout is not scenic-ed. Sound worthwhile? Jamie
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I first tried 'gleaming' after seeing the original thread on the forum several years ago. Some of the flex track i 'gleamed' at that time (with Mother's Mag Wheel Polish and a fender washer) was salvaged from my at that time layout, re-laid on a grade on my present layout - and still hasn't required a second treatment. I occasonally run my fingers along the rails to displace any accumulated dust (non-climate-controlled layout space, vents open to the outside, thanks to a gas water heater and local building codes.)
As I complete each new length of track I 'gleam' it. None has required anything except superficial dust removal since.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Hi All,
I'm doing a new layout and I am at the "pre ballast" point and read about the Gleaming technique. I decided to try it out on a scrap piece of track first and so far the results are amazing. However, can someone answer me one question? I am using Flitz but should there come a point where when you apply it that you don't get that black residue coming off the track? I'm asking because I really can't tell if its just some of the fine metal that its taking off that causes the black stuff to come off or if it's dirt. On my test piece, I did one application and got so much black gunk off on the first pass that I tried a second. Well, after about 7 times, I'm getting just as much black on the applicator as I did the first time even though the track is now mirror shiny. So before I actually start doing this process on my layout, is one application with the Flitz generally enough or are you supposed to do it until no black residue comes off? If that's the case, do you know how many times you have to apply it (generally) to get to that point? Thanks for any help!
Ddid it when I laid track for my layout in April 2007. Haven't had to do a major cleaning since. Just a touch up or two, and that is rare. My layout is in a garage in central Florida. I think you will be happy with the results, it is well worth the effort.
It's legit. I know several people who have done it and they all say they've gotten excellent results. The sandpaper I've been instructed to use (600 grit followed by 800 or something higher) is very fine, so it has no visible effect on the height of the rail.
I'm in the process of GLEAMing an industrial peninsula on my layout that contains ~150ft of track in yards, turnouts, and embedded in streets. Those situations make it more challenging for me to rub the sandpaper on the rails effectively, so it's taking me much longer than I expected. I'll know toward the end of the week whether I'll swear by it or swear at it.
I was recently brought up on the word "gleam". After finding out how to "gleam", I questioned myself, why didn't I think of this earlier. Then I had doubt that it would work. It seems that grinding at the rails would be a bad idea. Would it make the rails uneven? Does anybody have experiences with this? Is it worth it? Sound off.