Fascia question

[desertdog]

Like many others, I use 1/8" Masonite for a fascia.  On some layouts I have painted it black or brown.  This time I left it the natural color that it comes in.  It blends nicely with the earth tones of the layout and I may just leave it as-is.  I use Velcro for various tethered devices and it seems to stick nicely to the bare Masonite.

 

John Timm

[C&O Fan]

I too used 1/8 " masonite painted Pullman green as it blends well with the greens use in the bushes and trees on the layout

i used the tops of old Casette Tape Boxes for my car card holders

they are cheap and just the right size and simple to just screw to the fascia

 

I used sticky velcro to hold the skirt to the Fascia

[Capt. Grimek]

Hi Sue, Here are some additional bits of info. not mentioned yet: Masonite has been the traditional material of choice for decades in Model Railroader (since at least the 1960s if not earlier) so it's a well proven material. Be aware though, that it can eat up a saw blade fairly quickly so be aware that you might need a new Skil saw or table saw blade after sawing up a bunch of panels. Mine got fairly hot sawing four panels clamped together, at once and showed bluish/purple burn marks on the blade although it still cuts fine. Maybe not a problem cutting one panel at a time. (Others can reply to that...) I had no table saw and had to do mine outdoors between rain showers, in a hurry :-0 I haven't applied mine as facsia yet, but have ripped four panels into 16" wide strips. Painting it is no problem at all. Out of paranoia, I "keyed" my smooth surfaces with some sandpaper but that's probably not necessary as it's pretty absorbent. Oh yeah, be careful of the corner edges. The slightest bump into a wall, etc. bends it over a bit. Kind of like a hard paper board would. And finally, the dust is an irritant, very fine and smells kind of varnish-y or like burnt coffee, maybe. It's really burnt linseed oil. Wear a paper mask. All this makes it sound scary or difficult to work with but it's really easy to work with, cheap and just the ticket. Just wanted you to be aware of what to expect working with it.

[tubaman]

I have a large N-scale layout and have used 1/8 in. masonite exclusively for the fascia board.  I kept the bottom edge parallel to the floor and on the top edge.  I cut it to follow the contour of the edge of my track area or mountains, valleys etc.  Then I cut a small peice about 3 in high with the same contour as the top edge and glued it to the inside of the fascia so I had a lip to attach tape or screen or whatever for my Woodland scenics plaster cloth.  I painted my fascia an earthy brown and then attached 3 in high strips of thin, flat molding along the bottom edge to 'dress it off', painting the molding a dark 'forrest green'.  If you soak the molding, you can bend it to quite a sharp curve, attaching it while still wet and bendable.  Lastly, I attached a skirt below the fascia/molding that I made from in-expensive cloth died black.  All this finished my layout nicely ... go with masonite - easy to use and cheap but make sure you buy the 1/8th thick not the 1/4 inch !  Good luck.

Doug H. PM&W RR

[gear-jammer]

steamage

Here's a section of my LA River concrete channel. Masonite cut to strips and painted concrete with pincel in joint lines. Used wood glue and C-clamps to the wood frame.

Is that a tire in the channel?

[CSXDixieLine]

MontRailLink

     The only downside to using Masonite I've seen is how to fasten things to it (e.g. throttle holders, frames with layout diagrams, skirting, etc.).  My experience is that you have to mechanically fasten things to it using nails or screws.  Glue (hot glue, glue backing of Velcro, etc.) will peel off / fall off. 

      Anyone have other experience?

John H.

That is a "con" for using Masonite. I plan on attaching my door bolt turnout throws using machine screws with a nut & washer on the back. Should prevent "pull-throughs." Jamie

[steamage]

Here's a section of my LA River concrete channel. Masonite cut to strips and painted concrete with pincel in joint lines. Used wood glue and C-clamps to the wood frame.

[MontRailLink]

     The only downside to using Masonite I've seen is how to fasten things to it (e.g. throttle holders, frames with layout diagrams, skirting, etc.).  My experience is that you have to mechanically fasten things to it using nails or screws.  Glue (hot glue, glue backing of Velcro, etc.) will peel off / fall off. 

      Anyone have other experience?

John H.

[gear-jammer]

Thanks for all the input, guys.  I am impressed how many have responded.

 Your photos are going to be very helpful.  I hope that we can live up to the  quality of your work. The more ideas the better.

The layout is on 3rd PlanIt.  

Thanks again,

  Sue

[howmus]

Hi Sue!

 

I'll add my voice to the 1/8th inch Masonite!  Easy to handle, works very well around corners, and looks great.  Also quite inexpensive.

In progress:

 

[CSXDixieLine]

ClinchValleySD40

I use 1/8" masonite painted gloss black on both the fascia and valance.   Gives a real nice shadowbox affect and draws the eye into the layout.

Clinch, I am glad you posted this (and your layout looks awesome, by the way) but nobody has really discussed how to paint the fascia. Unlike my backdrop, which I wanted to have as flat a finish as possible, I am using a satin/eggshell finish on my fascia. This is because I expect the fascia to take some scrapes and dings as people walk around and operate the layout, and a satin/eggshell finish will be much more durable than a flat finish. Of course, gloss would be even more durable. I would have thought gloss would not be a good finish selection, but your photo proves me wrong (as usual ). Jamie

[pastorbob]

1/8 inch masonite for me on all three decks, painted a flat reddish-brown to go with the Oklahoma scenery color.  Some of the facsia has been in place since 1984, stands up well.  My wife made curtains to hang below on the bottom deck.

Bob

[ClinchValleySD40]

I use 1/8" masonite painted gloss black on both the fascia and valance.   Gives a real nice shadowbox affect and draws the eye into the layout.

 

 

[citylimits]

I just had to be different - 1/8" masonite for me.

I have painted it using a flat dark green plastic paint and soon, like in the next couple of days, I will place horizontal oiled teak panels, just for effect and because I like this wood a lot.

Bruce

[Lillen]

I'm building my fascia just now. I to use 1/8th" masonite for all the reasons above, cheap, flexible and easy to handle. Whats not to love. I do use solid wood behind it though to support my turnout controls and so on.

 

Magnus

[wedudler]

 I've used plywood:

 

Wolfgang

[steamage]

I use masonite and paint it with flat latex paint. If you need a sharp facia curve, use 1/8 thk. masonite and cut groves on the back side 1/16 inch deep and an inch apart. I C-clamp the facia masonite to be cut against the scenery and mark it then cut to ground conture.

[tomikawaTT]

Thin Masonite by a landslide!  There's a 4 x 8 sheet of it in my layout space waiting for its call to duty.  Not enough for all the fascia needed, but a good start.

As for color, my initial thought was to leave it au naturel, since the natural grunge color will hide paw prints better than any single paint color.  Also, I expect to have numerous access panels for the electricals, and loosening and tightening screws isn't compatable with maintaining a good-looking paint job.  The fascia will go on before all the building and wiring is completed.

Present plan is to cut the bottom of the fascia flush with the bottom of the L girders.  'Hide the junk' drapes will be some dark colored fabric, velcroed to the bottom inside edge of the fascia.  (Too bad that won't help to hide the junk on the layout surface...)

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[lvanhen]

Sue, I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest 1/8" masonite!!  As per the other posters, paints well, curves easily, AND CHEAP!!!   If you need storage under the layout, cut the masonite so that it will be 6" or so high at the lowest point of your scenery, then attach material to the back to hide your "junk"!  Rough cut it to shape and clamp it to the benchwork to make final pencil marks.  DO ALL THE CUTTING OUT OF THE TRAINROOM!!!!  The stuff makes very fine dust that will wind up everywhere!!!   Don't forget to post pics when you're done!!

[LNEFAN]

I may be a bit out of step with most posters as I chose paneling for my fascia. It's just a very personal preference of liking the "wood" look on my part. I had the paneling ripped at HD. It bends very easily and I used panel joining strips to finish the edges and seams.  The prefinished surface makes it easy to keep clean. Masonite is also excellent as many posters have shown and I debated my choice. In the end I was happy with my results.

[G Paine]

I agree with the 1/8" Masonite as well.

I build a frame out of 1x2s and attach it with Liquid Nails, at least on straight sections. That way you do not have to bother covering up screw heads. I cover the joints with drywall mud and wet sand when it is dry. That makes the seams diasappear. Using this method, I have been able to add small sections of Masonite to the top of the facia where I goofed and installed it too low, or changed plans.

Painting is no problem, and if you mess it up with scenery work later, just apply another coat. I am using a medium brown, flat, interior latex paint.

We are using a similar method at our club layout; we plan to add a black cloth skirt under the facia to hide all the stuff was have stored underneath the layout. We will attach it with Velcro on the back of the facia, so it is easy to remove and re-attach.

[ARTHILL]

I made the holders from 1/4" oak left over from another project. Any 1/4" material should work, plywood would be less clean looking and masonite would be slightly more fragile. They are just glued together and painted with house paint.

[slow train Ed]

ARTHILL

I also am a fan of 1/8" masonite. I paint it earth brown. If it were combined with a soffit I would paint it flat black to simulate a picture frame, but I do not use soffits. I attach it with decrative screws so all parts are easily removible.

arthill i asking off topic.I see your controlerholders did you make them or buy? If bought may i ask where?

slowtrain Ed

 

[ARTHILL]

I also am a fan of 1/8" masonite. I paint it earth brown. If it were combined with a soffit I would paint it flat black to simulate a picture frame, but I do not use soffits. I attach it with decrative screws so all parts are easily removible.

[loathar]

1/8" masonite here too. Nice and flexible.

[SilverSpike]

Hey there Sue!

Nice layout plan you got there, is that from 3rd PlanIT? 

Put my vote in for the 1/8" 4'X8' masonite hardboard. In fact I just purchased 2 pieces of the stuff at Lowe's a couple weekends ago and a sheet sold for $6.50 each.

It bends and cuts well, and hold acrylic or latex paint very well. Here are some fascia and backdrop images that highlight the masonite hardboard in action!

Here is the fascia painted and working on one of the seams with some floated mud getting sanded down and ready for another coat of latex paint.

 

Recently painted backdrop with Smoky Mountains using acrylic paints.

 

 

 

[CSXDixieLine]

I am using 1/8" Masonite for my fascia as well as my backdrops and highly recommend it. It curves easily, has a nice smooth finish that holds paint well, and best of all it is very inexpensive (about $6 for a 8x4' sheet of 1/8" Masonite at HD/Lowes). I just installed the fascia on the middle level of my layout as a valance for the lighting for the lower level as you can see in the image below. That particular section of fascia is not curved, although you can see the curved Masonite on both the backdrop and the helix base in the foreground. Another "pro" for using Masonite is that unfinished edges can be covered with cheap vinyl molding for wall panels, as you can see in my photo. My fascia will eventually be painted to match the wall color of the room.

Jamie

[Don Z]

Sue,

I prefer to use 1/8" thick Masonite for my fascia. It will conform to curves very easily and also takes paint very well. I rip the sheet and use the full 8' length as much as possible to reduce the number of joints in the fascia. I established a baseline for the fascia (2" below my benchwork) and in places where my scenery extends up above the layout deck, I cut the fascia wide enough to cover the height of the scenery and traced the scenery profile onto the back of the fascia, then trimmed it with a jigsaw to match the scenery profile.

Edit: Here is a photo showing how I cut the Masonite to follow the contour of the elevated scenery:

Don Z.

[Heartland Division CB&Q]

My suggestion of using chalkboard appeared in Jim Hediger's Workshop column of MR maybe 2 or 3 years ago. The color looks pleasing, and you do not have to paint it. It is easy to clean. I can use chalk to write switch lists and other instructions to operators. I had the hardware store mix up a  small can of matching touch up latex paint.

 As a general rule, I install it about one inch higher than the adjacent layout height. This provides a protective fence to prevnet trains from falling off of the layout. I avoid "floor models".

Using plastic "For Sale" signs is a good idea. I cut up some of those to make the "concrete" retaining wall. I used PVC cement to hold the strips together, and painted to simulate concrete. Here is an example on the layout.