To enhance the capilary effect, I first wash the wall with water and wait until it is almost dry.
I've also tried first painting the wall with a concrete color such as camouflage khaki. Then I dry brush the brick face with several red brick colors. This takes a while since several light coats are needed, but the results are good with multiple shades of red brick. And with DPM models at least, your concrete window openings are automatically painted.
Another vote here for the thinned down craft paint. If you thin it right, you get a nice capilary effect and it sucks into the mortar lines without leaving a bunch on the brick face. Never thought of using tan or brown paint though. That's a good idea.
I second the recommendation on the Roberts' Brick Mortar. It is easy to use and realistic.
Tim Fahey
Musconetcong Branch of the Lehigh Valley RR
I have 2 ways that I do my mortor lines.
The first way is baby powder rubbed into the mortor lines. This is the easiest way. The other method that I have is a bottle of Floquil Concrete color and a bottle of cheep rubbing alcohol. Pour the Rubbing alcohol into a clean bowl. Pour the whole bottle of paint into the empty alcohol bottle. Then pour the rubbing alcoholback into the original bottle with the paint. This solution gives a great resebolence of mortor. Kevin
I use DAP spackling compound. Get the smallest container you can find; a little bit goes a long way. Don't worry about the "goes on pink / dries white' kind; that works OK also.
After painting the brick, I trowel the spackle on using a small screwdriver (a pallet knife or similar tool would also work), making a thin layer without scraping the paint off the brick. Let it dry overnight, and wipe the excess off with a damp paper towel. I tear small pieces of towel because that size works better than a full sheet. I keep a water container nearby to rewet the towel, and throw the towel away when it gets too much gunk buildup on it. If there is a buildup around window trim, I dampen it and gently scrape with a hobby knife. It is best to wipe with a diagonal motion; wiping parallel to the mortar will remove the spackle, particularly on a model with shallow grooves between the brick. I have left the spackle on a model for a couple of weeks before cleaning it with no problem - just got busy with sonething else.
These are a couple of examples:
Joes Barber shop:
Ollies Tavern
If you are wondering if the stuff lasts; I built Ollies about 20 years ago
I have tried various paint washes, but never liked the result
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
Well, my method is a bit different from most. I'm not too comfortable working with these "new-fangled" acrylic paints, so I use Testor's white (solvent) enamel paint and a bottle of the thinner/brush cleaner, and a very fine paintbrush - sable, preferably.
I first set the wall flat on a level surface. I dip just the very tip of the brush in the unthinned paint, then dip the brush in the thinner, so it's loaded. Then I touch the brush carefully to a mortar line. Capillary action spreads the thinned paint along the mortar lines, without getting it on the brick surfaces. Repeat as necessary, moving around the wall, until the lines are covered evenly, without being really heavily done.
Too much mortar is even more unrealistic than none at all, IMHO - after all, some building owners actually paint their brick walls a brick color to seal the brick and mortar from moisture - so mortar lines should be somewhat understated. On a real brick wall, you generally can hardly see mortar lines from 200-300 feet away...
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Gary M. Collins gmcrailgNOSPAM@gmail.com
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"Common Sense, Ain't!" -- G. M. Collins
http://fhn.site90.net
I like to use spackle rubbed in with my fingers. It also has the effect of "toning down" the buildings finish. I use a toothpick to clean up the corners around windows, doors, etc.
I also use acrylic on plastic after washing, then wipe after about 5 minutes. This is on an n-scale layout.
I like to use spackle. I smear in on and wipe it off with a wet paper towel before it dries, similar to grout treatment with tile.
Sue
Anything is possible if you do not know what you are talking about.
nbrodar I like acrylic craft paint. I use a brush to apply the paint. Let it set a minute. Then wipe it off with a paper towel. Tan mortar on red brick: Brown mortar on beige brick: Tan mortar on brown brick: Nick
I like acrylic craft paint. I use a brush to apply the paint. Let it set a minute. Then wipe it off with a paper towel.
Tan mortar on red brick:
Brown mortar on beige brick:
Tan mortar on brown brick:
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
My technique is similar to Garry's. I use Hydrocal, and rub it into the mortar lines after painting the structure. I do this before I assemble it, so I can still lay all the walls down flat. Once the hydrocal is on, I spray above it, horizontally, so the water mists down on the hydrocal without having the spray disturb it. It dries in under an hour and looks STARK RAVING WHITE. Don't panic. It's normal. Next, take a damp paper towel and wipe the excess hydrocal off the faces of the bricks. Then use a thin wash of India Ink in water to tone down the white hydrocal to whatever shade of gray you're comfortable with.
This is a Model Power building I did this to:
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Here's a picture of a building I made.
To make the "mortor", I laid painted, unassembled walls on flat surface. I spread plaster of paris powder on the sides using a stiff old paint brush. I rubbed the powder into the mortor lines. Next, I gently sprayed a solution of water and a few drops of dish detergent onto the walls. After the water dried, I brushed horizontally with a small wire brush. After that, you may weather with washes of acrylic paint if you choose to do that. You may assemble the building after 'mortor' is dry.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
I use Polly Scale paint, usually the color Dust although sometimes a different mortar color. I brush it on thickly and not especially carefully, let it set for five minutes or so, then wipe it off with a damp cloth. As long as you aren't too aggressive with the wiping it leaves a nice mortar effect, even a bit uneven. I have never tried it over bare plastic. I always airbrush with Floquil first.
Good luck!
Roger Johnson
I've used Robert's Brick Mortor, usually advertised in MR every month, and can say it is easy to use and looks great.
Mike
I have seen a mortar effect on a brick wall with an acrylic paint, but forgive me, I can't remember where. I'll see what I can do as far as digging up where I saw it at.
Can anyone recommend a quick and easy way to get the mortor effect in brick walls? Has anyone tried a water base acrylic ,does it work ? My walls are eithe natural brick color(plastic) or Polly Scale paint ..