For Christmas I got my 5th Bowser steam engine kit: a Pennsylvania Railroad L-1 Mikado. This topic will cover my progress as I make it, as well as show you all how these kits are built with numerous photos.
Of course, the first thing to do is pull it all out of the box. The brass handrail wire is kept in the very bottom of the box under all the foam.Looks like it's gonna be a whole lot of fun, doesn't it? Some tools you'll need will be small screwdrivers, drill bits ranging from about size #55 through around #75 (check your instructions for exact sizes. Most, but not all, holes are already drilled), a small file or two, and your choice of glue. I'll be using liquid and gel super glues.
The obvious next step is cleaning up your parts.Most of the metal flash can be easily filed off, and some will even peel away without much trouble. The L-1 has excellent quality parts, with much less flash and very fine seams compared to other Bowser steam engines I've built. There are a couple spots that need to be filled and then filed or sanded smooth.
Once everything is cleaned up, assembly can be started. The first step for assembly is placing the drive wheels in the frame. To do this, which wheels are insulated and which aren't must be determined.As you can see, the insulated wheel has a thin strip of insulation between the center wheel and rim. Some are less obvious than others, and if which is which can't be determined by the eye, a power supply can be used by touching one lead to the axle, and the other to the wheel rim. If a short happens, that is the uninsulated wheel.
After it's been determined which wheels are insulated, they can be put in the frame. All insulated wheels should be on the left side (right when turned upside down) so the engine will get power from the right-side rail. The axles should be oiled a little, and all wheels should spin freely.
Once all the wheels are in, the siderods can be added.Bowser provides the proper size hex driver for the brass hex-headed screws. The screws should be tight enough not to back out, but not so tight that the threads will be stripped out (remember, these are brass). Sometimes, the holes in the siderods will be slightly too small, and will have to be expanded with a round file, or some other tool that can properly expand a hole. The siderods should be oiled to work properly.
The next step is to assemble the crossheads and main rods.Before screwing the crossheads to the main rods, all flash should be cleaned off, and wether the crossheads can slide freely on their guides and in the cylinders should be checked. Once they've been assembled (make sure the main rods can move freely on the crossheads), the end of the screw should be cut off as close to flush as possible, and a small drop of liquid super glue should be added so the screw won't back out. If the screw isn't cut, it will bind with the siderods on the front wheels.
This post is getting long, so I'll continue in the next post (which will be up in a few minutes).
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The next step is to assemble the cylinders, crosshead guides, crossheads and main rods to the frame.The valve-gear hanger holds everything together, so it should be put on while working on this part of the assembly. The screw called in the instructions for the valve gear hanger is about 3/32" too short. A longer screw with a phillips head is provided and should be used in place of the other screw (I had a screw from an earlier Bowser kit that was the exact length needed, so I used it instead). Everything should work absolutely freely with no binds. One of the front wheels on mine was binding with a crosshead, so a spacer had to be put on the opposite wheel to keep the bind from happening. I made a C-shaped washer from some thin plastic and snapped it onto the axle, and the problem was fixed.
Next is what many consider to be the most difficult part of the kit: the valve gear.Bowser provides a small riveting tool with every kit, which is used with a light-weight metal object, like a small to medium sized wrench. I used the blunt side of a pair of scissors this time. The riveting should be done on a hard surface (I used a small piece of sheet steel). To flare the rivet, place the tool on top of the rivet, and tap the tool. Check the first couple rivets frequently to make sure they are being flared properly.Once the rivet is finished, check to make sure the rods can rotate all the way around freely. Sometimes, if a rivet is a little too tight, wiggling the rods around can loosen it up alright. If there's no way to fix it, remove the rivet and try again (Bowser provides plenty of rivets).
After the valve-gear is fully assembled, it can be assembled to the frame and mechanism.The front of the valve-gear drops right through the large hole in the front of the hanger, so the hanger doesn't have to be removed for maintainence or painting. The hole on the small rod that assembles to the crosshead was too small for the screw to go through, and had to be expanded. The screw also had to be threaded through the crosshead, but this isn't hard since the metal for the crosshead is very soft. The cylinders also had to be modified slightly to clear the front of the valve-gear. All screws should be cut off, with a small drop of super glue put on the threads. After a few minor frustrations, the valve-gear went together well, and worked freely. Clearance should be double-checked to make sure there won't be any problems later.
And now comes the final step for the mechanism.Bowser's new DC-71 motor is an excellent runner, with fairly low current draw. It's not quite as quiet as a can motor, but boy is it smooth! It mounts to the frame with two screws; one in front and one in back. Thin fiber washers are used to adjust the gear mesh. The gear mesh on mine was just slightly loose, so one washer was added to the back to tighten it a little. The gears should have only the tiniest bit of slop in them, but they shouldn't be so tight they bind (the axle rests on the worm instead of the bearings). A little grease should be added to the gears at a time, running each little bit in until the gear teeth are fully coated with a thin layer of grease. The motor bearings should also be oiled a little.
More in the next post!
Darth:
You're really whetting my appetite for one of these Bowser kits--and your step-by-step instructions make it look a LOT less formidable than I thought it might be.
Looking forward to the next installments.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
I'd go for a few of those---even if it isn't in N---grrr!
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Darth, No wonder the Dash 8 / 9 you fixed for me is such a great running engine!
If I remember right you have a smaller layout. Why do you like the Bowser kits so much? What had me thinking about them was the reported pulling power. Is it more the skill that is needed to build one? If so I understand.
Your friend Ken
I hate Rust
Now that the motor is on, the front pilot, and front and rear trucks can be assembled to the frame.The parts for the front pilot are very soft metal, so if they don't fit right, they can be modified easily. The front truck just snaps together, making it very easy. The rear truck has a plate screwed on to retain the wheels, but the plate was slightly too long and had to be modified slightly (I bent the end at a 45 degree angle, so it wasn't a hard modification).
Now that the mechanism is totally assembled, the boiler can be put on for testing.The boiler has a weight that is supposed to be glued in, but I have it stuffed in for now with a little paper towel. That way, it can be removed for when I paint the boiler.
My layout runs on DC power, so I secured the right motor wire to the engine frame.I was able to hide the wire by looping it around the bottom of the motor, feeding it through the frame, and securing it with the rear screw for the boiler and drawbar. Pretty clever, if I do say so myself. The other wire goes through the cab and to a small screw on the front of the tender.
Tender assembly is very simple and straight forward.The brass contacts/wheel retainers on the bottom of the tender trucks weren't contacting the axles, so I bent them slightly to make good contact with the axles, which should improve electrical pickup. The needle-point bearings should be oiled, because they'll squeek otherwise. The insulated wheels should be on the right side of the tender, so the tender will get electrical pickup from the left rail.
The next step is testing it out to make sure everything is working properly. This is where any problems that are left, like binding or electrical problems, can be found, and then fixed. It's a good idea to make sure the problems are fixed before painting, because excessive handling after painting can wear the paint off. Then it should be broken-in fully for the best possible performance.
Unfortunately for me, my switches are total garbage, so I have trouble running it in reverse without the trailing truck derailing and shorting. I may try adding a spring to the truck to see if that will fix it.
During this time, some of the super details can be added.I will be painting my L-1 in two colors, so I only add the details that won't cross from one color zone to another (it makes masking and touch-up a whole lot easier). The tender will only be one color, so it can be fully detailed before painting.
That's all the progress I've made for now. My kit is missing two detail parts from the tender, so I will have to contact Bowser about them before I can start painting. I will be sure to continue posting my progress as I make it.
twhite, when you just go at these things step-by-step, they're not as hard as you'd think they might be.
cudaken, the main thing I like about the Bowsers is that I build them myself. I've always loved kit building, so the Bowsers are a lot of fun for me. Of course, I do like big engines, even if I do have a small layout. But, when I (hopefully) do get my basement-sized layout someday, the pulling power will definately be available!
blownout cylinder, maybe you should consider a scale change, and join us in the dark side!
A question. Have you built the USRA Mountain? And if so, does it have the cast-on domes? The reason I ask, is that looking at the Bowser 4-8-2, it also looks as if it would be a really good basis for a Southern Pacific MT series. However, the SP had very distinctive sand and steam domes (which I can get from PSC, along with other details), and I wonder if I'd have to do a lot of grinding, if they were not separate castings.
Just curious, mind you. BTW, my hat's off to you and your Bowser collection. You're really starting to get me anxious to try one of their locos.
I haven't built that one, but the pictures on Bowser's website (http://bowser-trains.com/holocos/usra_mountain/usra_mountain.htm) show that the domes are separate, so it looks like you could have a good starting point for your SP MT Mountain!
Darth, you make building these kits look so easy.
- Luke
Modeling the Southern Pacific in the 1960's-1980's
Darth Santa Fe For Christmas I got my 5th Bowser steam engine kit: a Pennsylvania Railroad L-1 Mikado. This topic will cover my progress as I make it, as well as show you all how these kits are built with numerous photos.
I'm curious; what other Bowser Kits have you built? (I assume the challenger from your signature). I'm thinking about the USRA Light Mikado. Any advice?
I'm building the Bowser 4-6-0 Casey Jones, and I was advised to use tissue paper "spacers" between the valve gear parts, then burn or soak it out after it was all riveted together. Have you heard this? It looks like you riveted everything together carefully without paper spacers.
Gary
garyaI'm curious; what other Bowser Kits have you built? (I assume the challenger from your signature). I'm thinking about the USRA Light Mikado. Any advice? I'm building the Bowser 4-6-0 Casey Jones, and I was advised to use tissue paper "spacers" between the valve gear parts, then burn or soak it out after it was all riveted together. Have you heard this? It looks like you riveted everything together carefully without paper spacers.
So far, I've built:1. PRR A-5 0-4-02. UP Challenger 4-6-6-43. NYC K-11 4-6-24. PRR T-1 4-4-4-4
I have built the mechanism of the USRA Light Mikado for scubaterry. He can tell you more about the overall quality of the whole kit than I ever could (all I've seen is the frame, cylinders, and mechanism). From what I have seen (on Bowser's website), it's another excellent steam engine, but I don't think I could give anymore advice than what I've posted here.
I've heard of using paper spacers before, but I've never tried it since I always seem to get by fine without it. I'm sure it works, though.
You're making good progress.
One question - did the tender come with a seperate floor, or were there 2 vertical cast-on posts for the truck screws. I ask because the B6 0-6-0 I built had the posts and I had to chop them off to get a bed for the speaker.
edit
I just had another look at the first photo and answered my own question
Jon
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twhite Darth: A question. Have you built the USRA Mountain? And if so, does it have the cast-on domes? The reason I ask, is that looking at the Bowser 4-8-2, it also looks as if it would be a really good basis for a Southern Pacific MT series. However, the SP had very distinctive sand and steam domes (which I can get from PSC, along with other details), and I wonder if I'd have to do a lot of grinding, if they were not separate castings. Just curious, mind you. BTW, my hat's off to you and your Bowser collection. You're really starting to get me anxious to try one of their locos. Tom
Tom,
The steam and sand domes on the 4-8-2 are applied details; easily replaced or modified. I started on my Mountain 2 months ago and it's been a lot of fun. It's actually been running on my layout for over a month. It can really pull! The only problem I've had is obtaining the super detail kit for the Mountain. Bowser has told me they won't have them until sometime in 2009. I didn't want to wait that long and eventually just bought what I needed. Mostly Cal Scale parts. I'm now waiting for one injector, a tender backup light and Kadee #6 and then I can paint the boiler and tender. The frame is now finished and painted with the installation of the brake cylinders and brake shoes. If you want more information or pictures let me know. There's some early build photos here (without and with the domes):
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/140795/1567630.aspx#1567630
Peter
Tom, the Bowser Pennsy M1/M1a chassis is closer to the SP MT's than the so called USRA chassis, having 72" drivers rather than 69" drivers. The MT's had 73" drivers. OTOH, with the M1 chassis, you've got the problem of scratchbuilding a boiler and cab. In any case, you'd have to remove that horrible cab from the "USRA" engine regardless. Why oh why did they do that?
Seems to me you'd be better off getting the DC version of the new Athearn MT's.
Now if you want a Pacifc, the USRA kit would make a good start towards an SP P-8, especially if Athearn will sell the 120C-3 tender with which it's equipping the MT's as a separate item. You would have to grind down the sand dome and substitute a PSC casting and you'd have to build up the steam dome, but the result probably wouldn't turn out too bad.
I'm saving my shekels for a Pacific kit.
EDIT: Apparently Standard Hobby Supply has the USRA Pacific kit for $112.99, a $36.01 savings over MSRP.
Andre
Andre--
Thanks for the reply. Actually, I've already got brass models of the MT-3,4 and 5 locos that I like really well. I think my main concern is that I'd like to try building a Bowser kit, just to build one, but I don't know what I'd do with another 'off-road' loco, hence at least trying to adapt it to a kinda/sorta MT. The only other option I could see would be substituting a larger boiler and trying for a Rio Grande M-78 3-cylinder job, but then I'd run into main rod placement problems (3rd instead of 2nd drivers) and besides, I've already got two of those, anyway, LOL!
Gonna have to think about this, I am. Mainly, I'm kind of hot to build the Bowser just to see if I CAN!
Darth, just so you know PRR tenders were usually painted in three colors, DGLE for the tank, black for the frame and trucks and oxide red for the coal space and tender deck. The locomotive was painted for the most part DGLE except for the pilot truck and wheels, top of the walkway, frame, trailing truck wheels and optional for the drivers of black. Smokebox and firebox were graphited and the cab roof was a mixture of ocide red and black.
Tom, I don't know if you let Sante Fe equipment on your railroad, but they did pick up three PRR L1 Mikes at the end of WWII.
Rick
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Excellent tutorial, Darth! As a fan of Bowser kits, I concur in your assement of them as excellent-running locomotives. I do have a question: Your tutorial and the photo of the kit pieces, don't show a back plate for the cab. Does the kit come with one, or do you have to get the super detail kit to get it?
Bowser got the dies from Penn Line back in the early Seventies, and the PL locos didn't have backs for the cabs. I know that Bowser has backs for the cabs, but I wasn't aware that they weren't putting them in the kits....
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dti406Darth, just so you know PRR tenders were usually painted in three colors, DGLE for the tank, black for the frame and trucks and oxide red for the coal space and tender deck. The locomotive was painted for the most part DGLE except for the pilot truck and wheels, top of the walkway, frame, trailing truck wheels and optional for the drivers of black. Smokebox and firebox were graphited and the cab roof was a mixture of ocide red and black.
Wow, I didn't know that. Thanks for the info.
By the way, what's DGLE? I was planning on using Modelflex Brunswick Green.
gmcrailYour tutorial and the photo of the kit pieces, don't show a back plate for the cab. Does the kit come with one, or do you have to get the super detail kit to get it?
The cab comes with a full interior, and even has a painted crew included! The standard kit includes the backplate, and the detail kit includes the crew. Right now, only the Deluxe model with the detail kit is available, so you don't have to worry about not having either of them.
Darth Santa Fedti406Darth, just so you know PRR tenders were usually painted in three colors, DGLE for the tank, black for the frame and trucks and oxide red for the coal space and tender deck. The locomotive was painted for the most part DGLE except for the pilot truck and wheels, top of the walkway, frame, trailing truck wheels and optional for the drivers of black. Smokebox and firebox were graphited and the cab roof was a mixture of ocide red and black. Wow, I didn't know that. Thanks for the info. By the way, what's DGLE? I was planning on using Modelflex Brunswick Green..
By the way, what's DGLE? I was planning on using Modelflex Brunswick Green..
Dark Green Locomotive Enamel, most manufacturers call it Brunswick Green for some reason. DGLE is the official name in PRR painting specifications.
For metal models I prefer Scalecoat I, but to each their own.
Does the tender have plastic trucks with pick up wipers? I've learned most of my problems and noise with my Mantua Mike comes from the metal on metal on metal in the tender. The power goes from the wheels/axles to the metal truck to the metal tender floor that has a motor wire connected to it. Not the best set up.
twhite Andre-- Thanks for the reply. Actually, I've already got brass models of the MT-3,4 and 5 locos that I like really well. I think my main concern is that I'd like to try building a Bowser kit, just to build one, but I don't know what I'd do with another 'off-road' loco, hence at least trying to adapt it to a kinda/sorta MT. The only other option I could see would be substituting a larger boiler and trying for a Rio Grande M-78 3-cylinder job, but then I'd run into main rod placement problems (3rd instead of 2nd drivers) and besides, I've already got two of those, anyway, LOL! Gonna have to think about this, I am. Mainly, I'm kind of hot to build the Bowser just to see if I CAN! Tom
Here's a nice shot of engineer's side of SP #2464 (P-8). http://www.yesteryeardepot.com/SP2464.JPG
Fireman's side of #2461 http://www.yesteryeardepot.com/SP2461.JPG
Note that the air compressor is forward of the Worthington BL type FWH.
Tender on #2464 is a 120C-3, which is what comes with the new Athearn MT-4.
Better shot of the placement on SP #2487 (P-10) http://www.yesteryeardepot.com/SP2487.JPG
Now there's a challenge. Bash the Bowser to a P-10 with skyline casing. The tender's a 120C-8, which you'd have to get in brass
And a comparison shot of the Bowser USRA kit: http://www.bowser-trains.com/holocos/usra_light_pacific/USRA-LT-PAC-03.jpg
Engineer's side: http://www.bowser-trains.com/holocos/usra_light_pacific/USRA-LT-PAC-05.jpg
Obviously there's some differences and it would take a lot of work to remove the sand dome since it's cast on the boiler. However, with some work, it could be done.
I'm about $30 short of the price plus shipping for one of the kits from Standard Hobby Supply. Oh well, a few more weeks.
After over a year of leaving it pretty much alone, I'm finally getting back to building this Mikado! It's too late to post pictures right now, but I'll at least tell you all what's going on.
Originally, I was building the kit as is. But now, I've decided to put every little effort I can into the detail of this thing (much more difficult than I thought it would be!). I'm filling every little gap and pit, filing and sanding everything as smooth as I can get it, and adding additional details that weren't included in the kit or instructions. So far, I think I have most of the major stuff out of the way.
I will also be replacing the stock motor and gears with a coreless motor and NWSL gearbox. It will be more hidden from view than the DC-71 motor and direct worm drive, and it should also run quieter and smoother. The stock drive is already smooth and pretty quiet, but I want to see just how far I can take it! If there's room, I'll also add a flywheel.
I've finally taken more pictures, so this topic can now get moving again!
That's everything for now. I should be getting the new NWSL gearbox tomorrow, and I'm hoping the motor will also get here real soon.
About time for a up date Slacker! Like I should talk!
Ken
New progress!
To fit the new NWSL gearbox in the frame, the slot for the gear had to be widened significantly.Most of the work was done rather slowly with a file. I tried speeding it up a bit with the drill press, but I quickly regretted that decision when the frame caught the drill bit and gave me two big (fortunately not deep) cuts. The gearbox needs a tiny bit of space on each side so that it can have a little room to move. A gearbox like this should never be tight in the frame.
Assembling the gearbox was a tiny bit tricky in a couple areas, but not too bad overall.I used the tall double idler gearbox so that it could fit up into the boiler. The worm is steel, the worm gear is delrin plastic, and the reverse worm gear and axle gear are brass. A little bit of flash had to be cleaned from the plastic gear, but the rest of them were very clean. The worm was binding a little bit with the idler gear and had to be raised about 0.5mm. The axle gear was the trickiest part to get on, since I don't have a proper pressing tool. It must be straight on the axle with no wobble to work properly. Once completely built, lubricated, and run a little bit, this is one of the quietest, smoothest, and best quality gear systems I've ever used. The 16mm flywheel is a slightly modified Athearn that came from a Genesis motor I accidentily broke a while back. I decided to put it on the gearbox because the motor I'm going to use has a pretty short shaft. It will need just a little more balancing, but it should add a nice bit of coasting with the new motor. So far, it hasn't caused any problems.
That's all for today!
Looking good!
I've made a little more progress with the details and motor now.
Because the new motor is so different from the DC-71, a new motor mount had to be made.The motor is a 13x35mm, 7-pole, high power coreless type. It's rated to run at 8,800RPM at 12V, with a stall torque of 1 oz-in (about the same or more than an Athearn gold motor), and a stall current of 0.56A. It runs very quietly, and it should be plenty strong for a 2-8-2. The mount is a piece of brass sheet, and the motor sits on a foam-rubber block I saved from the garbage at work. The block isolates vibration well, but it's also very sturdy and holds onto super-glue very well, so everything remains stable and quiet. The piece of brass wire going from the motor to the gearbox allows a little side-to-side motion of the gearbox, but it keeps it from going out of place.
While playing around with the electrical connections, I found that simply having the tender sitting on the trucks made the connection very unreliable.Bowser provided tabs for soldering wires onto the brass axle wipers/retainers. I decided to keep the wires as out of sight as possible, so I drilled holes in the frame to feed them through. I put a screw inside the tender, and soldered the wires to some spade connectors secured by the screw. The tender's electrical pickup is now much more reliable than before.
Since I'm waiting to finish the mechanism before I start any painting, I went ahead and brush painted some of the details to be added later.The engineer and fireman were pre-painted by Bowser. I left the handrails and some of the piping alone for now, but the other parts are at least ready to be assembled once then engine's painted.
I'm expecting the NWSL universal to arrive soon, so I should have more progress coming up pretty quickly.
I finally got the final part needed to finish this kit earlier this week, which is the universal. Everything is starting to take shape, so it won't be too long now!
The NWSL universal was the last part needed to make the new mechanism run, and after a couple hours of fine-tuning, it worked great!The 3/16" universal fit great in the Genesis hex-drive flywheel. The fit was tight, and everything had to be lined up perfectly to work well. I used the single piece universal ball shaft, since little modification was needed for it to fit. I had to cut the end of each ball off just ahead of the tabs for safe clearance. After some final tuning, the Mikado ran around the track almost silently.
Since the drive is finished and working great, everything needed to be cleaned to get it ready for painting.To clean it, I used warm water with soap and a toothbrush. This will be the first time I've ever painted wheels with anything but a brush. To ease the painting process and get a better finish, everything should be disassembled nearly as far as it can go. Some parts (like the frame) are left assembled, because there are certain things that are easier to mask and paint after a certain amount of assembly is done.
I don't have a picture yet, but everything has now been masked and airbrushed with a coat of Scalecoat II MOW Gray to act as a primer. Because it's an enamel, I'm going to let it dry (or "cure" if you want to be proper) for no less than a couple days. The coating looks great so far, and my attempts at filling and sanding turned out smooth for the most part. I think this is going to be one great engine when it's all done!
How about "baking" it in an oven?
Your loco is coming along nicely - eager to see more pics! I wish I could get my hands on a Bowser PRR K 4 kit...