There is a superb HO modeler named Dave (David/David W.) Davis who lays the most realistic 39" rail type track I have ever seen, and it is obvious his prairie type railroad actually has the locomotive undulate from side to side as in a marginally maintained prototype.where the rail ends tend to sink lower than the middles.
He has written several articles on track that show up in the trains.com index; you might have some of those issues. If you have Great Model Railroads for 2001 there are excellent pictures.
So it can be done but I think it takes a high level of craftsmanship.
Dave Nelson
prairieboy2765 I'd like to pull out all the 'loose' rails from all my flex tracks, then cut the sections into a scale 39-foot sections, then slide the 'loose' rail back in, but in a staggered pattern and solder all for a prototypical look. (Just like the real railroads). Has anyone ever attempted this? BTW, I also plan to attach fishplates (plates that actually bolt the rails together in the real world) to further create realism. Also, should the rails touch, or should they have a tiny space between them like in the real world?
I'd like to pull out all the 'loose' rails from all my flex tracks, then cut the sections into a scale 39-foot sections, then slide the 'loose' rail back in, but in a staggered pattern and solder all for a prototypical look. (Just like the real railroads). Has anyone ever attempted this? BTW, I also plan to attach fishplates (plates that actually bolt the rails together in the real world) to further create realism. Also, should the rails touch, or should they have a tiny space between them like in the real world?
One of the great benefits of flextrack is that is is NOT a bunch of short pieces, which means it is more reliable, conducts electricity better, etc. I suspect you'd be very unhappy with the performance of the track (and trains) if you carry out your plan.
Just attach the fishplates to the existing flextrack. That will do the job.
Are you also planning to use sub-microscopic bolts, nuts and washers to bolt them together?
Even nicking the railheads can give you kinks on curves unless the rail has been pre-bent to radius first. While this might be great on a hyperdetailed contest diorama about the size of a sheet of paper, I can't see it as a practical scheme for an operating model railroad.
How do I know? Been there, done that, AIN"T goin' back!!!
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
You'll be reducing the stability, thus reliability, if you cut the rail. Just put fishplates (covering the sides only of the rail) at the simulated joints. (And "rail joiners" do a very poor job simulating prototype fishplates.)
Mark
Rather then do that, just cut a slot in the top of the rail or nick it to simulate a joint and glue joint bars on the sides of the rails.
If you cut the rails then you will need to put an electrical feeder to every 6 in piece of rail. A whole lot of work.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com