Yes, folks, another airbrush question

[mls1621]

I model in N scale and the walls of the AMB kits tend to be pretty thin in N. As a result, when painted they try to warp due to expansion of the painted side.

I use double stick Scotch tape to hold the walls flat on a piece of 1/8 inch ply wood. This keeps the wall flat as the paint dries.

Use of the airbrush over a brush is strictly a matter of taste, as mentioned above, it depends on the effect you're attempting to achieve.

I find it easier to use spray cans for the walls, then sand lightly when dry for weathering.
I only use my airbrush when I have a bunch of stuff to paint, it's a real hassle to clean after just one building or rail car. The cleaning takes longer than the painting.

The window and doors are painted with a brush while still in the sheet.

As far as plastic solvent cements are concerned, let your conscience and comfort level be your guide. A well ventilated area is the best bet regardless of what you chose to do.

That's just my opinion, I could be wrong.

[Anonymous]

CJM:

I use both yellow wood glue and gap filling CA on wood and have had good results with both.

When I paint a wood structure I usually use a small artist brush ( 1/8 or 1/4 width which simulates scale sized brushes) where I want some variation in the coverage which helps in simulating weather effects. I use the air brush where I am painting cement or stucco. When simulating weathering I use the air brush for over-sprays of dirt, water scale, or dullcote.

I have a home made spray booth for use with the air brush. The amount of CA I use doesn't in my view necessitate the use of a respirator but I do work only in a well ventilated area.

Good Luck

Randy

[Anonymous]

I have been building model kits for years and it hasn't affected me in the least.


I have been building model kits for years and it hasn't affected me in the least.



I have been building model kits for years and it hasn't affected me in the least.


[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]

bill

[cjcrescent]

Dano99 hit the answer about painting wood with a brush versus an airbrush. I personally paint wood structures with a brush as the prototype was.
As to wearing a respirator when using plastic cement, it really depends on whats in the cement. Since styrene is a plastic and plastic is made from petroleum, just about any distillate made from petroleum will work as a cement. Most liquid cements are made from one of the ketones ie acetone, MEK, etc and while acetone is a carcinogen, the jury is still out on MEK, (no real medically proven studies). Other cements even have Xylene and Tuolene, the main ingredients in Floquil's Dio-sol. If it makes you feel better to wear one , do so.

[dano99a]

I've done both with the wood laser kits and had better results with the air brush but if your quick with the regular brush you can do that too, just be aware that if you go over it to much then parts of it end up darker than others.

As for the cement I use krazyglue because you can use a tiny bit and it's strong, even on wood. So, I wouldn't know if you need a respirator, my guess is "yes"

[Anonymous]

Is it necessary to airbrush AMB Laserkit wood sides, or will regular brushes give you the same result? And when working with plastic solvent cement, would it be wise to wear a 2 stage respirator since plastic cement contains lead? Or if you don't will you look like this when your 60 years old[xx(]?