Athearn RDC drive problem

[emdgp92]

I was given an Athearn RDC-1 a few days ago. It's in pretty good shape--no weathering or damage--it's like new. I'm having a problem getting any traction from it. When power is applied, the motor spins quite freely...but the car doesn't move! I took the shell off, and I can see the shafts (along with the rubber bands) spinning, but apparenly the bands aren't tight enough. If I replace them, will that solve the problem? Thanks in advance.

[Anonymous]

Yes, they should. Athearn sells a package of ten bands for $3.00 thru
your local hobby shop. I don't recall the product #. Should you install
new bands, don't put the body back on until you power up to make sure
the axles go in the same direction. It's easy to reverse the band and then
the axles go in two directions.

Also you can add a gear set. for $12.00 but you can probably get a
P1K for $20.00

Ernst, manufacturer #259, product 3 thru www.walthers.com
I have been think of doing it myself.

[Anonymous]

Yes, but getting new rubber bands from Athearn is a problem. The part number is 90101 Drive Belt. I tried ordering them from my local hobby shop and other dealers with no luck.
Someone might have replaced them with the wrong ones. Too tight or too loose and it won't move. I recall a #35 rubber band is a replacement size. I haven't tried to find any though.
You can try to order them from Athearn at [e-mail]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by gsetter

Yes, but getting new rubber bands from Athearn is a problem.

My LHS probably got mine(three days) from their supplier. If you wish I can order/buy/pay
and ship to you.

Chuck Walsh
[e-mail]

[Anonymous]

Athearn part # 90101, 24 for $3.60 + thru my LHS's supplier.

[emdgp92]

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to try replacing the bands. I currently have a set on order from my LHS.

--Chris

[emdgp92]

I just wanted to say thanks again. My LHS gave me a handful of rubber drive bands. Once I swapped them in, the RDC runs great. Of course now I have to paint it, since it's a bit too clean for a PC unit :o)

[ndbprr]

When my son was in braces I used to swipe his rubber bands. They were perfect. Also if you just power one or two axles it acts more like the real thing on acceleration. You hear lots if noise while it takes some time to get up to speed.

[Anonymous]

emdgp92, Would love to talk to another modeler of the W &W RR.[#offtopic] I know but if you wouldn't mind e-mail me please.

Thanks!

[Anonymous]

Does anyone have any experience with the Ernst gear set for the Athearn RDC? I am kitbashing a few into electic MU cars and was planning to use the Ernst set to get some better operation. The other choice is to use the chasis of a P1K RDC modified to fit the Athearn shell. (I would love to use a SPUD or Flea unit - but can't seem to find any and I think the cost would be a little prohibitive)

I am not using the P1K models for the EMU's as I am also planning to run RDC's into the commuter station - they would look just like RDC's with pantographs. My thought was to use the Athearn shell as it is marketly shorter and then do some body/roof work to hide the RDC roots. We'll see how it turns out.

[darth9x9]

I wouldn't rely on the new rubber bands as they will stretch over time and in less than two years you will have the same problem. I replaced the Athearn drive system with two NWSL power trucks. Now my RDCs run sooooooooooooo sweet - better than my P1Ks.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by darth9x9

I replaced the Athearn drive system with two NWSL power trucks.

How easy is it to do this? And is it possible to use DCC with the NWSL power trucks? I have a old Athearn RDC with bad rubber bands that I'd love to get working on my new DCC layout, but it looks like it'd be a pain to convert.

[AntonioFP45]

QUOTE: Originally posted by emdgp92

I just wanted to say thanks again. My LHS gave me a handful of rubber drive bands. Once I swapped them in, the RDC runs great. Of course now I have to paint it, since it's a bit too clean for a PC unit :o)

Don't forget to install a passenger seat interior as there's none inside. You can buy the IHC interior piece. They look decent once they're painted a neutral color like tan, brown, or dark green.

Cheers!

[darth9x9]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jsalemi

QUOTE: Originally posted by darth9x9

I replaced the Athearn drive system with two NWSL power trucks.

How easy is it to do this? And is it possible to use DCC with the NWSL power trucks? I have a old Athearn RDC with bad rubber bands that I'd love to get working on my new DCC layout, but it looks like it'd be a pain to convert.

Hey Joe,

I installed the NWSL power trucks back in the early 90s. They aren't hard to install if you can follow instructions. I know the older NWSL power trucks were not DCC friendly (difficult to isolate the motor from the frame/chassis). I don't know if the latest generation of NWSL power trucks are DCC friendly or not. Either way, I know I have a chore a head of me to re-replace my trucks when I convert the RDCs to DCC. Hopefully someone here can let us know if NWSL (or someone else) has a DCC power truck.

[mcouvillion]

I was given an Athearn RDC for my birthday several years ago and immediately found out about rubber band drive. Not on my railroad! I ordered TWO Ernst gear sets for the RDC (it is supposed to have only one) because I despise unpowered trucks on powered units. After a little cutting of the frame, and a little finagling of the gear towers, I got that rascal to run. Man, will it pull a bunch of cars. I know the real ones only pulled one or two trailing cars max, but I don't like wimpy engines. With 1.5 mm lensed microbulbs on a constant-intensity lighting circuit, it is impressive to see running.