The clearance-sale strings I have specify that the lamps are 2.5 volt - in the tiny print on the specification panel of the box they came in. As for how much voltage each bulb is going to get, just divide the source voltage by the number of bulbs in the string.
If you can accept yellowish light (typical of residential lighting) you can use about 60% of rated voltage and extend lamp life a lot. Brighter light (industrial structures, or to emphasize interior detailing) calls for 80% and a willingness to accept that lamps will fail more frequently.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Very useful thread. Thanks.
Notice on a lot of light strings there are 3 and sometimes more wires runnign through the string. If you trace them you'll see that every other lamp is connected together. You can also see it if you pull a bulb - the ones next to it will stay on but every other one will go out. The really big strings are often divided into 4 parts.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
jeffrey-wimberly The more lights there are on a string the lower the voltage of the individual bulbs as they all share the 120 volts equally. A 20 light set will have 6 volt bulbs while the bulbs on a 100 light set are rated for 1.2 volts unless it's a split string (two 50 light strings on one plug) whereas the voltage will be 2.4 per bulb.
The more lights there are on a string the lower the voltage of the individual bulbs as they all share the 120 volts equally. A 20 light set will have 6 volt bulbs while the bulbs on a 100 light set are rated for 1.2 volts unless it's a split string (two 50 light strings on one plug) whereas the voltage will be 2.4 per bulb.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
loatharjeffrey-wimberly Just make sure they're the mini lights. I like using the mini rice light strings you get at Xmas. They're a lot smaller and don't throw as much light. Only draw back is they don't have sockets, so it's a bit of a pain when they burn out.
jeffrey-wimberly Just make sure they're the mini lights.
Just make sure they're the mini lights.
I like using the mini rice light strings you get at Xmas. They're a lot smaller and don't throw as much light. Only draw back is they don't have sockets, so it's a bit of a pain when they burn out.
jeffrey-wimberly I put my buildings down on a bead of Elmer's glue. That way if I need to change a bulb I can simply snap the building loose, do what I have to, wet the glue bead with a damp cloth the press the building back down onto it.
I put my buildings down on a bead of Elmer's glue. That way if I need to change a bulb I can simply snap the building loose, do what I have to, wet the glue bead with a damp cloth the press the building back down onto it.
I use extra plastic strips on the roof to get to my lights in my buildings so I just remove the roof and replace the bulbs. So far I've only had to replace one but its easy to do.
4x8 are fun too!!! RussellRail
You're welcome. Have fun.
AWESOME ideas as always, I needed more lights and was waiting now I will not have too thanks to your topic here.
I'm always entertained by your creativity, nice explinantion of how too do this as well, Thanks a million!
All I say to myself is look at Jefferys layout and any method he uses I will definitely NOT do. LOL Anyone following his advice will surely have a retarded looking and lite layout for sure. Thank god this character is not a teacher we'd all be retarded! LOL Looks like RRTrainman is on his way to being a little Jeffery now. *** shame! JKtrains where are you to remind everyone that Jefferys work is missing more than it has?? I miss you man
I like to glue my buildings down so they look like they are a part of the layout's environment and not just sitting on it.
Thus, I have rigged a tube design that allows me to to easily unplug and change burnt out interior light bulbs from below. Even second floor lighting.
(I'd post a picture, but like I said, my buildings are glued down.)
Having had the foresight to design this feature has probably pretty much guaranteed that I will never ever have a light bulb burn out!
Craig
DMW
jeffrey-wimberly RRTrainman My question is do they get to hot in the structure. Not at all. The bulbs are very cool burning. My nieghbors 6 year old boy can clench them in his fist with no discomfort at all even after they've been going for several hours.
RRTrainman My question is do they get to hot in the structure.
Thanks Jeff, now them old lights from Christmas don't have to be thrown away
Hay Jeff,
I like that idea its simple enough to figure. My question is do they get to hot in the structure.
Hi Jeff, then I defer. Obviously recycling of buildings is afoot in your part of the US as well. I saw a couple of Signal Boxes in England converted to restaurants in a similar recycling move,
Regards from Down Under
Trevor www.xdford.digitalzones.com FYI
Looks a bit bright in there but might be the exposure.
Ordinarilly you'd be correct. But these are no longer signal towers but are privately owned. There are several old railroad structures here in Leesville that are rented out as cheap housing.
Hi Jeff,
I am probably sounding as though I am nit picking. I like the effect although I personally use cheap LED's as there is enough glow but your lighting I believe should not be showing through the top level of the signal tower. Because the signalman/operator has to see what is going on outside, there is only minimal lighting ... in some cases extremely minimal lighting ... on the top level so the operator can see where he is going inside, throw levers and switches etc.
I actually plan to do a similar thing in my Atlas signal tower but put a strip of styrene or card with a pin hole or two to let through enough light to suggest activity. I may have misjudged because of your photos actually how much light is there ... I've been defeated by taking photos before too!
Hope this helps you as you've helped a lot of others with your ideas,
Regards
Trevor
Sounds like some good ideas there Chuck. I may make use of one or two of them.
My system resembles that - with a few insignificant differences.
By using four-lamp strings on 6.3 volts (filament transformer) I get a nice yellow glow out of the 2.5v lamps from 50-light strings. I usually only use one socket per building, and simply lengthen the connecting wires. I don't mind having to check four places if one lamp dies, especially since having them run on 60% power should extend their lives considerably.
I bought a couple of cases of 150 light sets on clearance the week after Christmas several years ago, at a cost of a couple of cents a lamp (socket and all.) I rather doubt I'll ever run out of them...
Remember that these bulbs I'm using came from a 20 light string. 120 volts divided by 20 = 6 volts. So it takes 2 bulbs to take 11 volts.Here's a simple table of some common string lengths using 12 volts as the power.35: 120 divided by 35 = 3.4 volts. 4 bulbs.50: 120 divided by 50 = 2.4 volts. 5 bulbs.75: 120 divided by 75 = 1.6 volts. 8 bulbs.100: 120 divided by 100 = 1.2 volts. 10 bulbs.You can see how that works.Here's how I prep the two bulb sets to go into a structure.First I cut the set from the string and leave the joining wire intact. I strip the ends on the other 2 wires. I then tape the sockets together with electrical tape.I then loop the joining wire against the 2 bulb bases and tape it in place. When the set is put into a structure the power wires will be attached to the stripped ends.In this example the bulbs have been separated because it's a two floor structure. One bulb is in the top while the other is in the bottom.Here they've been wired and are being tested.And here they're in operation. The camera makes them seem brighter than they really are.