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Airbrush questions

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Airbrush questions
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 23, 2004 6:49 PM
I am thinking about buying an airbru***his summer since now there are enough models I'd like to have but would need to be custom painted out there. I am going to buy a Paasche model VL, since the Harbor Freight Tools catalogue has them for $60 instead of Micro-Mark's $100. Mainly I am wondering about this question: We have a large Craftsman air compressor, and my dad says that for airbrushing he could turn the maximum pressure down. Will this be a safe stand-in until I have enough money to buy a silent model compressor? I wouldn't want to buy an airbrush and 10 undecorated cars only to find out i couldn't use them for another year. Also, does solvent based paint have any advantage over acrylic paint? And do you have any ideas on how to build your own spray booth? There's not one way I can spend $300 on one of those things right now. I also am going to get a book on airbrushing so I'll have an idea of how to use it. Thanks in advance.[:p]
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 23, 2004 8:16 PM
QUOTE: ...We have a large Craftsman air compressor, and my dad says that for airbrushing he could turn the maximum pressure down. Will this be a safe stand-in...

Yes. That's what I use. You should also add an air drier to catch any condensation comming out of the air line. I also have a pressure regulator on the outlet side of the drier, but it isn't needed. Instead of buying another compressor, buy a spray booth. I found mine on eBay for $100.
QUOTE: Also, does solvent based paint have any advantage over acrylic paint?

I'll get a lot of argument on this, but solvent base paint doesn't dry as fast on the air brush, so I don't have to clean it as quickly. With acrylic, clean the air brush between coats by running thinner through it. I always keep another bottle of thinner ready to attach to the air brush. I find acylic dries fast and is difficult to clean the air brush once it dries. I still use both equally. I highly recomend you buy micro cleaning brushes to clean your air brush. And clean it immediately after each time you use it. Also keep extra gaskets and seals on hand. I keep all my air brush equipment in a plastic tool box and only for the air brush.
QUOTE: And do you have any ideas on how to build your own spray booth?

Don't use a range hood. The motor will only get gunked up after time and I wouldn't use it with flammable solvents. Use a squirrel cage type fan. Maybe a bath room exhaust fan.

P.S.
Here's a link to another post about opinions on air brushes. http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13311
P.S.S.
I found a web site that shows how to make a spray booth out of a cardboard box and a shop vac. It's cheap and cheesey and maybe a little dangerous on the side.
http://www.theshootersspot.com/ then click on "PROJECTS" on the left.
  • Member since
    October 2002
  • From: Columbus, OH
  • 492 posts
Airbrush questions
Posted by dano99a on Wednesday, March 24, 2004 10:10 AM
The compressor you have should be fine but the pressure needs to come down to 40 as that compressor is probably for filling car tires. Having a water trap and pressure gauage does help. The water trap is most needed so your brush won't "SPIT" water during a paint job. If you get a new compressor in the future get one with a tank and auto shut-off. The small ones that run constantly are nice and affordable and do work great but, I have burned up 3 of them over the course of 12 years using airbrushes.

BUT really you should put the money in the brush first. My suggestion DO NOT buy a paache air bru***hey are JUNK.

Badger makes some really nice brushes, if you want my ultimate suggestion of the best airbur***o buy: IWATA. Just be sure to get the one that is made for thicker medium like acrylic paint. You can learn more about them here:

http://www.arttalk.com/iwata/index.htm

Iwata brushes can be found at most art supply stores, and some hobby shops.

As for paint:
I agree with "gsetter" solvent based paint lasts longer in the cup BUT you gotta use toxic chemicals to clean it. My advise, clean between coats regardless of the kind of paint.
I use all water based paints and I clean my brushes with 91% iso. rubbing alcohol between coats. And give it a good cleaning when done and before you start painting anything.

Again I agree with "gsetter" always, always, always have spare parts (gaskets, tips, needles etc) handy for your brush. Tips wear out or become permently clogged if you forget to clean it, the needles are vital, if you ding the tip of one it will mess up the spray pattern of the brush (if it's a fine tip needle that is). With my iwata's I've only had to replace the needles and one tip over 8 years of using them but I religously clean my brushes.

Spray booth:
If your using solvent based paints (get one) but do heed "gsetter's" advice about flammable paints. If your in the basement like most of us and have a gas furnace BE VERY CAREFULL!! Hence the reason I use water based paints. With water based paints I just section off the area I'm working in with drop cloths hung from the ceiling and open a small window so the over spray doesn't get on my layout.

Lastly:
Get a air mask for you, unless of course you like toxic chemicals in your body. Even with water based paints, without a mask you'll blow your nose the next day only to see the color you were painting the night before come out your nose. [:)]

Happy painting!

DANO
C&O lives on!!!  
Visit my railfan community site: http://www.crtraincrew.com

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