Terry, good work! I think you came impressively close; even if Walthers made a commercial kit of this structure they might not come any closer on that door. This is an excellent example of Allen McClelland's guiding principle of "good enough." Contrary to how some have characterized that phrase, it is not an invitation to sloppy workmanship or out of scale modeling. Rather it is a directive to get things done and get the priorities in order. You didn't compromise to the point of creating something that would bug you forever. It is recognizably similar to the actual door. You didn't agonize over it for years but got right to it and it did not meaningfully delay the completion of the project.
Stated another way, there is simply no point in making one door the only perfect thing on a layout, unless for some reason that is what you really want.
Dave Nelson
Try Lowe's or the Home Depot or your local Do it best center...
Modeling the N&W freelanced at the height of their steam era in HO.
Daniel G.
"Need Help Finding a Door".
Huh. People are showing me the door all the time. Huh.
Seriously -- I thought your solution was quite effective.
Terry,
Walthers has a cornerstone series building called the "first street warehouse" that has windows and doors similar to those but the model has been retired. I have a bunch of them that i probably won't use. The kit came with two different window and door styles but they were arched at the top but with a bit of styrene, can be corrected. If you happen to show up for the layout tour and can use them, I'll turn you on to them....chuck
Ok here's what i ended up with
This is a drawing of the door i was looking for
After lots of help with links to various sites
Thank you All Very Much !
I was unable to find a 9 pane 3ft 10 inch wide door
but i did find out if I cut the bottom section out of an 18 pane engine house window
and installed a wood panel
it would fit right in
Not perfect but close enough
Funny part is at the normal viewing angle you can't see the door anyhow
but that's ok i know it's there
TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
R. T. POTEET wrote:GBTS!!!
LOL I heard you the first time !
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
orsonroy wrote: Kitbash; it's easy.Use Tichy's door #8050Cut out the vertical strip in the window, and replace it with clear styrene scribed with the thinner-profile ones on the proto door you want to model. Paint the scribed lines the color of the door, glue the clear styrene into the door, and you're done.
Kitbash; it's easy.
Use Tichy's door #8050
Cut out the vertical strip in the window, and replace it with clear styrene scribed with the thinner-profile ones on the proto door you want to model. Paint the scribed lines the color of the door, glue the clear styrene into the door, and you're done.
Good thought Ray but i think the tichy door is too narrow
The proto type door measures 3ft 10 1/2 inches wide
Ray Breyer
Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943
CandO Fan wrote:Thanks Wayne I have some left over round house windows so that may be the route to takeI'm just being lazy hoping for something already made
Thanks Wayne I have some left over round house windows so that may be the route to take
I'm just being lazy hoping for something already made
I know what you mean. I enjoy constructing those little things that aren't commercially available, but sometimes it's nice to be able to save that time and effort for something else.
Wayne
doctorwayne wrote: You only need two of these doors, so it shouldn't be too difficult to kitbash them. You need to find a window that you can butcher for the 9 pane part - I believe that Grandt Line has several large industrial-type windows that might provide suitable fodder - you'll need to find one that you can cut the 9 pane section from its centre, along with a perimeter: in other words, a window at least 5 panes wide and 5 panes high. The size of the resultant 9 pane window will determine the size that you'll need to make the door to accommodate it. Cut a door "blank" from .015" or .020" sheet styrene, then cut out the area where the window will go. Cut a second door "blank from .005" or .010" sheet styrene, then cut the window opening slightly smaller than the opening which you cut in the first "blank". Also, cut out the panel areas in the lower part of this thinner blank, so that the other one will show through when you laminate the thin one to the outside face of the thicker one. The window opening in the thin "face blank" should prevent the cut-down 9 pane window, when inserted from the inside of the door, from falling through the opening, yet still leave a slight amount of the window casting's perimeter frame showing around the outer edges of the window. Add a suitable door knob and you're done. I'm looking at an older Grandt Line Catalogue, and their #5203 Rio Grande Southern-style windows look like they might work even better than the industrial windows- they're a double window, each half a 9-over-2 style. You could cut away the main frame from the top, sides, and middle, and lop-off the double panes on the bottom. I'm guessing that the size should be pretty close to what you require.If that one isn't suitable, check out #5010 Roundhouse Windows - they're 60"x120" high, making the panes just under one foot square.Wayne
You only need two of these doors, so it shouldn't be too difficult to kitbash them. You need to find a window that you can butcher for the 9 pane part - I believe that Grandt Line has several large industrial-type windows that might provide suitable fodder - you'll need to find one that you can cut the 9 pane section from its centre, along with a perimeter: in other words, a window at least 5 panes wide and 5 panes high. The size of the resultant 9 pane window will determine the size that you'll need to make the door to accommodate it. Cut a door "blank" from .015" or .020" sheet styrene, then cut out the area where the window will go. Cut a second door "blank from .005" or .010" sheet styrene, then cut the window opening slightly smaller than the opening which you cut in the first "blank". Also, cut out the panel areas in the lower part of this thinner blank, so that the other one will show through when you laminate the thin one to the outside face of the thicker one. The window opening in the thin "face blank" should prevent the cut-down 9 pane window, when inserted from the inside of the door, from falling through the opening, yet still leave a slight amount of the window casting's perimeter frame showing around the outer edges of the window. Add a suitable door knob and you're done.
I'm looking at an older Grandt Line Catalogue, and their #5203 Rio Grande Southern-style windows look like they might work even better than the industrial windows- they're a double window, each half a 9-over-2 style. You could cut away the main frame from the top, sides, and middle, and lop-off the double panes on the bottom. I'm guessing that the size should be pretty close to what you require.
If that one isn't suitable, check out #5010 Roundhouse Windows - they're 60"x120" high, making the panes just under one foot square.
Geared Steam wrote: Have you checked Rusty Stumps?http://www.rustystumps.com/products.asp?id=2 GS
Have you checked Rusty Stumps?
http://www.rustystumps.com/products.asp?id=2
GS
no i hadn't but thanks for the link
sticky back windows is a neat idea
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."-Albert Einstein
http://gearedsteam.blogspot.com/
dknelson wrote: Other makes to check out are SS Ltd., Alexander, Durango Press, Micro Engineering, and Pikestuff.Unfortunately the Walthers catalog does not always picture every part.Looking at the Pikestuff portion of the Walthers catalog, what about their Door with 3 panel Window, 541-1104? It is not perfect match but using styrene to create the 9 window top would be a lot easier with, essentially, half the work already done for you. Dave Nelson
Other makes to check out are SS Ltd., Alexander, Durango Press, Micro Engineering, and Pikestuff.
Unfortunately the Walthers catalog does not always picture every part.
Looking at the Pikestuff portion of the Walthers catalog, what about their Door with 3 panel Window, 541-1104? It is not perfect match but using styrene to create the 9 window top would be a lot easier with, essentially, half the work already done for you.
Thanks Dave I did check Alexander but i will check the others
The pike stuff one may be a posibility if i do as Mac. suggests and make my own
loathar wrote: have you tried looking at Jaks? They have a bunch of detail stuff like that.http://www.jaksind.com/Page/ss_main.htmlJust have to search around a bit...
have you tried looking at Jaks? They have a bunch of detail stuff like that.http://www.jaksind.com/Page/ss_main.html
Just have to search around a bit...
Thanks for the link but no luck
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
I started a new project scratch building the C&O station at Cotton Hill
Two of the doors on the front side of the station are unusual
They are much wider than normal and have 9 window panes
I've looked at the Tichy Trains Web Site and the Grant line web site but haven't found any
thing even close
Does any one know where to find a door similar ?