Prototype yard switches range in the #7 to #10 size. Main track switches tend to be in the #14 or larger. A common practice is to use a switch about 1/2 the prototype size (selectively compressed) so #8 siding switches and #5-6 yard switches are common. If you are going to use #12's on the main line (and I would test one of those for reasons discussed in previous posts) I wouldn't go below a #6 in the yards. I would be afraid a #4 or #5 switch would look way sharp and toylike next to the #12's on the main.
the larger the switch numbers, the longer the lead the larger the yard becomes, the fewer cars the tracks can hold and the longer the switcher has to go to shove cars in the tracks, slowing down the switching. If you do decide to go with #8's on the lead, I would suggest a compund lead to shorten the distance and speed the switching.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
FAT TRACKS JIGS are only economical when doing a multiplicity of a single switch.
How many #12's are you going to build - for that matter, how many do you need?
#4's work for most yards & #6's for most mainlines, today. #8's are hi-speed and take up precious room. 'N' gauge suppliers have their own perameters - often in Metric. If I were going to buy a single 'Fast Tracks' Jig, I would look at a #5.
NMRA recommends 2.5 X equipment length. Large manufacturers aim for the simple plywood board crowd, figuring most want to just run trains. It really boils down to your equipment!
You'll always do better with more generous radii. Some in 'N' say it's 19" RADII.
2-8-8-0 wrote: Hello all. I am going to take a stab at building my own turnouts for my layout, and would like to use the Fast Tracks jigs. I will use the No 12 for mains when it is released in July, but for my yard and branchlines, would No 6 be large enough? The jigs are expensive, i am modeling in N, and the extra inch a larger turnout uses just isnt an issue to me, i just want solid trackwork! So, as i said, im gonna buy 2 jigs, one will be No 12. 6 or 8 or what do you reccomend for the other? Steam era layout, 8 coupled engines will need to operate through the turnouts. Thanks!Tim
Hello all.
I am going to take a stab at building my own turnouts for my layout, and would like to use the Fast Tracks jigs. I will use the No 12 for mains when it is released in July, but for my yard and branchlines, would No 6 be large enough? The jigs are expensive, i am modeling in N, and the extra inch a larger turnout uses just isnt an issue to me, i just want solid trackwork! So, as i said, im gonna buy 2 jigs, one will be No 12. 6 or 8 or what do you reccomend for the other? Steam era layout, 8 coupled engines will need to operate through the turnouts. Thanks!
Tim
I've never handlaid in N. But I do know from experience in HO that very high frog #s put a premium on precision track work. The potential problems come from the variety of wheel tread widths and flange profiles. The NMRA standards (actually any track and wheel standard) require a minimum tread width to work well in large frog turnouts. The wing rails at the throat must take over wheel support to avoid wheel drop crossing the flangeway. So wider wheel treads have more support from the wing rail.
Meantime, the higher the frog #, the wider the flangeway the wheel must cross, even if the minimum flangeway spec is used. If your turnout does not use minimum gauge (and hence minimum flangeway width), wheel drop problems will be more pronounced. Narrower than spec wheel treads (code 88 wheels in HO for better appearance) will likely drop into the flangeway on larger frog #s.
If N has the same variety of wheel tread widths as HO, you will see similar problems. At the same time, the minimum flangeway width is determined by the widest flange width. So you need a matched set of wheel and track standards with consistent adherence to the standard, especially for large frog #s.
One reason Proto87 wheels will not run on NMRA turnouts is the narrow tread of the P87 wheels. And the reason NMRA wheels can't run on Proto87 turnouts is that the flange is too thick.
Fred W
Tim, I run HO but I run a LOT of big steam so I have tried ALL the #'s I am using WITH no problems: WOW scratch building in "N" gage must have good eyes!!!
Crossovers #6, Yard #5 and #6, High speed sidings at passenger stations #8. I ONLY used #4 in areas where my 4-8-8-4 and 2-6-6-6-2 would NOT go. I used a #6 3 Way at the yard throat and #8 Double slip which I took out, no I am sorry I did.
Hope this helps.