A friend of mine and fellow club member just purchased a new Mantua 2-6-6-2 articulated loco. It runs, but there is a lot of what appears to be gear vibration in it coming from the front driver engine. Is this normal for this locomotive?
I was disappointed that it didn't run really smooth, but he is really tickled with it. If it were mine, I would return it. He is going to keep it.
Comments welcome.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
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Gary M. Collins gmcrailgNOSPAM@gmail.com
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"Common Sense, Ain't!" -- G. M. Collins
http://fhn.site90.net
Athearn has brought out a 4-6-6-4 and a 4-8-8-4. Model Power has re-released the old Mantua/Tyco 2-6-6-2, and Bachmann Spectrum has released a 2-6-6-2. I am not aware of any other 2-6-6-2 models in the past few years....
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
If you mean Athearn's 4-6-6-4, the only negative thing I've ever heard of is the MRC electronics and sound. If you were to replace the MRC DCC and sound with Tsunami DCC and sound, you'd have a perfect steam engine.
If you mean 2-6-6-2, then you're probably thinking of either the Bachmann or Mantua models. Both are very good steam engines (or I should say all 3, since Mantua makes 2 different ones), and Bachmann's quality control is the only negative that comes to mind for any of the 2-6-6-2s.
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Gandydancer:
If I recall correctly, the Mantua 2-6-6-2 has a fixed (non-swiveling) second set of drivers, and has a rod and universal from the rear set of drivers to the front. If the front set of drivers is vibrating, it probably means that the universal connecting the two sets of drivers needs a little adjusting forward or back. It should be a pretty easy fix.
Tom
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
In the early 1990's somebody did a good article in MR about 'upgrading' the Mantua 2-6-6-2, adding details and remotoring it (for ones that came out before Mantua started using Sagami can motors in 1989-90) etc. One thing he showed how to do was change the plastic/rubber tube to NWSL ball and socket connections. Looked like a lot of work but apparently was worth the effort.
Sorry I can't remember the exact month and year of the MR issue, but I do remember the 2-6-6-2 was on the main coverpic.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
Darth Santa Fe wrote:Ah, so it's the Mantua. I believe the front engine driveshaft is connected to the rear engine with a piece of rubber tubing, which can be incredibly hard to adjust properly (although it can be done). If the piece of tubing can be replaced with an NWSL universal, it should run smooth as silk!
Darth: Rubber tubing? Oops, my bad, I had assumed it was a universal. In that case, I'd certainly agree that replacing it with a NWSL universal would be the better option (and also easier on the motor when the loco goes around curves).
Gandydancer: NWSL makes universals to fit almost any motor shaft, so the refit should be a simple one. I've replaced all of my articulated drives with NWSL with very little trouble.
gandydancer19 A friend of mine and fellow club member just purchased a new Mantua 2-6-6-2 articulated loco. It runs, but there is a lot of what appears to be gear vibration in it coming from the front driver engine. Is this normal for this locomotive? I was disappointed that it didn't run really smooth, but he is really tickled with it. If it were mine, I would return it. He is going to keep it. Comments welcome.
It may be "normal" , but can be fixed easily.
I have 3 of these, and I have them all running well. The secret is the connection between the 1st and 2nd gearbox. When adjusted properly, they run very close to brass locos. I used rubber tubing to connect the motor and then the front and rear gearboxes. I worked in a hospital where plastic tubing abounds for IVs, nasal canulas, oxygen monitors and many other applications for adults and children. You need the right sized tubing that slips on the drive shaft of the front and rear gearboxes. The new locos likely had appropriate tubing when purchased. When correct tubing is found, you're not done. The other critical move is to glue the tubing onto the drive shaft. Glue it on the motor shaft to rear gearbox shaft, then the rear gearbox to the front gearbox. Be patient and let it set a little while (an hour or so). If it runs good for a short test, then let it sit overnight. I used Fix All Adhesive by Super Glue from Dollar Tree. It is really a contact cement, and grips better and better with time, to the point it must be pulled off with some force. Also, once on it stays where you put it. You may have to play with it and remove it and try again. My locos don't have anything holding the front engine to the boiler, so I pick them up by the front and rear driver sets. This connection is why your front end is bucking. I had the same problem. It seems likely your loco's tubing that came with it will work when spaced properly. Experiment and see what spacing you need for smooth running; then glue it and you probably won't have to do so again. I ran one today and saw the bucking a little bit. This sounds mickey mouse, but drop the loco drivers onto your workbench once or twice from about 2 inches high. If that doesn't fix it, gently raise the front engine up and down to work the rubber tubing joint. These maneuvers almost always work. The glue remains flexible to some degree and it works. I have done 3 of these locos and this works. They even run quietly when correctly adjusted. They are quieter than PFM 2-6-6-2's , very low tech fix. The connection from the motor shaft to the rear gearbox isn't as finicky as the front gear boxes. When you run the motor and rear engine with the front engine removed, then you've got the rear connecton. Then move to fixing the front engine connection.
They run so well I searched for Mantua gear boxes on ebay and Mantua and couldn't find them. I suspect they are double idler boxes. I tried multiple sizes of rubber tubing. They fit pretty snugly on the drive train axles, but need glue to keep them in place and gripppp, or you will get the front enging bucking. The first one is the only white metal kit I EVER got to run worth a hoot, and they are nearly as good as brass (better than some I have). Spend your time on the front connection and you will be rewarded. Adjust by minute moves forward or backward of the rubber connecting tubing . Eventually you will find the sweet spot. Glue it there. Pull off the front engine, apply glue, gently put the tubing back on, not moving the tubing on the rear gearbox.
Addemdum: Dollar Tree Fix All Adhesive by Super Glue. Always in stock and the longer it sits, the stronger it gets
DR JIM FITEIt may be "normal" , but can be fixed easily.
Hey, uh, Jim ... you seem to have dug up a 10 year old thread here...
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
I have one Mantua 2-6-6-2, with a tender.
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Mine had problems with the front and trailing trucks (the 2's) that would not roll. They just dragged down the rails.
The metal these are made of is very brittle. Both of mine had many hairline cracks. There is a thin brass strip that holds the wheels in and they were caked with thick grease.
It was a difficult process to get these cleaned, straightened out, and free rolling, but now it runs smooth as silk.
The model has other minor problems as well.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Perhaps one should view these locomotives as kits that come temporarily assembled for convenient shipping.
Probably true of many other "kits", too.
Ed
Since I never saw that, I didn't dig up anything old. I'm not as well read as you after 60+ years of modeling. The rear part of the rubber tubing needs to be epoxied onto the rear gearbox axle and the front tube should be contact cemented onto the front gearbox axle because it is flexible and strong. It never gets hard and paint thinner softens it. Contact cement won't hold to the rear gearbox axle which is too short.