markpierce wrote: twhite wrote: Several light shots of the paint, allowing each coat to dry for at LEAST an hour, will get you a good, even coat. It should also keep the paint from running under the masking, as the paint is almost dry when it hits the model anyway. I'd let each color dry overnight before re-masking and spraying on the next color. It usually takes me about three days to a week to paint a loco--and that's mainly BLACK, LOL! So don't spray on another color until the paint has had a chance to really CURE to the model. If I'm going to paint a loco, I always make sure I've got at least several other projects to work on while I'm waiting for the paint to dry. It's a long process, but if you take your time, you can do a good job even with a spray can. Tom Gee, Tom, you are able to get away with only one day's drying time before taping for the next coat of paint? I normally wait a week for the paint to cure. Perhaps you put the model out all day at the patio in the oven-like summer air of the Great Valley Mark
twhite wrote: Several light shots of the paint, allowing each coat to dry for at LEAST an hour, will get you a good, even coat. It should also keep the paint from running under the masking, as the paint is almost dry when it hits the model anyway. I'd let each color dry overnight before re-masking and spraying on the next color. It usually takes me about three days to a week to paint a loco--and that's mainly BLACK, LOL! So don't spray on another color until the paint has had a chance to really CURE to the model. If I'm going to paint a loco, I always make sure I've got at least several other projects to work on while I'm waiting for the paint to dry. It's a long process, but if you take your time, you can do a good job even with a spray can. Tom
Several light shots of the paint, allowing each coat to dry for at LEAST an hour, will get you a good, even coat. It should also keep the paint from running under the masking, as the paint is almost dry when it hits the model anyway. I'd let each color dry overnight before re-masking and spraying on the next color. It usually takes me about three days to a week to paint a loco--and that's mainly BLACK, LOL! So don't spray on another color until the paint has had a chance to really CURE to the model.
If I'm going to paint a loco, I always make sure I've got at least several other projects to work on while I'm waiting for the paint to dry. It's a long process, but if you take your time, you can do a good job even with a spray can.
Tom
Gee, Tom, you are able to get away with only one day's drying time before taping for the next coat of paint? I normally wait a week for the paint to cure. Perhaps you put the model out all day at the patio in the oven-like summer air of the Great Valley
Mark
Mark:
You found me out, LOL! Actually, I do all my painting outside of the garage, and you're right--this dry, hot air here in the Valley does a pretty fast cure. Did I say just ONE day? Sorry, I thought I said two between color coats. Actually, the ATSF silver I use for the striping and cylinder heads and roller-bearing covers is a water-base paint, so I can usually apply that within a day after the basic black. But I do have to wait several days before I apply the graphite, which is hand-mixed from Floquil paints.
I've tried using an air-brush--in fact I have a pretty terrific Paasche that's just sitting in a box in the garage. For some strange reason, holding that little bitty gun between my fingers isn't nearly as comfortable--or accurate for me at least--as my hand wrapped around a spray-can. To each his own, I guess. Besides, those guns just don't seem to be designed for left-handers. At least not THIS left-hander .
Tom View my layout photos! http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm310/TWhite-014/Rio%20Grande%20Yuba%20River%20Sub One can NEVER have too many Articulateds!
Rotorranch wrote: Flashwave wrote: Well, your engines are also quite a bit longer than mine, but this one's been a few weeks, Will watch distance on future engines. Thanks! Is the sand color ends too much? Would it look better in just the boyd red up top?Flash...that makes absolutely no sense. The length of a loco doesn't effect paint. I'd strip it and try it again, with a couple light coats. The first coat is the most important.Remember, light coats, almost to the point of dry spray.Rotor
Flashwave wrote: Well, your engines are also quite a bit longer than mine, but this one's been a few weeks, Will watch distance on future engines. Thanks! Is the sand color ends too much? Would it look better in just the boyd red up top?
Well, your engines are also quite a bit longer than mine, but this one's been a few weeks, Will watch distance on future engines. Thanks! Is the sand color ends too much? Would it look better in just the boyd red up top?
Flash...that makes absolutely no sense. The length of a loco doesn't effect paint.
I'd strip it and try it again, with a couple light coats. The first coat is the most important.
Remember, light coats, almost to the point of dry spray.
Rotor
More surface to paint. twas a bad bit of humor.
We might strip it, but those were light coats. I have painted cars before.
-Morgan
Jake: How often does the train go by? Elwood: So often you won't even notice ...
Flashwave--
Me again. Thought I'd post a couple of photos of a couple of locos I painted recently--yup, with a spray can. I used Grimy Black for the basic coat, and sprayed it on lightly for about three coats, allowing each coat to dry for at least two hours before re-spraying. Then when I was satisfied that I'd caught everything, I let it cure for about two days before hand-brushing on the graphite on the firebox and smokebox. The cyinder heads and striping were done with ATSF 'Old Silver' (the Graphite is a mixture of Floquil graphite and bright silver). Then after THAT had 'cured' again for a couple of days, I sprayed on Glosscote for the decaling, letting that set for a day. Then gave the locos an overspray of Dullcote and re-assembled them. Total for each loco--about a week. But I kind of like the results. If you take your time, you CAN do it with a spray can.
PS: To answer the question about the ends of the loco, I kind of like it the way it is.
lvanhen wrote: R. T. POTEET wrote: Flashwave wrote:. . . . . . . . . . . Bad jokes aside, here's my first attempts at a Free Lance scheme . . . . . . . . . .And I promise to never again advocate that someone paint-it-themselves!AMEN!!
R. T. POTEET wrote: Flashwave wrote:. . . . . . . . . . . Bad jokes aside, here's my first attempts at a Free Lance scheme . . . . . . . . . .And I promise to never again advocate that someone paint-it-themselves!
Flashwave wrote:. . . . . . . . . . . Bad jokes aside, here's my first attempts at a Free Lance scheme . . . . . . . . . .
AMEN!!
Meaning what?
twhite wrote: Flashwave wrote: Bad jokes aside, here's my first attempts at a Free Lance scheme. Yes, I masked it, and yes I used spraycans. (Except I forgot to color the detailing parts.) Actually, I had to hand paint touch up, because no matter how hard I burnished,the intermediate blue (Polar Express Blue) and the dark blue were bound and determined to screw each other up. Soon (I can dream) to be lettered #23 (BL 2 third purchased) is Half Moon's first of the cotton candy scheme, resulting from a contest. It will stand as a reminder of my first attempt, so future engines don't end up looking so bad.Feedback is appreciated, preferably on the design of the scheme (IE how it would look if all or most had gone well), not on my already known novice masking skills, but I can do that in another thread if need beFlashwave:I like the scheme. Here's a few hints from an old spray-can painter (I've never had good luck with an air-brush for some reason). Don't get too close to the model when you spray it. Several light shots of the paint, allowing each coat to dry for at LEAST an hour, will get you a good, even coat. It should also keep the paint from running under the masking, as the paint is almost dry when it hits the model anyway. I'd let each color dry overnight before re-masking and spraying on the next color. It usually takes me about three days to a week to paint a loco--and that's mainly BLACK, LOL! So don't spray on another color until the paint has had a chance to really CURE to the model. If I'm going to paint a loco, I always make sure I've got at least several other projects to work on while I'm waiting for the paint to dry. It's a long process, but if you take your time, you can do a good job even with a spray can. But remember--just don't get TOO CLOSE.But that's a neat color scheme. Sure let's you know the train's coming!Tom
Flashwave wrote: Bad jokes aside, here's my first attempts at a Free Lance scheme. Yes, I masked it, and yes I used spraycans. (Except I forgot to color the detailing parts.) Actually, I had to hand paint touch up, because no matter how hard I burnished,the intermediate blue (Polar Express Blue) and the dark blue were bound and determined to screw each other up. Soon (I can dream) to be lettered #23 (BL 2 third purchased) is Half Moon's first of the cotton candy scheme, resulting from a contest. It will stand as a reminder of my first attempt, so future engines don't end up looking so bad.Feedback is appreciated, preferably on the design of the scheme (IE how it would look if all or most had gone well), not on my already known novice masking skills, but I can do that in another thread if need be
Bad jokes aside, here's my first attempts at a Free Lance scheme. Yes, I masked it, and yes I used spraycans. (Except I forgot to color the detailing parts.) Actually, I had to hand paint touch up, because no matter how hard I burnished,the intermediate blue (Polar Express Blue) and the dark blue were bound and determined to screw each other up. Soon (I can dream) to be lettered #23 (BL 2 third purchased) is Half Moon's first of the cotton candy scheme, resulting from a contest. It will stand as a reminder of my first attempt, so future engines don't end up looking so bad.
Feedback is appreciated, preferably on the design of the scheme (IE how it would look if all or most had gone well), not on my already known novice masking skills, but I can do that in another thread if need be
Flashwave:
I like the scheme. Here's a few hints from an old spray-can painter (I've never had good luck with an air-brush for some reason). Don't get too close to the model when you spray it. Several light shots of the paint, allowing each coat to dry for at LEAST an hour, will get you a good, even coat. It should also keep the paint from running under the masking, as the paint is almost dry when it hits the model anyway. I'd let each color dry overnight before re-masking and spraying on the next color. It usually takes me about three days to a week to paint a loco--and that's mainly BLACK, LOL! So don't spray on another color until the paint has had a chance to really CURE to the model.
But remember--just don't get TOO CLOSE.
But that's a neat color scheme. Sure let's you know the train's coming!
Here's from 6/14/08 running session.
Wildwood.
K.O.
Whiteside Crossover.
Wauhatchie.
-Dave
Flashwave wrote: MisterBeasley wrote:Geez! 30 bucks a gallon? Ain't it time for a Hybrid?
MisterBeasley wrote:
Geez! 30 bucks a gallon? Ain't it time for a Hybrid?
That old Ford is a hybrid, believe it or not. Half the time it ran on gasoline, and the other half the time you had to get out and push it!
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
This caboose was my latest work. Here's the caboose hop with two RS 27's.
Wolfgang
Pueblo & Salt Lake RR
Come to us http://www.westportterminal.de my videos my blog
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
MisterBeasley wrote: Heartland Division CBandQ wrote:That's a great service garage, Mr. B!!!Thanks. Any place where I can get gas for 29.9 and an ice-cold Dr Pepper is all right with me. Even back in the 1930's, when the pumps were different and folks drank Moxie, it was known as as an honest shop.
Heartland Division CBandQ wrote:That's a great service garage, Mr. B!!!
Thanks. Any place where I can get gas for 29.9 and an ice-cold Dr Pepper is all right with me.
Even back in the 1930's, when the pumps were different and folks drank Moxie, it was known as as an honest shop.
I think 18-cents-a-gallon gas, as posted at this station in Sheep Ranch, California (population 32) is a better deal as photographed on June 9, 2008
I'm probably late for WPF this week, but thought I'd post a late shot of my cattle train heading downgrade on Yuba Pass. The lead cattle car is one of those BLI's with the stock noises--LOUD stock noises, LOL! Between that and the 'grindy' little 2-6-6-0 hauling the train, it's one really NOISY bovine express.
GREAT photos this week, all. There's some terrific modeling going on from the forum members
ngartshore350 wrote: Hi All!Just some progress shots of the station. Excuse the mess, work in progress. The man holes in the platform are actually over all the screws holding down the platform to allow it to be removed at a later date (if required). I will cover the manholes with checker-plate covers. Then soon the painting will begin! Hopefully!*Snip*Regards,Nige.
Hi All!
Just some progress shots of the station. Excuse the mess, work in progress. The man holes in the platform are actually over all the screws holding down the platform to allow it to be removed at a later date (if required). I will cover the manholes with checker-plate covers. Then soon the painting will begin! Hopefully!
*Snip*
Regards,
Nige.
Cool. Is there more to the platofrm roof though? it seems reel short for that long of a platform
Test run with a passenger train!
November 2007
Lots of great photos this weekend. Thanks to all.
The insulation is going into the garage loft now, then drywall, then I can move the layout and start work on the extension. So no pictures from me this weekend, but will hopefully have some soon.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
MisterBeasley wrote: Great shots, everyone. I guess the approach of summer (in the Northern Hemisphere, anyway) hasn't slowed down people's enthusiasm. I've been working on the Walthers Ice House kit. The "big house" isn't fully assembled yet, but this is how the loading platform looks: Texaco was my choice for the gas station. I like the colors, and the old "Fire Chief" logo.The garage building itself is an old wood structure that showed up in a yard sale "box of trains" when I was a kid. I added lighting and some interior details. A lot of my gas station stuff is from JL Innovative, by the way.
Great shots, everyone. I guess the approach of summer (in the Northern Hemisphere, anyway) hasn't slowed down people's enthusiasm. I've been working on the Walthers Ice House kit. The "big house" isn't fully assembled yet, but this is how the loading platform looks:
Texaco was my choice for the gas station. I like the colors, and the old "Fire Chief" logo.
The garage building itself is an old wood structure that showed up in a yard sale "box of trains" when I was a kid. I added lighting and some interior details. A lot of my gas station stuff is from JL Innovative, by the way.
AggroJones wrote: Some friggin fine work going on here. Good show! Especially mikelhh.
Some friggin fine work going on here. Good show! Especially mikelhh.
Absolutly Ditto. I think I'll scrap the 4x8 for a 2' 6" by 6' shelf layout to be built in my current room.
Sawyer Berry
Clemson University c/o 2018
Building a protolanced industrial park layout
OlavM wrote:Hello howmus!I am looking at that nice gas station and noticed the industrial buildings at the left. Are they Walthers Cornerstone 3-in-1 buildings/ modulars?Could you please show me a closer picture of that scene? I have three of those sets and need an inspiration on how to put them together...Olav in Norway
Hello howmus!
I am looking at that nice gas station and noticed the industrial buildings at the left. Are they Walthers Cornerstone 3-in-1 buildings/ modulars?
Could you please show me a closer picture of that scene? I have three of those sets and need an inspiration on how to put them together...
Olav in Norway
My pleasure Sir! Yes most of the buildings in the town were made from the Walthers Cornerstone Modulars. They were built to fit the available space and create a (hopefully) believable scene. The storefront buliding is also a Walthers kit.
Lots more photos of the area being created here: http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h259/slow_rr/SLOW_RR/?start=144
and on the next page of the photobucket account. (page 11)
BTW, here is the town at night:
Ray Seneca Lake, Ontario, and Western R.R. (S.L.O.&W.) in HO
We'll get there sooner or later!
Well, when that package arrived, any other plans I had went right out the window. I quickly surveyed the decal supply, and found I had enough steam era WM decals to do 5 hoppers in the old round herald. Out came the giant can of Oxide Red, and what had been Norfolk Southern quickly became fodder for the car shops at Elkins.
I used ancient and venerable Northeast Decal sets I've had in my possession for over 20 years. A little schpritz of decal finish and they were as good as new! One mistake I made was to apply the Dullcote out on the porch... it was pretty humid last night, and the paint hadn't fully cured. A couple of weathering washes will fix that white haze. Although, it did give me a good "fade coat" to start with.
Once completed I pulled out the handful of steam era rolling stock I have and staged a little "Photo Freight"... A little manipulation of the color balance, and it's the fabulous '50's again!
This is a little preview of our proposed "Steam Night"...Have a great Father's Day everyone...
Lee
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net