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loathar wrote: I think a lot of modelers are missing out on that satisfaction because they think this stuff is harder than it is, or because they tried once and had problems. The difficulty is certainly talked up, but really this stuff isn't a hard job, it's a series of small, simple jobs.Couldn't agree more! My first kit was a Mantua heavy Mike. I opened the box and looked at all the little parts and thought-"What have I got myself into???"I never thought I'd be able to build it, let alone have it run good. Just took my time and followed the directions and it was a snap! Really gives me a sense of pride when I run it!Now if I can just super detail it like Georgev's I'd be REAL happy!
I think a lot of modelers are missing out on that satisfaction because they think this stuff is harder than it is, or because they tried once and had problems. The difficulty is certainly talked up, but really this stuff isn't a hard job, it's a series of small, simple jobs.
Couldn't agree more! My first kit was a Mantua heavy Mike. I opened the box and looked at all the little parts and thought-"What have I got myself into???"I never thought I'd be able to build it, let alone have it run good. Just took my time and followed the directions and it was a snap! Really gives me a sense of pride when I run it!Now if I can just super detail it like Georgev's I'd be REAL happy!
L:
This is great. That's exactly the kind of thing I'd hoped would come out. "I was worried, but it went great" !
As for your heavy Mike, there was an amazing article in the Aug 06 - Sep 06 RMC by Tom Bailey about detailing one for the Ann Arbor. It was pretty amazing, considering Mr. Bailey actually worked the boiler to a taper with a /hand file/. You could also look to the NYC for inspiration - the odd Mantua Mike is somewhat like an H10 2-8-2. There was a discussion about that on RMR once.
loathar wrote: I think a lot of modelers are missing out on that satisfaction because they think this stuff is harder than it is, or because they tried once and had problems. The difficulty is certainly talked up, but really this stuff isn't a hard job, it's a series of small, simple jobs.Couldn't agree more! My first kit was a Mantua heavy Mike. I opened the box and looked at all the little parts and thought-"What have I got myself into???"I never thought I'd be able to build it, let alone have it run good. Just took my time and followed the directions and it was a snap! Really gives me a sense of pride when I run it!Now if I can just super detail it like Georgev's I'd be REAL happy!(good thread!)
(good thread!)
Loathar,
All that bling on the USRA Mike comes in the kit and the boiler is pre-drilled. Like you said, its a lot of small jobs. Some of the detail parts required some thought and study - most significantly the air pipes that have to zig zag through the small hangers. I did need to drill out a couple of holes in the running boards that hold the air tanks. Everything else was properly drilled and all I did was put it together. I would work only about 30 or 40 minutes at a time to keep from getting stressed.
George V.
dti406 wrote:The PRR Pro Group is going to do a super detail modification on various H8/H9/H10 Consolidations as its next project. You might want to join and get a lot of information on building a PRR Consolidation.RegardsRick
The PRR Pro Group is going to do a super detail modification on various H8/H9/H10 Consolidations as its next project. You might want to join and get a lot of information on building a PRR Consolidation.
Regards
Rick
I just explored the wonders of the internet and found that zamac is an alloy of zinc, aluminum, magnesium, and copper. It's my impression that the old Penn Line alloy had some lead in it. I recall it acting as if it did.
Ed
I bought an H-9 back when it was done by Penn Line. At that time, the metal they used was much softer than zamac. Has Bowser changed to the harder (and more brittle) zamac?
Rule 1: This is my railroad.
Rule 2: I make the rules.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
Great thread, you guys! In my opinion, too many of today's "modelers" miss out on the joys of the old Do It Yourself movement. All too often I see letters and messages like: "I'd like to have a good Consolidation for my model RR, but nobody makes one lettered for the XYZ. (Boo-hoo: me)" This ain't rocket science, people. I had a couple of teenage friends (now in their 40s; gee, I'm gettin' old) who mastered handlaying of track, painting, decaling, kit-building, a little scratchbuilding, etc. Try things! Even if things don't come out the way you'd like, go on--and come back to rebuild, repaint, re-decal, or whatever. Steam locomotives are a particular treat when you finish them and put them on the track for the first time--and they run "smooth as an oiled earlobe," as the venerable Tom McCahill, the Automotive Editor of the old Mechanix Illustrated used to say.
Model Railroading is FUN! Really.
Autobus,
Great thread about great locomotive kits. I built a USRA Mike a couple of years back (which is now finally in the paint shop!). Runs well, a tad noisy but that's not unexpected with the open frame motor. My 2 cents on Bowser kit assembly:
1) Take your time, then slow down some more. It can be easy to mis-assemble valve gear or rods as you pointed out, or other components. When bending the wire for piping it's easy to get the configuration wrong the first time. Fortunately there is extra wire!
2) Wear an apron(!) - the kind that covers you up almost to the neck. Pin or tape the lower edge to your workbench. When (not if!) the small parts go wandering, they will land in the apron.
One other comment - Bowser has great customer support. If anything is missing or damaged they will replace it promptly. You can also buy replacement parts if you truly hash something up.
Edit: Added a picture from prior to painting. Locomotive got primed last weekend.
Edit: Except to leave you with a conundrum...since Bowser kits *ARE* currently in production (the discontinuation thing was, happily, just a rumor) and currently in stock at a number of places online, why do they keep selling for over the list price on Ebay? I had an auction going on an H9 kit at the same time as I was buying this one...the auction ended at $30 over the retail price. Needless to say, I stopped bidding long before that!
Actually, if you check the Bowser site carefully, they're discontinuing some of the basic kits (i.e. the ones not including the superdetail parts) like the K-4.
And the I-1s
And the L-1
Andre