I wrote up some of the ways I've made roads on the following web page. Perhaps it might give you a few ideas.
Regards,
Charlie Comstock
http://blog.360.yahoo.com/blog-1FnQoaUmaKKSZHllUgLwTNA-?cq=1&p=83
model in O. the Western NY and Ontario Railroad
timbob wrote: railroadnut675 wrote: timbob wrote: HiI am building a layout that requires roads(dirt and pavment). I was wondering what the best technique for modeling both types of roads. I would like pics and(or) instructions. Thanks! Tim Interestingly enough, there is an article in this months MRR that deals with building roads from... roofing shingles Really? What issue is it in? The July issue?? Tim
railroadnut675 wrote: timbob wrote: HiI am building a layout that requires roads(dirt and pavment). I was wondering what the best technique for modeling both types of roads. I would like pics and(or) instructions. Thanks! Tim Interestingly enough, there is an article in this months MRR that deals with building roads from... roofing shingles
timbob wrote: HiI am building a layout that requires roads(dirt and pavment). I was wondering what the best technique for modeling both types of roads. I would like pics and(or) instructions. Thanks! Tim
Hi
I am building a layout that requires roads(dirt and pavment). I was wondering what the best technique for modeling both types of roads. I would like pics and(or) instructions. Thanks!
Tim
Interestingly enough, there is an article in this months MRR that deals with building roads from... roofing shingles
Really? What issue is it in? The July issue??
June I think. It was a sidebar in the article about that Soo Line layout.
Personally, my favorite for paved and concrete roads is this: http://www.telusplanet.net/public/crowley/ashphalt_roads.htm . The main difference between paved and concrete is the color and for concrete, the expantion joints (easily carved ahead of time). For the crown in the road, just glue toothpicks, end to end, down the centerline of the proposed roadway before you put the foam down. The skim coat on the foam will tend to crack a little down the middle of the road, just like the real thing. Then you can come back and patch it (with paint) if you want......again, like the real thing.
For Dirt roads, I've used a combination of these with good results:
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/scenery/clods/
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/scenery/stippling/
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/scenery/erosion_field/
http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/roads/
Some of these techniques are shown in different scales, but they work for all scales.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for all the responses!!
There are probably more methods for building paved services than just about anything else there is in the hobby. Many people like to use some sort of plaster like material and apply it wet then allow it to dry before sanding, painting, and weathering it. Others like to use materials that come in sheets such as styrene, cardboard, foam core etc. I've used both types depending on the type of roads I am trying to build. For city streets which tend to be laid out in grids and run in straight lines, I like to use sheet styrene which I cut wider than the street so I can also use it as a base for the sidewalks. I've tried various plaster like materials for rural roads which tend to have more curves. Durham's water putty is a good product but lately, I have used powdered joint compound which has a longer working time than traditional plasters.
To me, the key to good looking roads is proper coloring and weathering. Too often modelers take the easy way out and paint their roads a solid dark gray or black. Real roads are rarely this color unless freshly paved. Most are asphalt which bleaches out over time to a light gray with dark streaks in the middle of the traffic lanes where oil and rubber deposit develop over time. I see very few paved concrete surfaces whether roadways or parking lots. Many roads start as concrete slabs but get resurfaced with asphalt. If you do intend to do concrete, score expansion joints into the surface at regular intervals.
Unpaved roads can be dirt or gravel and this is just a matter of using the right ground cover to simulate that. Unpaved roads will tend to develop wheel ruts over time so those should be worked in.
Here's a brief description on how this road was constructed. I made a smooth surface of an appropriate height for the area. I measured and marked the boundary of the road with it tapering into the far side of the scene to simulate distance with forced perspective. I cut cardboard such as that used for cereal boxes to fit the measurements, and glued it into place. I painted it a gray, "concrete" color. I applied yellow lines, and I made lines with a black ball point pen for joints and cracks. I weathered with acrylic paints making streaks of "oil" and "grime" on the surrface. The should is fine, light gray ballast. The side raod into the park is the same ballast. The grade crossing is made of thin wood pieces and fits the tapering of the road. The road curves behind the trees where it makes the transition to the backdrop. I painted a narrow, tapering line into the backdrop with "concrete" color paint.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
The roads on my layout are made from left over roll roofing. A paper pattern is made then transfered to the back of the roofing which is cut to the desired dimentions. Cork roadbed is used under the road to bring it up to the track level. The roofing is installed back side up and glued to the cork with contact cement. A very dark grey paint is then applied and allowed to dry. Gravel is then spread along the sides of the road and fastened using the same method for ballasting track.
Gravel roads are made by spreading the gravel where the road is to go then making the ruts with a small car before fastening down with the same method as for ballast.
E-mail me for photos as I cant post them here.
Elmer.
The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.
(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.
Thanks for the good response!(pics wanted)
For paved roads I use foam core board and paint it whatever color it needs to be for the type of road I am building. For dirt roads, I use sculptamold and smooth it down with a wet finger. Then I run an old model car through it to make ruts. The wheels on the car must turn to get the right effect.
Other modelers have their own techniques.