ANNOUNCING: James Mitich's Scratchbuilt Model Contest.

[Anonymous]

Hello Everyone,

Well all the feedback is in, and all of the rules finalised. I am now formally announcing my model contest. Here are the rules:

Rules for Entry.

Hello Everyone,

Thank you for considering entering my first scratch built model contest. It is officially titled James Mitich’s Scratch Built Model Contest. I wish you luck with your model and hope you enjoy the time spent and the process involved in building it. To enter follow the following rules. If there are any questions, please email me at [e-mail]

Rule 1:
Model construction can not be started before April 1, 2004. The time remaining before the start of construction can be used for research and drawing of plans if deemed necessary.

Rule 2:
The model must be of an item for use on a model railroad. While you need not have a layout to enter this contest, if you do not have a layout, the model should be able to be used on one when built. The model can be of any prototype from any era in any scale.

Rule 3:
The model on its premise must be built from scratch. Kit bashing of major components into a new arrangement is not allowed. Detail parts as outlined in rule 4 may be obtained from kits if found to be suitable.

Rule 4:
Certain manufactured detail parts may be used, as the intent of this competition is to get modelers to pu***he limits of their skills and creativity, not make them endure cruel and unusual punishment. Detail parts allowed are trucks, couplers, windows, doors, motors and drive train components, DCC decoders, grills, fans, railings, walkways, brake gear, hand wheels, and assorted vents. If a certain detail part does not fall under this list, use the “Would a person scratch building what I am use this part” test. If further clarification is desired, email me.

Rule 5:
Decals, both manufactured and homemade, are allowed.

Rule 6:
Clear, In focus, well-lit, and properly exposed photographs of the finished model must be taken. Photographs can be in color or black in white, though color is preferred. Photographs can be of traditional or digital format as the display, viewing, and judging will be conducted on-line.

Rule 7:
A brief one page minimum summary detailing how the model was constructed must also be written.

Rule 8:
Models must be finished by July 31, 2004

Rule 9:
All photographs and construction summaries must be submitted to James Mitich by August 14, 2004. This allows two weeks from the end of model construction to photograph the model and write the construction summary if needed. Submissions before this date will be accepted and are encouraged to help balance out time demands by my other activities.

Submissions can either be emailed or mailed to me.

Email submissions should be emailed to [e-mail]

If submitting via regular mail, mail the submissions to

James Mitich’s Scratch Built Model Contest
P.O. Box 871
Lander, WY 82520

If mailing submissions photographs no smaller than 3.5 X 5 please.

Categories of Competition:
There are three categories of competition. These have been developed to address concern that some modelers wishing to enter are comparative rookies while other are old brass hats These three categories level the playing field for those that qualify to be in them.

The first category is Teen/Pre-Teen modelers. I have received lots of input from teenage members of the hobby, one even as young as 12 years old. Modelers ages 19 and younger get entered in this category.

The second category is First Time Scratch Builders. This category is for those who are fairly new to scratch building models and aged 20 or older. The models entered in this category can not be more than the third scratch built model the modeler has built in his model railroad tenure. This third model contingent has been placed to address feedback concerning some modelers wishing to get some “practice” before entering the competition.

The third and last category is the open category. Basically if you are an experienced scratch builder, and the model was scratch built you are in this category.

Judging:
All entries will be posted on an Internet Web Site for viewing by the interested public. Anyone viewing the models is free to cast their votes for First, Second, and Third place, as well as a best of show vote. Each vote cast will count as one vote for the model regardless of whether the voter counted it as first, second, or third place. The intent here is to allow the voter to express his or her full opinion on the matter. For sake of legitimacy, The votes cast for first, second, and third place for each model will be tracked and be made available at request after compilation is completed. The model receiving the highest total votes, second highest total votes, and third highest total votes, in each category will win First, Second, and third place respectively. The model receiving the highest number of votes in all categories wins best of show.

All votes must be cast by Patriot’s Day (Spetember-11) 2004. 11:59 P.M. Mountain Time.

Number of Entries:
A modeler is free to enter as many models as he or she wishes as long as each model conforms to the rules posted above. However, Unless the modeler is the only entrant in his or her category, they are eligible to receive only one prize. Unless the model also wins first Place and Best of Show. If multiple models are entered, the one receiving the most votes will the one earning the prize.

Prizes:
Due to this contest being financed out of my own pocket, fancy and flashy prizes are out of the realm of possibility. But I have decided to try and fund a modest number of prizes.

I have decided that Third place will win a Hobby Knife. Second Place will win a Hobby Paint and Brush Set. First Place will win a hobby knife, paint and brush set, and workbench-organizing tray. Best of show will win, a X-acto Multi-tool work set.

Since I have to fund this from my own pocket, donations are welcome. If one wishes to contribute, please send a check or money order for any amount made out to James Mitich to

James Mitich’s Scratch Built Model Contest
Prize Donation
P.O. Box 871
Lander, WY 82520

Any surplus funds will be saved and applied towards next year’s prizes.

Winning:
As detailed before, the winners will be determined by the number of votes cast for their model. After tallying the vote, The winners will be announced and will be notified by their preferred Choice of notification. They can choose E-mail, Letter, or Telephone call.

Please indicate the preferred method of contact and the necessary contact information with your submission please.

Upon confirming winning of the model, the prizes will be shipped to the winning participant.

Thank You:
Thank you all for taking the time to read these rules and participating in this contest. I wish you the best of luck and look forward to seeing your entry.

Sincerely

James R Mitich

[easyaces]

Thank you Grayhound Challenger. We all now know what we are shooting for!

[Dough]

Allright, looks great![:D]

[Anonymous]

Grayhound:

You have a well thought out contest. I'll enjoy participating and I hope many others well also.

To those of you still sitting on the fence: Have a go, we all will certainly learn lots and have considerable fun as well.

Randy

PS Any input from MR as yet?

[Anonymous]

I asked Model Railroader about sponsorship or even possibly just mentioning in the magazine. I was flatly turned down.

However in the spirit that this compitition is supposed to engender, I sent them a copy of the rules and invited the whole staff to participate anyway. We will see if anyone takes the bate.

Again, I wish you all luck with your models and I look foward to seeing what your creative talents can come up with.

James.

[Anonymous]

Good timing as far as I'm concerned. I'll be back from vacation by the end of March so I'll have time to get things lined up and ready to start.

Looking forward to the competition! [:D]

[Anonymous]

Glad the chips are falling into place for you Dave.

Just to let everyone know, I am offering unlimited technicle assisstance to those who feel they need it. I believe Dave here has offered the same.

Again, I look foward to seeing what everyone is doing.

James.

[Hawks05]

gives me time to buy a camera i desperately need. these one time use things turn out horrible pictures.

i think i will be entering the contest. i'm glad you have it for 2 months of the summer as i'll have time to work during the day.

James i think you have convinced me to try this. i haven't been able to get to the hardware store yet so i'm glad this doesn't start for awhile. also i'll be able to get pictures of the gondola sitting in town here. or i'll just use pictures from the internet to make something simple.

Thanks James

[Anonymous]

Hi Jim,

Here is a tip for those that take pictures with one of those one time use cameras. I have managed to get some pretty decent shots shooting the subject outdoors in bright sunlight. A cameral with one of the advanced see through the lens view finder might be advantagous.

One does not need a fancy professional SLR camera to get good pictures. You just need to recognise the limitations of what you are working with and compensate accordingly.

James

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Grayhound Challenger

Just to let everyone know, I am offering unlimited technicle assisstance to those who feel they need it. I believe Dave here has offered the same.

James.

Yes I have offered and would welcome any questions. I'm by no means an expert but do have a broad, well balanced, background in modeling and scratch building.

From Saturday March 6th through Sunday March 21st, I won't be available to respond to e-mails. However if you have a question and can't wait for an answer you may drop it by my hotel in Cancun, MX. [:D]

[Noah Hofrichter]

James,

I'm glad you finally got this thing together. I've been wacvhing all the differnet forums about it and they've convinced me to try it. Because this is my first attempt at scratch building, and the fact I'm only 12, I don't know how well it will turn out. If it looks good (what ever I make, I think it'll be a transfer caboose) I'll enter it.

Noah[:p][8D][:)]

[Hawks05]

well least you are starting before i did. i just got into it at 17 and this is my first attempt at building something.

[Anonymous]

Hi Noah,

Glad you have decided to give this a try. Let me give you some advise, if you build it, enter it. The artist is often their own harshest critic. So no matter how much you might be dissatisfied with the model, enter it, you never know what will happen. I wish you luck with your project and look foward to what you come up with. If you have any questions on how to do something. drop a question here on the forum, Me and Dave are offering unlimited assistance to those that ask for it.

Again I wish you luck,

James.

[Anonymous]

Noah:

Welcome to the contest.

We all feel just as you are feeling when we sit down at the bench and begin a new project. We all question ourselves at the outset. That part never goes away. Actually, it is part of the fun.

When you begin on day one of the contest just remember to take it one step at a time, measure twice cut once and if you have questions just ask them.

Good Luck

Randy

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the good words Randy,

James

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Snake

From Saturday March 6th through Sunday March 21st, I won't be available to respond to e-mails. However if you have a question and can't wait for an answer you may drop it by my hotel in Cancun, MX. [:D]

[8D] I'm back and the vacation was GREAT! although I returned with a little eye strain...

It was spring break and the beaches were packed with thousands of, [}:)] nearly naked, [}:)] college girls.

The trip cost me about $500 more than expected... some @#$%&*! stole my digital camera 2 days before we left! It wasn't so much the camera that upset me but the 176 pics that can't be replaced. My 13 y/o grandson, daughter and son-in-law went with us. Although I have many great memories I have no pics to share with friends and family.
__________

How's the contest coming along? With a week until the contest starts does anyone have any "how-to" questions that I can try to help you solve?

[Noah Hofrichter]

To Dave,
Glad you had a good time on your trip, and glad your back.

Now for my question to all;

I have read about cardstock being used as an alternative to styrene. Is this a very good idea? will it hold up very well, or should I stick with styrene? I just though maybe it would would be cheaper and easyier because the closest hobby shop that carries styrene is 50 miles away, and I only get there once a month or so. Also, what type of card stock should I use if this is a good idea in the first place.

Thanks, Noah[:p]

[Anonymous]

Noah,

For structure walls, boxcar siding and areas that need to be flat 3x5 and 5x7 type card stock is very flimsy although it could be used. I have had better sucess using the back off of writting tablets, the front and back covers of steno pads and soda pop 12 pack boxes.

To reflect window and door frames and other structure facade 3x5 or 5x7 card stock would work. These cards are .009" thick which in HO equals about 3/4". Soda pop 12 pack boxes are .019" thick or about 1-5/8 HO inches.

side note: The formula to get scale inches is; inches X scale = scale inches. I.e. HO scale 1:87.1 - .020 x 87.1 = 1.742, or about 1-3/4", N scale is 1:160 - .020 x 160 = 3.2 or about 3-1/4".

My choice as an alternative to styrene is the clear plastic tops from resturant take home boxes. I've also found some grocery items are packaged using this clear plastic. It is much stiffer than card stock, very bendable, easy to cut, and works well with CA. After cutting the pieces to size and shape, sand the surface lightly with #600 before assembly to ensure CA and paint adhesion.

AOL likes to waste there money sending me a supply of .050 material. Although not as flexible, CD cases can be used for flat surfaces like structure walls. In HO, 2 CD cases equals 1 small freight terminal. [:)]

For inside corner renforcement and framing I cut strips from popcicle sticks using a hobby knife. Popcicle sticks are .080 (HO = 7", N = 12-3/4"). I model in HO so cutting .080 strips gives me 7"x7" beams. I recently found that Star Bucks stir sticks are .050 thick and are longer than popcicle sticks. I went to my local Star Bucks, told the guy what I wanted them for and he gave me a double fist full. I didn't figure it out but it must be close to a gazillion board feet of lumber. [:D]

The popcicle sticks I bought in my local crafts store are .38 wide or in HO about 33". Two of then glued together makes 5'6". Great for making HO scale sidwalks - 7" rise from road suface and 5'6" width.

I also recently read on this fourm that the signs being used for election campaigns would also make a good alternative to buying styrene. Can't wait for the election to end, I plan to help "clean up" the old signs. [^]

[Anonymous]

Noah:

I'm working on a structure from a 1950s MR article. It specifies using card stock for trim and roofing. Having put a caliper to several varieties of card stock I can tell you on average it works out to about .010 thick. In HO scale thats a bit less than 1". The thinest plastruct sheeting is also .010.

I opted for the plastic and will cut strip to size as needed. Over several years I think it will hold up better than paper and will accept the water based paints which I use to weather with less likelihood of warping or puckering.

I agree with Dave that there are many many things in the real world which are useful in the modeling world. First step in my view is to make a materials list for your future projects. Second step is to save all those odd bits and pieces which might come in handy. If you see an interesting shape just put it aside, a use will suggest itself eventually.

Randy

[Noah Hofrichter]

This is just a bump to the top to see if we can get some more people interested in the contest, who may have not have seen this before.

Noah

[Anonymous]

Here is a reposting for some late comers wondering what the rules are.

James

[Anonymous]

Howdy i'm gonna do it

[Noah Hofrichter]

Glad you dicided to join Jay, I think you'll enjoy it. I'm doing my first model for the contest and it's comming along well. Can I ask what your going to build?

Noah

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Noah Hofrichter

Glad you dicided to join Jay, I think you'll enjoy it. I'm doing my first model for the contest and it's comming along well. Can I ask what your going to build?

Noah

Well this is my first model so i'm with you noah. If you have the June issue of MR the CNW pile trestle is what i'm building only a beefed up version cuase it's gotta support SD60s and SD45s[:D] It's gonna be about 3 feet long[:)]
[Edit:This trestle so far has cost me less than 10.00 which is good becuase i'm on a limted budget[8)]]

[Anonymous]

am i the only left thats doing this?

[Anonymous]

Last I know there were at least 5 doing it. Which I consider a good turnout for the first year.

James

[Anonymous]

come one anymore of us gonna try? Jeeze with only 5 people it's almost graunted we're all gonna win something

[Noah Hofrichter]

I too wouldn't mind seeing a little more competition. Hopefully there'll be more next year.

Noah

[Anonymous]

Well, let's see. Limited budget, no materials, don't know how. Hmmm, CNW built his trestle out of wood, while everyone tells me that plater or syrene is the way to go. I suppose (if I can get the materials) I could try building a bridge or something like that. Any suggestions for a beginner?

[Noah Hofrichter]

That's the spirit! I'm with you, I'm a beginner, but I'll tell you what they told me. Just take it easy and don't get to critical of your self, if it looks anything remotely like what you were going for, enter it, just say it got damaged and wheather it up real good. I wish you luck in you quest.

Noah