YOUR COUPLERS are too low. WHY?
Each car/engine is different: Buying a tool and bending the glad hand is not the BEST answer, just the simplest. So is cutting off the metal hose, but it does nothing to align couplers or help them stay together.
WHY they are low, and addressing it, is the best answer. EXAMPLE: All my OLD Atherns BB needed Kadee washers to raise the car. Standard #5's are for most freight cars and longer #6, 46, or 36, for passenger.
BOTH the Kadee 205 and 206 do the job. BUY one. It is a most important tool. I have TWO.
Yes, this is a very common problem. You need to purchase two tools designed specifically for the purpose of adjusting those air hoses: A Kadee Coupler Height Gauge and Kadee Coupler Trip Pin Pliers.
The Old Man wrote: Man there's a lot to this "hobby." Can't wait until Monday when I can get back to work and relax a little.
Man there's a lot to this "hobby." Can't wait until Monday when I can get back to work and relax a little.
Adjusting couplers / glad hands is just one of the things you do when preparing an engine or car for use, like weathering a car or setting the CV's on an engine etc. With all the different brands of coupler and cars and engines out there, no one manufacturer can make it so coupler works perfectly with every car.
Once you do these adjustments it a few times it will become just a part of the regular routine.
The Old Man wrote:Especially on turnouts or crossovers? Is it standard procedure that these need to be adjusted/bent up?
"Bending up" is a simpleton solution. It can cause problems coupling to other cars, or engines with Snow plows.
Your PROBLEM is couplers are too low - especially with Athearn. *SOLUTION's are 1.KD height gauge 2. KD shims and washers. 3. substituting #40 offsets 4. using KD's couper-box bodymounts, or all of the above. REASON is different mfg's use different dimensions.
Some molded-on coupler boxes are too big, some too small. Example Old Athearn BB. Snap-on coupler cover a big offender. REPLACING with just a complete #5 coupler box cures.
I use EACH * of the above. Washers, shims, a complete set of #40 series, and of course a coupler height gage.
4x8 are fun too!!! RussellRail
The Old Man wrote: richg1998 wrote: Click on the 205 and 206 and you will see the difference. You never mentioned the scale you model or make of cars and couplers.Rich I'm a newbie and seem to have an odd mix. I am using HO new Bachmann trains that come with the EZ coupler. Then I have a few cars I got at a train show that have a mix that I can't identify.
richg1998 wrote: Click on the 205 and 206 and you will see the difference. You never mentioned the scale you model or make of cars and couplers.Rich
Click on the 205 and 206 and you will see the difference. You never mentioned the scale you model or make of cars and couplers.
Rich
I'm a newbie and seem to have an odd mix. I am using HO new Bachmann trains that come with the EZ coupler. Then I have a few cars I got at a train show that have a mix that I can't identify.
Right now I would suggest 206 but understand, I use the Kadee old time HO coupler. I do not use these monster couplers or the trip pins. Others may comment on what they would use.
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
richg1998 wrote: http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/height.htmAlso, the coupler might be sagging. Coupler trip pin pliers, #237, might also be helpful. Not the best photo.http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/tools.htmRich
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/height.htm
Also, the coupler might be sagging. Coupler trip pin pliers, #237, might also be helpful. Not the best photo.
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/tools.htm
What's the difference between the 205 & the 206? Which is recommended for my situation?
If you have Athearn cars with the 'snap-on' draft gear box lids, they are notorious for not quite latching, which leads to sagging couplers and snagging trip pins. A good starting point is to check the coupler mountings on the offending cars.
Cars with the couplers mounted on the truck rather than the carbody are also prone to having low couplers, especially if the mounting arm is a piece of thin plastic.
If you will never use magnetic uncoupling, the trip pin can be amputated. It can also be bent with ordinary long-nose pliers - just use a gentle squeeze, not a rock-crusher grip.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Apparently you're talking about the "glad hand"- trip pin of the Kadee coupler. Sounds more like you have low couplers, they are usually set for the right height if the coupler height is right. Vertical play in the box usually will cause a coupler to sag. I will generally set them just a bit higher than spec to clear any high magnet etc. Setting/ bending them too high will affect uncoupling and especially any delay feature if wanted. Some of the old timers in my club recommend filing a slight chamfer at the end to allow it to ride up and over instead of snagging on anything too high (magnets, grade crossings, high point rails)
Checking w/ the Kadee coupler height gauge is the best advice and best place to start.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
The Kadee coupler Gauge is used to show the correct height of the simulated airhose which is actually a trip pin for coupling/uncoupling. to set the correct height you'll need a trip pin pliers to adjust this....
The trip pin should just slide onto the platform part of the gauge, If it hits the front edge its to low...if it doesn't touch its too high.
An even better option is to buy a Kadee coupler guage. That way you know if the coupler is the right height or if the 'air hose' is too low. it all round will improve the reliability of the couplers.
A quick guage is to take a thin peice of metal or plastic (.010 or .020 in) and put it on top of the rails. The "air hose' should clear that.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Before running cars that have the "airhoses" built into the couplers it's always good practice to make sure they won't get hung up on your track work.
Trimming them, or bending them up is an option.
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