Question about brass painting and modifying...

[Anonymous]

I recently purchased a small PFM 2-6-2 locomotive that has already been painted. My first question is, should I remove this current paint job before I paint it? Also, I need to make some modifactions to it to more closely resemble a prototype and one mod involves moving an airpump. The problem is, when this airpump is removed, it leaves a hole where it was in the running board. How can I fill this hole? I'm not the most advanced modeler yet, and I don't want to screw this locomotive up too much since I paid a bit for it.

Also, what is the best way to attach new superdetail pieces to this model? Glue? Soldier? If soldier, what is the best type to use and where can I find flux for it? I have looked at radio shack but they dont carry it.

Thanks for any help,
Aaron

[Anonymous]

The 1st thing, and the best thing to remember about painting anything, including brass, is that cleanliness is paramount in getting a quality paint job. [:D]So yes, the old paint has to go. The good thing about brass is that you have a lot more options for stripping the paint, provided there are NO plastic parts. Removing the superstructure on a brass engine is usually quite easy, usually 3 screws(under the frame between the pistons, and 2 at the back of the cab). Same thing with the tender(4 0r 6 screws under the body). As you disassemble the engine, put all the parts in labeled containers so you can locate them later. (you will thank me later, BIG time for this hint)[;)]
Now it gets tricky from here. There are little insulating bushings and stuff in the chassis, and unless you are really confident in your ability to totally disassemble, then reassemble the engine,stop here.[:0] You may be able to touch up the existing paint, or airbrush out the defects, but you still have to get it clean. I like to use CRC#05013 electronic cleaner here. A thorough wash will clean off all the old oil and grease, and leave a clean surface, without hurting any plastic parts, including the motor! Careful with other brands or CRC part numbers, some electronic cleaners will melt paint and plastic alike! Test a small spot if your not sure. The boiler, cab, tender, tender frame and trucks (less wheels) can all be cleaned with Chameleon, brake fluid, carb cleaner, ELO or whatever else. Just get them perfectly clean and don't touch them with your hands. Get a cheap box of surgical gloves. You hands will also thank you![:D]
Holes can be filled with solder or putty (small ones) and yes, you can use acc to attach details! You can solder parts on, but not with a torch or an iron. If you can get a hold on one, a resistance soldering unit is the only way to go,so that you dont loosen the part next to the one you are soldering! [8D]
Remember also. Don't paint the drawbar where it touches the tender or the engine, or the "pin" on the engine it attaches to. Its an electrical path! Just take your time. With a little care, brass steam is no harder to paint than plastic steam![:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]

[Anonymous]

Wow! Thanks for the detailed reply! I'll give it a shot!

Aaron

[nfmisso]

Aaron;

You may want to join "brasslocobuilder" group on Yahoo! for more hints.

[Anonymous]

I'll check 'em out!

Thanks again,
Aaron

[Anonymous]

Aaron, I can find no fault in the process kbfcsme has outlined for you and it sounds like his method will produce professional results. I, however, take a less technical approach to painting. It doesn't matter to me if the item is brass, or plastic or some other material. I will look the surface to be painted over and if I think it will be o.k. I won't remove any old paint. Since you should use a primer on metal anyway, why not use the existing old paint for this? Reasons I would remove old paint are: the next coat will cover to much detail, is scratched or has any other defects that a new coat of paint would augment.

When you are ready to paint, as kbfcsme as described, the parts need to be clean! I will do this with some type of solvent on metals, finished by washing with dish detergent and hot water after and do not hold anything being painted with your bare hands again until the final paint coat is dry. Use clean surgical gloves. I skip the solvent wash with plastic and only detergent wash.

I like to brush paint everything. I am good at this. I think using spray paint is fine. However, I do not have an air brush and have never felt like parting with the money they cost! I find masking to be the most tedious job on the planet and will do as little of this as I can! I also find masking will screw things up quicker than anything I do and believe me I have done enough of it to know. If I decide that something absolutely needs to be sprayed, I will buy it in cans and spray it that way. When the color is on, I spray all with Tester's Gloss Coat. Then I decal. After this I use dull or gloss coat, depending the effect I am after.

I have been happy with the results I have obtained, using the methods above! I also know how to solder and would use a soldering gun or iron for any soldering I did, as again, I can't afford a resistance rig. However, I have spend hundreds of hours soldering and understand the process real well. Not having confidence to solder, I would use CA as a method of attaching detal parts as this works very well!

[Anonymous]

Thanks a lot for the replies guys! This will really help me out!

Aaron

[Jetrock]

On the same topic--how does one clean unpainted brass as prep for painting? Electronics cleaner, as mentioned above, or some other method? I am preparing to paint an unpainted brass Birney and it has been sitting around for a long time and has much oxidation...

[Fergmiester]

I'm hoping someone has an answer for Jetrock as I will be painting a couple of brass loco's in the near future. Does one have to "pickle" the brass before priming?