Walther's 89'auto racks and #4 turnouts

[cpcolin]

Hi everybody. I am thinking about using number 4 turnouts (HO SCALE) in a yard and was wondering if the walthers 89' auto racks would work? I am not opposed to using #6's but I want to compress the layout as much as possible. I am designing a switching shelf type layout and still want to use my auto racks as interchange traffic. I was wondering if anybody has had any experience with them.?

[Big_Boy_4005]

I would think that they would work just fine. They may look a little funny, and the overhang will be severe, but there shouldn't be any reason for them to derail. Do they make it around the curves on your layout?

One thing that you should always watch out for is "S"curves. An "S" is a curve in one direction, followed immeadiately by a curve in the opposite direction. As a rule of thumb there should always be at least a car length transition between the two curves.

In a yard scenario, it may be impossible to avoid some amount of "S" curve, but at low speeds you should be able to get away with it.

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cpcolin

Hi everybody. I am thinking about using number 4 turnouts (HO SCALE) in a yard and was wondering if the walthers 89' auto racks would work? I am not opposed to using #6's but I want to compress the layout as much as possible. I am designing a switching shelf type layout and still want to use my auto racks as interchange traffic. I was wondering if anybody has had any experience with them.?

I recommend #6 or #8, those auto racks are really long. The car by itself may have no problems with a #4, but whatever is coupled to it will likely cause a derailment. These things are 20% longer than a SD40-2.

[BNSFNUT]

I run Walthers 89' auto racks on my layout. All my turnouts are Atlas #4 and I have no problems with the car derailing. When crossing over between tracks I slow the train down a bit but if my big 6 axles make it them I know the cars will.
When switching these cars (cuts are 3-6 cars) in my yard or at the auto distribution area I just move slow and easy and have no problems.
The one thing I did find that these cars are very tricky about vertical changes in grade.
I found some dips in the track that I had not even noticed.

[Anonymous]

Don't do that.

[cpcolin]

Just to add to the conversation I know Atlas #4's are really #41/2's. I have no problems with using atlas products I have been using them for years. I really want to know if a "real" #4 would work.

[Big_Boy_4005]

I don't totally agree with Nfmisso, but he does make a good point in that, at some point the coupler swing will come into play. Are the couplers mounted to the car body, or they on bolsters?

As for the 4 vs 4-1/2, I think you are just going have to slow down a little more.

[Anonymous]

I remember reading somewhere that the average radius through a #4 TO was like 27". The track section through the frog is straight so that puts the actual radius of the curved sections smaller, but still big enough for your equipment. The main thing to warch for is S curves. Try to keep your ladder track straight with the TO's all the same (LH or RH).

[cpcolin]

Big boy the couplers are mounted to the car body.

[Big_Boy_4005]

That will make it trickier, especially if the trucks are not close to the end of the car. The farther in the trucks are mounted, the more exagerated the movement of the coupler pocket will be, and the more the coupler will have to swing in the pocket. If it has to go too far, it will bind, and the coupler on the car connected to it will start to swing the opposite way to compensate. This is extreme, but possible, and is probably what Nfmisso was talking about.

I don't think the #4 switches will be that bad, but here's a little test you could try if you have some 18" radius curve sections laying around. Make yourself a dreaded "S" curve, and give them a try. Try a bunch of combinations with engines and cars.