Very nice website on your WMRY. Looks great and thanks for the advice.
Rob
I personally use white glue held in place by foam nails or push pins for both my cork roadbed and track. I have used nails before, and more than often I would hit/push the nail to hard and it would bend the ties. I have also heard by using nails you run the risk of pushing the nails down to far and therefore twisting the rails in the process, which caused derailments.
Norman.....
SWA737 wrote: Starting my layout in HO code 83 and wanted to know if I should nail or glue the track on the cork roadbed. It will be a large layout when it is done (30X28) walk around so I want to get it right the first time. Thanks for all input.Rob
Starting my layout in HO code 83 and wanted to know if I should nail or glue the track on the cork roadbed. It will be a large layout when it is done (30X28) walk around so I want to get it right the first time. Thanks for all input.
You don't say if you are using cork over foam, cork over plywood, or cork over homasote over plywood. If you are using cork over foam, then you will probably use caulk for everything. In my opinion, neither the foam nor the cork will hold track nails securely over the long term.
If you use cork over plywood, then you can use either track nails or caulk. However, as someone else mentioned, there is a possibility that the track nails will transmit some noise through to the plywood. Plus you will have to use a little more care driving the nails because the plywood will want to resist them.
I used homasote sheet to cover the plywood, and then cork for the roadbed. I also used track nails. These will penetrate the cork and into the homasote, which will hold them securely. You can alternatively use caulk, but don't use caulk for the turnouts (again as someone else mentioned).
I think that a more important question that you need to answer is if this is your first attempt at layout building. Since you asked your question because you "want to get it right the first time", I'm assuming that you haven't really gone through the process before (but I could be wrong!). If this is really the case, then it is likely that there will be numerous glitches along the way regarding alignments, curves that aren't as smooth as they should be and require re-laying, things that don't exactly fit as planned, and other annoying glitches. This being the case, I believe that the track nail method allows easier and less frustrating modification.
I'm sure other opinions will soon follow......
One more vote for grey latex caulk. I use track nails to position the flex laterally while the caulk is curing under the weight of everything from spare cordless tool batteries to 2-liter bottles of Pepsi. The nails can be removed once the caulk is secure, but I'm too lazy to bother. (They are pushed - driven is hardly an appropriate verb - into styrofoam, so sound transmission isn't an issue.)
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
UpNorth wrote:On thing not touched on is the fact nailing will transfer noise to the ply-wood. Nailing to homasote was ok as it did not touch the wood bench. But thru cork you will hit the sub-roadbed and noise will be amplified like a drum. The thinner the ply, the worse the noise. Caulking the track to cork will isolate the track better from the noise.
A DOUBLE THICKNESS of cork solves that. The nails hold the track in place without penetrating the plywood. 'Double profile' 'HO' on 'O'gauge Looks more prototyp also.
WHITE GLUE and other water soluable bonding agents dry hard, and will transmit noise, so I prefer a 'softer' cent such as 'Matte Medium' for Ballasting.
wm3798 wrote: I use a thin skim of Liquid Nails, and I let it dry a bit till it's just tacky enough to hold the track. I also put only a dot about every 6" or so. The ballast and glue do the rest.Lee
I use a thin skim of Liquid Nails, and I let it dry a bit till it's just tacky enough to hold the track. I also put only a dot about every 6" or so. The ballast and glue do the rest.
Lee
Just make sure that the Liquid Nails is plastic compatible!! Liquid Nails makes about a dozen different types of adhesive - most are solvent based which will destroy plastic!! It will say on the tube "safe for styrofoam etc".
Route of the Alpha Jets www.wmrywesternlines.net
I have recently started laying track and have never done it before. I listened to the pro's here and many advised using caulk or white glue and caulk.
I went with the white glue and caulk method.
I use the white glue to lay the cork to the subroadbed and use gray caulk for laying the track to the cork roadbed.
I purchased a container of 500 push pins / map pins from Office Depot for $4.99 and used them to hold the cork in place until it dried. They also work to hold the track to the cork roadbed. I found this was extremely easy.
Bill
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Jim, Modeling the Kansas City Southern Lines in HO scale.
I just finished my layout and had no problem with white glueing the cork to the foam, and laying all the track ( mostly flex code 100 HO Atlas track ) with the nails. The nails hold the track down just fine. Now I will admit that once I have everything ballasted that the track will be "firmer". But the nails have worked so far, and I can run my steam fleet no problem.
Cast my vote for the 30 year interior/exterior gray latex caulk. Makes quick work of track laying. And later on you can pull it up with a metal spatula quite easily for making adjustments or repairs.
I have put down as much as 60' of track in a 4 hour session with the latex caulk method. I've even run trains on it as soon as 15 minutes after the track was set with the caulk.
Regards,
Ryan
Ryan BoudreauxThe Piedmont Division Modeling The Southern Railway, Norfolk & Western & Norfolk Southern in HO during the merger eraCajun Chef Ryan