Better performance needed for a Plymouth Switcher

[SteamFreak]

Norman, judging from your pictures, the unit looks pretty clean, and the gear train seems to be free of hardened lubricants. One thing I do notice is that the commutator is nearly black; I can't see any copper plates at all. The brushes are certainly oil-fouled, so I recommend removing the brushes and springs and soaking them in 90% alcohol, and cleaning the commutator as well. Remove the spring retainers in a plastic bag to prevent them from sailing across the room. You can polish up the commutator with 600 grit sandpaper, or even with a pencil eraser, and be sure to clean the dirt from the slots between the plates as well - it can cause shorts.

If you don't feel brave enough to remove the brushes, you can get contact cleaner at Radio Shack made by MG Chemicals that will blast out most of the gunk. Lightly oil the bearings when your'e done. The motor probably only has 3 poles, but unless it's burned out you can definitely make it run better than it does now. 

[gandydancer19]

If you want to try and get this one going, there are a few things that you can check out.

1. Make sure the frame with the wheels is free running.  That is, make sure the wheels are not binding up or sticking anywhere as they go around.  If you can get to the gears, make sure that they are not worn out.  Don't just push the frame on the track, rotate the wheels by turning the gear that the motor would use.  Holding the frame up-side-down when you did this would put the gears in the same positions as if the model was on the track.

2. Make sure the motor runs well outside of the model.  Check the brushes if you can.  They should be spring loaded to a point.  The brushes should be some type of carbon material and not just coil springs.

3.  The pick-ups have to be adjusted right, with enough tension that they make electrical contact with the wheels and motor, but not tight enough that they will cause drag that the motor has to over-come.  Its a balancing act to get it right.

4. Use a little oil, and I mean a LITTLE.  The oil should be plastic compatable.  Lube the gears, axle bearings, and motor bearings.  You can also apply a small amount of WD-40 on the wheel wipers, and the contacts on the brushes.

5. A really good power pack is a must to make this model go slow.  A power pack with Pulse Power is even better.

Now, even if these things don't fix it because it may just be too far gone, you will gain experience in doing these things, so you will know what to do on other models that may not run well.

[jeffrey-wimberly]

And now you know why I avoid two and three axle units. I've had nothing but problems with them.

[wm3798]

That looks like one of the really old ones.  Check on one of the more reputable on-line dealers, and see if you can get a new one.  I think they can be had for under $20.

Lee 

[Anonymous]

The motor

The Pickups

The Wheels

And all of them next to each other

 

And you are right, WM3798 I should have found out alittle bit more on this switcher. But at the time I was just getting into the hobby and didn't know anything. I saw the switcher on ebay and thought oh cool and jumped in feet first...If I knew then what I know now, well lets just say I wouldn't be having this problem. Anyways now I'm just trying to make the best out of what I have, and if I learn something in the process then that is a good thing.

I'm not sure about the version of this switcher, however I did take it apart, (as you can see) and played with the pick ups alittle, made sure that they were touching the wheels. It ran alittle better but not great still. And I think that at times only 4 of the 6 wheels are touching. The front and back wheels touch while the middle ones do not. Hope the pics help with some info, thanks for the help.

Norman.....

 

[wm3798]

Do you know what vintage your Plymouth is?  This model has been around for eons, going back to the first version in the dark ages of the late 60's.

There have been several iterations of the drive since then, with all having a similar outward appearance.

If you can provide a photo of the engine, and the drive with the shell off, it will be easier to diagnose the problem.

The most recent version, which Bachmann sells in a plastic jewel case, is supposed to be much improved over earlier versions, but I don't have any experience with that.  If you got one of the earlier ones (cardboard box with white styrofoam insert) then you might have a dud.

Help us with some details, and maybe we can help you.  Either way, it's important to know a little bit about what you're bidding on when you buy on Ebay.  I see a lot of crap that someone obviously doesn't know what they're looking at, and the bids rack up and up.  Caveat Emptor.

Lee 

[fwright]

Performance of small switchers had generally been suspect in any scale.  For the most part, they were made as cheaply as possible, because model railroaders tend to pay by the number of drive wheels for locomotives.  Yet, as you discovered engineering a smooth running and good pulling tiny locomotive is more difficult than on a larger locomotive, especially in N scale.

For specifics:

• What sort of controller are you using?  The locomotive may not draw enough current for a train set power pack to regulate the voltage properly.  At a minimum, a transistorized power pack is needed to regulate voltage independent of current draw.  Any of the MRC Tech series are a good start.
• You want to fit as low an RPM motor as you can into the switcher.  Typically, but not always, larger motors have lower RPMs.  So it will likely be a trade-off.
• Gearing is everything.  You want as big a gear reduction as you can fit in.  A 2 step reduction is probably desirable because of the limited size of the worm gear that can be fitted on the drive axles.  A flywheel - again as big a diameter as you can fit - also helps.  Diameter is far more important then length of a flywheel.  In an ideal world, top speed on 12 volts would be about 30 scale mph.  In N, I'd be happy if I could get it down to 60.
• Make sure all wheels pick up power properly, and all wheels touch the rails on flat level track.  You'd be surprised how many switchers only have 3 of 4 or 6 wheels actually making electrical contact and providing traction.
• Weight - if there is any room at all - will help electrical pickup and pulling power.  Under the cab roof is often a good place to add weight.

Good luck, take picture, and share your results.

Fred W 

[Anonymous]

I purchased a Plymouth Switcher from a seller on ebay when I was just getting into N scale. I now realize why this was being sold. I'm not so much bitter that it operates so poorly, I feel that upgrading it and learning about it just gives me the edge in my opinion.

I just converted the original rapido couplers to some knuckle couplers, and that was with great help from a previous thread.

But recently I put it on my test track and it shot out a spark about a half an inch long. This is not good at all, I thought. And the fact that I can only run it at one speed to get it going and that is "all out, full throttle".

So now for the question, as if you don't already know where I'm going with this: But how do I fix these problems, by adding another motor (What kind of motor?) Do I need to add more weight? ( How do I add more weight to such a small model?)

Please remember this is an N scale switcher......

Thanks for the help, Norman........