Wiring/splicing

[DocDan]

I am ready to start wiring my layout. Because it is DCC, I plan to use multiple feeders throughout (feeders approx every three feet or so). I plan to use 20 gauge solid wire for connecting to the rail base and 12 gauge stranded for a continuous bus. I need to make T-splices from the feeders into the bus wires. Problem is I'd like to make the splicing part go faster and withour risking slicing my fingerscutting insulation. I know 3M makes the IDC connectors but none of their connectors seem to cover the range I need (12 gauge thru wire and 20 gauge connecting). Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions that would make the splicing part faster and easier?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[cmrproducts]

Get a squeeze type wire stripper (Radio Shack, Home Depot, Lowes Home Center). Then just put it over the 12 gauge wire and strip the insulation back about 1 inch. Then wrap your 20 gauge wire around the 12 gauge wire and solder it. The insulation will then slide back towards the solder joint and minimumize the amount of tape that needs to be used on the joint. If you offset the wires about 2" then you may not even need the tape. Just use lots of hangers to keep the wire from getting tangled.

BOB H Clarion, PA

[Sperandeo]

Hi Dan,

I'm using Scotchlok IDC connectors for my own DCC wiring. I use no. 22 wire for track feeders, but only through the depth of the roadbed and subgrade. Immediately below the plywood I spice the 22 to a length of no. 18 wire with a red connector, then where the 18 connects to the no. 12 bus I use a brown connector. I'm sorry I don't remember the numbers of these connectors – probably they're the 567 and 566, but don't quote me – but they are the correct ones for these sizes of wire.

I switch from the 22 to the 18 wire to get to a larger conductor since the feeder drop may have to extend a foot or so to reach the bus. That may be overkill but I'm trying to build for reliability – practicing what I preach in the September At the Throttle editorial.

For the same reason I'm also dropping a feeder from every lengthof rail. Though I use rail joiners I'm not relying on them to carry current. That means I have lots of these connections to make, so the IDC connectors are a great timesaver over soldering and taping all those splices. I buy the Scotchloks in bulk, 100 or more at a time, and that way you can get pretty good prices from the mail-order suppliers – I use Mouser.

Good luck,

Andy Sperandeo
Editor
MODEL RAILROADER Magazine

[pgrayless]

Dan,

I've also used the same techniques that Andy has used, althought I've used solid 12 GA for my main bus instead of stranded (I've been advised that using solid isn't a great idea in the long run). This greatly improved my train performance when dealing with 50' one way runs. I'd also had to use the 12 GA for my throttle network (MRC), as the 22 GA in the telephone wire would handle the length of run as advertised (I've since switched to Digitrax).

The main thing is to be patient and take your time while wiring. Test everything each step of the way. Neatness does count, as I've spent over 30 years dealing with tangled wiring in the past.

Good luck & have fun. It really is worth it in the end.

Paul Grayless

[Anonymous]

Hi Andy

>

Wow! That's more than I intended to do. With soldered joints is there that much of a concern about conducting through the joint? I assume you mean that, at the least, you have a feeder every three feet, assuming you are using 3' flex track. Has there been research done on current loss through the joints?

Thanks

Barry

[Sperandeo]

Hi Barry,

Actually I'm handlaying my track, but the rails are still three feet long so yes, there's roughly one feeder every three feet. And I only solder rail joiners on curves; on straight track I leave them unsoldered and with a .020" to .030" expansion gap between the rail ends.

The soldered joins are probably about as good as the rail itself, but nickel silver rail is a less efficient conductor than copper wire. I think the extra feeders are worth the effort.

Could you get away with fewer? Sure. On our MR&T club layout, which is built with flextrack, our standard is feeders on every other length of track. That hasn't given any trouble, but at home I'm leaning toward the "bullet proof."

so long,

Andy

[Anonymous]

Thanks Andy
Well that makes sense. I am only leaving one unsoldered joint for expansion. The layout is in a finished room but I am thinking maybe I should do the same in the straight sections. As for the feeders, certainly no harm, so it's easier to do it now than go back when there are problems, I guess. THanks

Barry

[Anonymous]

Wiring Splices
There are no crimp connectors that are perfect for modelrailroads.
You can see them at www.posi-lock.com
There is a connector called "Posi-Tap" that will tap an into an 18, 16, 14 or 12 gauge wire without cutting it. You can also power up to (4) 18 gauge common leads at once. Since all of these connectors are no crimp, they can be reused or moved at anytime. They are sold mostly in the automotive industry and are available at AutoZone, Walmart, and most parts stores. They can also be purchased on line at the website.

[Anonymous]

Hello, I also couldn't find the suitcase connectors for 12/18 guage, I cut the insulation off the 12 guage and then used the 14/18 connectors, still got a good solid connection, I then taped tehm with electical tape.

[wp8thsub]

3-M Scotchlok 567 suitcase connectors work with 12 gauge and 18 gauge. Try an electrical supply house; in my area the Home Depot/Lowes and other general hardware stores don't stock them.

[Anonymous]

pgrayless,
Electricians use solid 12 gauge wire throughout your house, why wouldn't solid wire be o.k.?

[Anonymous]

GUYT,

Thanks for passing along the info about the new Posi-Tap™ Connector. http://www.posi-lock.com/newproducts.html It sounds great! I went to their website and read about it. It states that it is for stranded wire applications. I have e-mailed Posi-Lock and asked if it could be used on solid core as well.

I'll post their reply when I get it.

[Anonymous]

I got a quick reply... Here is what they said.

"We recommend that it be used on stranded wire, however, it has been used on solid conductor."
Swenco Products, Inc.
800-785-2330
www.posi-lock.com

[Anonymous]

I received my Posi-Tap order. These are great connectors! Unlike suitcase connectors these can be reused by simply unscrewing the connector ends. If you tap into the main buss and drop 3 lines out, then at a later date you need to add 1 or 2 more, simply unscrew the multi-wire tap end and add the wire(s). If the tap needs to be moved up or down the main buss, simply loosen the line tap and slide it to the new location and re-tighten.

Here's the pic from Posi-Lock.


Here's some pics I took.


Pic 1 gives you idea of how large they are.
Pic 2 if you use it on solid core wire don't tighten it too much or it will break the wire.
Pic 3 shows the multi-wire tap end.

I AM NOT AFFILIATED WITH POSI-LOCK IN ANY WAY.
I just think these connectors are the best thing since sliced bread.

[Anonymous]

Hi DocDan

Well, one way of connecting 20ga wire to 12ga wire is to use euro style block connectors. They give a good strong mechanical connection too in case you happen to snag your wire while working under the table.

Here is a source and what they look like.

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=755&item=TB-50&type=store

[Anonymous]

very interesting reading. I am new to DCC and am using Lentz. On testing some new turnout sections I am getting very eratic control failure. Do you guys think I am losing power and should I wire every turnout?