saronaterry wrote: Richard, Envirotex Lite is a 2 part epoxy.Think decoupage/ bartops. I found mine at Menards,and I assume other Big Boxes also carry it.I've also read on the forum that some hardware stores will have it.There were two sizes, the one I buy is the larger at $20.I've used nothing else for rivers,etc. It dries hard and clear, so you would have to tint it. Hope this helps.Terry
Richard, Envirotex Lite is a 2 part epoxy.Think decoupage/ bartops. I found mine at Menards,and I assume other Big Boxes also carry it.I've also read on the forum that some hardware stores will have it.There were two sizes, the one I buy is the larger at $20.
I've used nothing else for rivers,etc. It dries hard and clear, so you would have to tint it.
Hope this helps.
Terry
Thanks for the info. I checked their site, and it looks like ACE and TruValue hardware may carry it, as well as Michaels.
BTW I don't think you're allowed to say decoupage here - (bartops yes!)
Terry in NW Wisconsin
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Thanks to all for the input. It sounds like a big "no" for the WS RW.
larak wrote: Hm ... the Realistic Water that I used did NOT dry hard. (Two different bottles from different vendors) It remains pliable enough thay it can be easily dented with a finger nail. I wouldn't trust it to hold its shape unsupported. It will likely sag. Now as for envirotex lite ... very hard drying. Karl PS: You might find fiber optics in a "dollar store".
Hm ... the Realistic Water that I used did NOT dry hard. (Two different bottles from different vendors) It remains pliable enough thay it can be easily dented with a finger nail. I wouldn't trust it to hold its shape unsupported. It will likely sag.
Now as for envirotex lite ... very hard drying.
Karl
PS: You might find fiber optics in a "dollar store".
I have never seen the "Environtex lite". Is this a pourable liquid, or more like the WS "water" that one needs to melt and pour? Is it clear enough (when set) to use for my purpose?
As for the $$ Store fiber optics, I'm assuming one would cannibalize some gawdy lighted paperweight for the goods? Or maybe your $ Store has better stuff than mine!
Richard, Larak, Nbrodar, I screwed up.
I was reporting how Woodland scenics EZ Water sets up, not Realistic Water. Never used Realistic Water, no experiences with it to pass on, but EZ Water sets up more than hard enough for the purpose you describe.
Sorry for any confusion.
WS Realistic Water does NOT set hard. The one place I used it, has collected dust, ground foam, and a bug.
Nick
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MisterBeasley wrote: Why not use fiber optics instead of going to the hassle of light pipes?
Why not use fiber optics instead of going to the hassle of light pipes?
Ok, educate me. Where can I find fiberoptics (cheaply and in a small supply )? Is there any special trick to using this method ('scuse my ignorance). Links! I need links!
Thanks for the help. I am always open to suggestions.
FYI, I have a switcher where the original manufacturer used a light pipe to get to the back of the cab. Even after replacing the incandescent bulb with a LED, I still could barely see the headlight. I took the whole thing apart and removed the light pipe, and then installed the LED behind the lens where it belonged. As a side benefit, I also got cab illumination from the side-lighting of the LED.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
jeffers_mz wrote:It dries pretty hard about like casting resin.
Great news! Is it a very viscous liquid, or would it decant easily and readily take the shape of a mold? I was planning on a 2 part mold that could be poured, but I suppose a 2 part "squish mold" may suffice, but it's messier and a bit wasteful.
Thanks
I am trying to come up with a method of casting "light pipes" for one of my locos, and it occured to me that perhaps this or similar products may be an option. I have considered acrylic tubing, but for the amount I actually need, and the amount I would actually need to purchase (and potentially never use) this seems a more reasonable option since I plan on a water feature on my layout in the future.
I have no experience with the product, but it appears that it remains clear once cured. My main concern is whether or not it sets hard, or remains somewhat pliable. A hard "set" is what I am after. Any opinions/suggestions?