Hi,
I've had good luck using it to glue the clear lucite to the window frames. I have not used it to "make" windows however.
Mobilman44
ENJOY !
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
I use Mod Podge gloss-lustre from Wally world. Dries crystal clear, you can even make your own windows or lenses on wax paper. Then when you get tired of that, use it to do some waterways or just freshen them up. Its cheap to boot-and you probably already have some if these fine folks around here had their say in it-good stuff.
Ken
I use Elmer's Craft Bond, myself. It's just as thick as regular Elmer's glue, but it dries clear and FLEXIBLE, so it tends to hold better on parts like windows, etched parts, etc. I think Krystal Clear, Canopy Glue, and a lot of the others are probably closely related to this stuff. Plus, you can get a regular-sized bottle of this stuff for about $3 at Wally World.
Robert Beaty
The Laughing Hippie
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The CF-7...a waste of a perfectly good F-unit!
Then it comes to be that the soothing light at the
end of your tunnel, Was just a freight train coming
your way. -Metallica, No Leaf Clover
Phil, I'm not a rocket scientist; they are my students.
The testors window cement is basically the same stuff as the micro crystal clear,I've used both to make windows on models and to glue the clear plastic or acetate windows into buildings etc.Both worked well but both I've found take a good 18 hours to set up. I've since used the medium thick puzzle glue that Milton Bradley makes to permanently attach jig saw puzzles together when you frame them. It costs less than either of the other products and it dries completly clear,also I found that it dries in about six hours as well. ( when you use it on puzzles you paint it on the front picture side of it )I haven't had any windows fall out that I've used it on and I've used it on locomotives and structures,another option for you guys to concider.
Rob
No, I did not have to thin the future floor wax, per instructions.
Phil
I've had excellent results with my wife's craft glue made by "Bond Adhesives." It is called "Instant Grrrip" (that is how they spell the name) white craft cement. It does resemble white glue but is more tacky and will dry clear. I've had windows firmly attached for nearly a year without any difficulties.
Wayne
Modeling HO Freelance Logging Railroad.
loathar wrote: RicHamilton wrote:I gotta ask, how often are you gonna be pressing on the windows? I gave heard of most people using the white glue to put windows in. That way if it goes astray, it is much less noticable than the CA crazing or sloppiness of the plastic gluesI'm just worried about the stuff drying out and the windows falling off on there own after a month. I've got a lot of windows to do and would hate to do them twice.
RicHamilton wrote:I gotta ask, how often are you gonna be pressing on the windows? I gave heard of most people using the white glue to put windows in. That way if it goes astray, it is much less noticable than the CA crazing or sloppiness of the plastic glues
I'm just worried about the stuff drying out and the windows falling off on there own after a month. I've got a lot of windows to do and would hate to do them twice.
Been there! I was working on a friend's layout, attempting to place a large industry flat along the wall when all the windows started falling out!
The name on the Testors clear part ''cement'' is misleading, it's not actually a glue, it's for making small windows [like on aircraft or ship models] or attaching clear parts like aircraft canopies, headlights or similar pieces, it makes pretty good lenses for loco headlights but it's just not strong enough to actually hold anything in place.
I use Aileens tacky glue for windows in my buildings, it really holds them in there, and it dries clear so if you make a booboo it isn't obvious, CA glue fumes will settle on everything and turn it white, thats why I don't use them for clear parts.
I heard the Future floor wax scenario many years ago and tried it once, it didn't yellow but it didn't work like I wanted, I've never heard of using it like glue.
wgnrr wrote: CSX_road_slug wrote: Hi Loathar,I admit I haven't tried it myself yet, but I've heard several modelers speak highly about Future Floor Polish - that stuff dries glossy, and is hard as a rock! I bet that would hold your windows in place...I wouldn't use Future Floor Wax if I were you....I got a tip that it would work great as a sealer for decals and paint on model railroad cars...from a decal manufacturer. A few months later, my engines and cars started turning a tint of yellow.That said manufacturer went OOB last year.Phil
CSX_road_slug wrote: Hi Loathar,I admit I haven't tried it myself yet, but I've heard several modelers speak highly about Future Floor Polish - that stuff dries glossy, and is hard as a rock! I bet that would hold your windows in place...
Hi Loathar,
I admit I haven't tried it myself yet, but I've heard several modelers speak highly about Future Floor Polish - that stuff dries glossy, and is hard as a rock! I bet that would hold your windows in place...
I wouldn't use Future Floor Wax if I were you....I got a tip that it would work great as a sealer for decals and paint on model railroad cars...from a decal manufacturer. A few months later, my engines and cars started turning a tint of yellow.
That said manufacturer went OOB last year.
I haven't had that problem. I used Future on 16 passenger cars 2 years ago, and they still look as good as the day I sprayed them. Did you try to thin it somehow?
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
loather, I tried using it when I was building my Merchant's Rows and had the same experence as you. I am afraid of using it for the same reasons. I think on my next windows I am going back to the regular Teastors glue and be VERY careful and only use a small drop in each corner of the glazing.
Some of the windows I have put in are going to be almost impossible to re-do after I get all the interiors done. I will be watching this thread closely to see where it goes from here. Good luck. Mike
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=80343
Has anyone tried THIS stuff? Some of the guys on Scale Auto said they use that Pacer 560 Canopy cement, but it looks like a watered down white glue like the Testors.
loathar wrote: I'm just worried about the stuff drying out and the windows falling off on there own after a month. I've got a lot of windows to do and would hate to do them twice.
Let is sit longer than overnight. I think watered down glue would take longer take longer. Also try full strength white glue. The Krystal Klear also works but I think that is just overpriced white glue.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I use Micro Kristal Kleer. It appears to be in the acrylic gloss medium family. It dries to a rubbery consistancy in 5 or 10 minutes, and hardens to a glossy clear surface. It does not craze clear styrene and the part is removable.
You can also use it to make windows; run a bead around the window edge, then draw a toothpick across the surface. It will make a bubble across the opening. Not as good as clear styrene, glass or acetate, but works great for curved surfaces like car windshields.
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-9&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=3
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
-Ken in Maryland (B&O modeler, former CSX modeler)
Anybody have any luck with this stuff? I got a bottle and tried some yesterday. Stuff takes forever to dry. (overnight) Stuff dries about as clear as dull coat. I pressed on the windows lightly today and they popped right out. It seems like it's nothing more than watered down Elmers glue. I'd be afraid of all my windows falling off in a month with this stuff.
Any similar experiences? Is that GS watch crystal cement that Micro Mark sells any better?