Kevin
Actually I see no reason that the system would not work even if the base was thicker. Just use longer brass pipe's. As long as the out side pipe is stable and lubed with graphite before you drop in the inner one. The biggest criteria is that the arms be equal and not too long.
This is an open source item make any modification anyone likes.
my thoughts
Wishing
Blue Skys
lee
bogp40 wrote:Instead of having the crank above the throwbar, you can accomplish the same with a sideways bellcrack attached below. An elongated hole as used w/ a switch motor is needed under the throwbar. Of coarse this won't be feasable on a thick foam based layout w/o a fairly stiff wire.
This sounds like a great modification to the principal. In the case of the foam sub I would think the piano wire might be the way to go.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Lets try posting a picture again.
This is part of my layout and I,m trying to make every thing that I can myself.
[IMG
Lee
Packer wrote:Well, I was thinking about how to use the Atlas switch machines that came with my turnouts, without having them showing.
Don't just think about it...
This seems like a very cost effective method of doing just that. Thanks again Lee for the info & photo.
Vincent
Wants: 1. high-quality, sound equipped, SD40-2s, C636s, C30-7s, and F-units in BN. As for ones that don't cost an arm and a leg, that's out of the question....
2. An end to the limited-production and other crap that makes models harder to get and more expensive.
Rotorranch wrote: Rather than a paper clip, I suggest you use piano wire. Paper clips are made of soft wire that bends easily. Piano wire is inexpensive, and is made from much better material than a paper clip. Rotor
Rather than a paper clip, I suggest you use piano wire. Paper clips are made of soft wire that bends easily.
Piano wire is inexpensive, and is made from much better material than a paper clip.
Rotor
With all due respect, I have linkages of this type, made with paper clips, that have been giving excellent service since 1981. The advantage of paper clip wire over piano wire is that it's soft enough to precision form easily when making sharp bends.
The forces acting on these links are measured in grams, not pounds.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Lee,
Thanks very much for posting this photo!
The prototype you built looks great...I think it is ingenious in it's simplicity and functionality.
The picture is invaluable. I will be manufacturing some of these in the near future to convert my standard Atlas switch machines to under the table!
This looks as though it could be very similar to what tomikawaTT described using brass pen refil tubes and paper clips. I would think the suggestion regarding piano wire might be a design improvement but I bet they work with the paper clip just fine too.
Thanks again!
Jake: How often does the train go by? Elwood: So often you won't even notice ...
Thanks, Bob! I got the picture and have to say it all makes sense. Truly, a picture IS worth a thousand (maybe more) words!
In addition, I have to say that there are times that I too only get a "red X" in regard to a pcture that has been posted, but clicking on the X and then clicking on "open picture" works at my end of cyber space.
There is no photo because the link is only to Photobucket's main page, and not to any photo in an account: [img ]http://photobucket.com[ /img] . I've added a space in the IMG tags so it will show up.
Bob Boudreau
CANADA
Visit my model railroad photography website: http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/
I must be missing a step some place.
OK I have it corrected
Okkkkkkk here goes we will see if I am able to post this image.
I build this adapter as a rough prototype.
the paper clip is inserted in the small tube before it is bent so it desn't have to be soldered.
I cut a small piece of the larger tube (1/8") to use as a bearing so the crank would not bind.
The larger tube extends about a (1/4") below the deck.
Smooth all pieces with a very fine file. I use a very fine diamond emery board.
Glue the outer tube in place, I put some glue on the middle of it and slide it up from the bottom so that I don't get the glue inside it.
Next drop the arm in from the top with the bearing on it. You can point the lower arm in the direction that has room for the Atlas motor and solder it to the tube. Align the motor with the arm. Of course prefit and check all parts before securing them.
Also I found it best to attach the motor to a !/4" thick piece of Masonite that is 1/2" wider than the motor with pointer hanging off the end. Lock the switch blades in middle tape motor slide in middle slide pointer in loop put one screw in front end of Masonite, you can rotate back end untill get proper action. Choose paper clips that fit smoothly in brass tubes with no slop and even the loop at bottom must be right size with little slop.