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making rivers

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
making rivers
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:22 AM
hi all i just whant to know how to make rivers i have tryed using white glue that dries clear but it takes about 3 weeks to dry fully a long wait does anyone here know of a brand name


codyr





  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:38 AM
Try your local hardware stores, or art supply stores. Normally it is in the paint and finish areas, or with woodworking epoxy and finishes.

http://www.***-blick.com/items/029/18/02918-1006-3ww.jpg

It is really easy to work with... but beware, it sets up level, absolutely level, so if you want to have a "waterfall" let it begin to set, then pour "top down" in small batches. It takes a while to set, and it is EPOXY, so it will destroy most tools, etc. if they are coated. I use a thick tuperware bowl and cheap metal spoons (don't clean the tuperware, let it harden then "pop" it out when it sets, BE SURE THE BOWL HAS A ROUNDED BOTTOM, it is easier to pop out.)

The spoons will be useless after afew sessions, and each session can require up to 24 hours to set completely. The best part is when it hardens, it self de-gasses (no bubbles) and is clear to the bottom. (be sure the bottom structure is worth looking at.) If you want to "cloud" the water, then during your last few pours, sprinkle a little ground foam of brown or green and let it settle in a layered effect. It takes very little ground foam during the pours, and it is not overly expensive so you may want to practice off the board to get the effect you want with an identical bottom structure.

Depth is no problem. The instructions indicate that you shouldn't pour more than 1/4 to 1/2 inch per layer. I have had sucess at greater depths per pour, but be very carefull not to get overzealous as it does SELF LEVEL. I cannot say this enough, becuse it will go places when solvent, just like water. Pinholes, slightly unlevel areas, and overly pourous banks will allow it to crawl or leak. Also, it is a chemical epoxy so it is exothermic. Very little fumes, but a good deal of heat can be created, so plaster is a better form to pour into. (Follow the manufacturers recommendation for temperature to the letter. If it is cold, when you pour, it will be tacky forever... To de-gass faster, fog the pour with your breath a couple of times (try to stay out of the fumes, as I said they are not the fumes you expect, but it is chemically melting plastic, so it can't be good for your health.))

Here's an okay link:
http://www.ztrains.com/pages/workshop/water_part1/water_part1.html

I offer this as personal experience, it has been a beautifull addition to my layouts, and most people are honestly afraid to touch my "wet" areas. They believe it to be actual water, or something that is still drying.

(Last hint... once it is all hardened and no longer tacky, THEN go back and add your banks back down to the water line. The surface tension will have crawled up 1/16th to 1/4 of an inch, so you need to fini***he bank back down to get rid of the glossy crawl area.)

You can find some great info on this subject in the following thread:
http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10214
  • Member since
    February 2001
  • From: US
  • 506 posts
Posted by snowey on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 12:54 AM
there's a few methods. I use acrylic gloss medium, which is a white, passty material that's used bby artists that mixes with acrylic paint, and it dries clear and glossy. It also dries fast, and it cleans up with water. I make a flat base with sculptamold, paint it with flat black acrylic paint, and paint the edges and the river banks a tan color, again with acrylic. Let that dry, then spread the acrylic gloss medium, with just a dab of dark blue acrylic paint added, spead it out, and let it dry. Like I said, it dries clear and glossy, and the paint doesn't affect the shine at all.
Other people use similar methods, look in any of the scenery books, ecspecially the exellent how-to model railroading books by Kalmbach. Ecspecially the book by Dave Fray (I forget the name). This website also has an article on using acrylic gloss medium.
Since it's used by artists, it's availible at art stores.

(I never heard of using white glue before, though, and I've been doing this for almost 20 years , now!!)
"I have a message...Lt. Col....Henry Blakes plane...was shot down...over the Sea Of Japan...it spun in...there were no survivors".
  • Member since
    November 2001
  • From: US
  • 1,720 posts
Posted by MAbruce on Wednesday, January 28, 2004 6:16 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by snowey

there's a few methods. I use acrylic gloss medium, which is a white, passty material that's used bby artists that mixes with acrylic paint, and it dries clear and glossy. It also dries fast, and it cleans up with water.


I used the same, and it turned out very nice. No mess or mixing. You can find it at stores like Michaels or Wal-Mart for a reasonable price. Wait for one of Michael’s 40 or 50 percent off coupons so you can save even more.

I've seen environtex expoxy used and those results were very impressive as well.

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