Removing winterization hatches, or........

[dti406]

For those removing the Winterization Hatch and Steam Generator details a company called Midwest Car and Foundry, PO Box 326, Batavia, Ill. 60510 used to make replacement brass steam generator, forward radiator, rear radiator hatches. Included with the rear radiator hatch was the rivit strip to go where the Winterization hatch would go. With the going away of the Athearn GP-7, I don't know if they are still in business. Rick

[innocent_gentleman]

The P2k will be your best choice as the drive was based on Athearn's design, so the body should fit with minor modifications. The Atlas body/Athearn chassis would probably require a lot more work because of the dissimilar design of the chassis. If you can find a Front Range body that should be drop on fit or pretty close.

 I have used the front range offerred through PPW for five GP9's.  They also have GP7's: http://ppw-aline.com/bdfrgp7.htm  Don't know if you want to go that route and re-model.  Even though I started to use the Athearn body with making modifications I decided to buy their frame as well since I had the cash on hand.  I also didnt like the winterization hatch and didnt want the wide body to boot.

 Don

[aav]

        well,  the last time i tried this surgery i ran into two problems.   1 was i tried to remove the hatch only, but it is way to close to the other fan, plus i quickly figured out that all four fans would have to be replaced becuase the original fans were just a wee bit different than replacement fan and very noticeable once installed. Even with that, fine, no problem.  2 if you look closely there is a thin strip that runs across the roof between the dynamic brake and the fan deck,  that is were it all went south.  the strip is very noticeable but extremely difficult to make with styrene. 

        I had bought a couple of new undec. shells at a train show a couple of years ago for a few bucks.  Thought i'd take another stab at it to see what happens this time around. 

          Thanks,

[Catt]

I disagree with everybody else ,if you like the units go ahead and remove the fan and hatch and replace with a new fan deck and and either DA or DW replacement fan castings or others of your own chosing.

[Soo Line fan]

Back in the day when we had to slice and dice shells, this was a good way:

After carving off the hatch, you need to make a new radiator cover out of thin plastic. Then emboss the rivet detail into it using a punch. Sand down the old cover and glue the new cover over it. Then install new fans.

I agree with everyone else that since it is an old wide-body you would be better off using one of the options mentioned above.

Jim

[modelmaker51]

The P2k will be your best choice as the drive was based on Athearn's design, so the body should fit with minor modifications. The Atlas body/Athearn chassis would probably require a lot more work because of the dissimilar design of the chassis. If you can find a Front Range body that should be drop on fit or pretty close.

[aav]

       Modelmaker51, Jrbernier,  thanks for the info.  Years ago i basically rebuilt them with newer motors and regearing,  both still run great so i'd like to keep them. They should take the narrower shell,  i'm not shure though.  I think i'll go shell hunting first and see what happens.

          Thanks again,

[jrbernier]

  Removing the winterization hatch will be a real bear.  You will need a new rear radiator hatch and two fans - All for an old 'too wide' body shell.  I really feel that would be a waste of your time.

  There are too many better options available:

• Atlas GP7
• P2K GP7 - And yes, one can get parts from Walthers.

  As far as replacement shells that will fit tha old Athearn drive:

• Cary/Bowser - No long made(die destroyed in 1990), maybe eBay or flea markets?
• Front Range/Train Station Products(not sure if these are made any more either)
• The Atlas and P2K shells may not fit the older/wider Athearn chassis.  The Atlas shell is plastic, the lower part with the frame/battery boxes is metal and part of the chassis, IIRC.

  As mentioned, you can buy a new Atlas or P2K GP7 at a very reasonable price.  Good Luck,

Jim

 

[modelmaker51]

As the hatch is molded into the rest of the body, removing it is major surgery. You would have to use a cut0ff disc in a Dremel and cut around the edge of the hatch, then square everything up with files, fill the hole with styrene and sand and fill all the seams and drill a new hole for a new fan.

Railpower is now owned by Athearn and they're not selling the old RPP shells. you might find one on ebay. The old Front Range shell can be made to fit the Athearn frame without much trouble, but it is long out of production, try ebay.

Atlas has a GP-7 that could work,but would also entail some work and their shell is probably available directly from Atlas, check their web site.

LifeLike Proto 2000 also released a GP-7, but getting their older parts is hit or miss. Walthers now owns them.

The all metal Cary body kit was made for the Athearn chassis and is still available, but now through Bowser. This is a kit, so there'll be a lot of drilling and filing of metal etc.

Now if you have one of the real old GP-7, all this is moot, because of the old wide motor, all the newer bodies I mentioned are correct width or "narrow" bodies and won't fit over the old motor.

Unless you're inclined to do all the work I described in the first paragraph, I would forget it and buy one of the newer models mentioned, the Atlas and Proto 2000 models can found at very reasonable prices and they run really well too.

 

[aav]

           I have a couple of older Athearn GP-7's , from the early 90's,  that i need to cut out the winterization hatches on.  I tried this a number of years back but didn't have alot of success. It bacically looked like .  I'd like to hear from anybody who has successfully done this, and could explain the techniques that they used.

          On the other hand,  is there anybody who makes a GP-7 shell w/o winter hatch that would fit these Athearn frames?  Possibly Rail Power or someone else.

             Thanks,