my05hammer wrote:If the locomotives are NOT EVER coupled together, and they are running independently from one another, on separate trains, they will not effect each other.
First off, the E8/9 that I had as a kid was NOT an AHM. It had a very large can motor, with a large flywheel on the back of the motor, and both trucks driven via drive shafts. Anyone know what brand it might have been? Maybe a Model Power?
To really reduce the noise on those, I replace the u-joints and drive shafts with a piece of flexible tubing.
Pathfinder wrote:Here is my Model Power. I replaced the motor with a NWSL but other than that it is stock on the drive side; a few CP details to the shell. And here is the rear truck, beside an SD40-2 one (the picture was taken for another post but shows the large fly wheel):
Here is my Model Power. I replaced the motor with a NWSL but other than that it is stock on the drive side; a few CP details to the shell.
And here is the rear truck, beside an SD40-2 one (the picture was taken for another post but shows the large fly wheel):
Yup, mine was a Model Power.
It had issues and would bairly run when I first got it. In fact that is why the guy sold it to me. It ran real jerky (if it would even run), and lots of the time it just sat there and hummed.
Turned out that there is a sip-joint in the drive line to one of the trucks (front I believe?) that was a flat blade that fit into a slot. If the alignment was off (and it always was) it would bind. So I went to radio shack and bought a can type project motor (for $6.00) that was almost the same dimentions as the Model Power motor, had the same shaft dia, and almost the same length. I also replaced the slip joint in the drive line with an Athearn knuckle setup. It was quiet as a whisper and supper reliable with supper slow crawling speeds after the mods.
The E8 you had as a kid was a Model Power, made by Roco in Austria. They had heavy diecast chassis and the largest can motors in HO. They were very nice engines for the time.
my05hammer wrote:Secondly, the Proto IS a far superior loco to the AHM. But my boy loves the AHM so it was still worth the 36 and change. ;)
But my boy loves the AHM so it was still worth the 36 and change. ;)
It's a good thing you got both brands. You wouldn't want him handling the Protos with all of that fine detail.
Nelson
Ex-Southern 385 Being Hoisted
Texas Zepher wrote:Oh yes it is.
Oh yes it is.
No its not.
If the locomotives are NOT EVER coupled together, and they are running independently from one another, on separate trains, they will not effect each other.
I recieved the AHM today and one of the Proto's.
I stand corrected on 2 issues;
First off, the E8/9 that I had as a kid was NOT an AHM. I thought it was, but after looking at the AHM that I recieved today, my E8/9 I had back in the 80's was another brand. I wish I knew what it was now. It had a very large can motor, with a large flywheel on the back of the motor, and both trucks driven via drive shafts. Anyone know what brand it might have been? Maybe a Model Power?
Secondly, the Proto IS a far superior loco to the AHM.
If you view my video closely and see the yellow/red fuel tank details.. those are the pins that secure the entire body.
Always lift the unit by the fuel tank.
I'll take a shot at Kalmbach and say that they should video tape the new units on thier layout when they are offered by the manufactors. I understand that there might be issues with editing, bandwidth and time. One prospective buyer should be able to look up the video for any locomotive on the market eventually.
At the present time, sites like youtube and others make that task easy.
Hello Hammer,
I have one AHM E8 that was made in the 80s. I also have a small fleet of Proto E units. The difference is incredible! You won't be disappointed with the P2K E unit. Beautifully detailed, smooth solid puller, and "heavy as a brick!" (don't drop one on your foot )
Word of caution: Be very carefull when handling. Those pretty lift rings on the roof, unfortunately, break easily. I've broken a number on several e-units and am going to replace them with metal rings that I bought at my LHS. I now make sure that the palm of my hand does not touch the roof whenever I carry one of these units.
Last I checked, the individual body shells are not availabe, however, you can call Walthers on their toll free number and ask a customer service rep.
Check ebay, regularly. I picked up a P2K E7 body (L&N) in excellent condition for $14!
"I like my Pullman Standards & Budds in Stainless Steel flavors, thank you!"
my05hammer wrote:These locos will not be coupled together so difference in speed is not an issue.
Do you mean you are going to run the protos together or the protos with the AHM? It might be better to just pull the motor off the one truck of the AHM and use it as a dummy.
Don Gibson wrote:Different Manufacturers generally means dfferent drives & different speeds - and probably different couplers, as well. Never mind, you got a 'deal', right?.
Different Manufacturers generally means dfferent drives & different speeds - and probably different couplers, as well. Never mind, you got a 'deal', right?.
These locos will not be coupled together so difference in speed is not an issue. Couplers will all be Kadee.
I did make a mistake on the price of the AHM, I paid $36.40 total for it. I think it was a deal.
That is comparing a 1971 Ford V8 that breathes to a fuel injected and charged engine today.
Both can run. But getting one that runs well is the journey.
Here are my Proto E7's under DCS200 DCC and equippted with QSI.
http://img532.imageshack.us/img532/377/waltherse7unitsqv3.flv
Just keep telling yourself that, over and over - how about 20 years from now?
Meanwhile you are in an excellent position to compare 'Apples' and 'Oranges' - after you "tweak" the AHM 'Orange'.
I have an AHM e8, when it ran I was pleased, but its been out of action for years. needs new motor, etc, I wont be ressurecting it. I have an AHM BL2, pulls like crazy and runs sweet.
Trying to remember if NWSL had a regear for it or not.
Its a good model, pre-today's stuff. Often the model magazines reviews had been good on the Rivarrossi models except for the deep flanges, with reasonable details. But consider... I have Athearn's RDC's, rubber band drive...onoooos. Ernst had their gearing kit. Well, there are newer RDC's out there, so I plan to sell off my RDC's, when I am ready for RDC's again, I'll get the newer ones, I think Bachman or LL had them
I love my P2K's E8's I got three of them and they are all wonderful engines. The only thing to say about is that you should be careful when handling them due to their fine details, especially the grab irons. But that is not a bad thing, just be careful.
Magnus
I have two of each. I've had the Rivarossi's (AHM) for about 20 years. A good mid price range performed. The P2K is simply in a different class. It is top of the line if you don't count brass. Outstanding performer, excellent detail, and sound. I got both of mine when Walthers had them on sale for about a hundred bucks. They were a steal.
Unfortunately, all Walthers offered in the NYC paint scheme was the A units. I would like to get a B unit with compatible paint scheme but I don't see one currently offered. I might try hunting down one of those old Rivarossi dummy B units in NYC livery.
Dr. Frankendiesel aka Scott Running BearSpace Mouse for president!15 year veteran fire fighterCollector of Apple //e'sRunning Bear EnterprisesHistory Channel Club life member.beatus homo qui invenit sapientiam
Proto = 2008 Mercedes.
AHM = 1988 Yugo.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
OK... I have been out of the hobby for a long time so bear with this question. When I was a kid in high school back in the 80's it was taboo to even think of buying a Bachmann or Life Like Loco. With that said... I just bought an old AHM E8 and two LifeLike/Proto E8's on ebay.
Now with a couple of tricks I discovered how to get an AHM E8 to run smooth as glass back when I bought my first one in 1986 and the detail on the shell was good enough for me. So I am thinking.... What are the Proto E8's going to be like compaired to the old AHM? I have never seen the Proto's in person. I just got the old AHM new in box (NOS) for $41.00, I paid $70.90 for a Proto E8 L&N and $60.39 for another Proto E8 B&O. I hope they are worth the 131.00 bucks.
I plan on fixing the drive on the AHM and giving it to my son if the proto's are what everyone says they are. I would also like to get two undecorated shells for the Proto E8's. Is this possible? Does Proto sell undecked shells for the E8's?