Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
The gel is too thick, I would not recommend it for the type of join you're trying to make. For a CA join you want the medium thickness or medium viscousity CA. While the gel type is gap-filling, it has too much filler in it for s good long term bong and becomes very brittle with age. I never use it for any model work.
The best adhesives for wood to plastic would be epoxy or Gorilla glue (which must be clamped). Contact cement can work, but can also attack the plastic if not applied right. Epoxy is probably the most forgiving.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
For wood to styrene, I like contact cement. Follow the manufacturer's instructions (don't skimp on the drying time before assembly), and recoat the wood if too much of the first coat is absorbed. You can either rough-up the styrene with sandpaper or prep it with a coat of lacquer thinner befor applying the contact cement. The crane pictured below was built over 35 years ago, using styrene for the major components and basswood shapes for the handrails, bracing and reinforcing members, and the bonds are still solid today. The crane runway is a recent addition, and is made from styrene shapes cemented together with lacquer thinner.
Wayne
Goop (several varieties) is a fairly good glue, but watch it on or near any foam products...not pretty.
I have used Gorilla Glue to good effect. A little goes a long way, and you are to very slightly wet each of the surfaces to set off the curing process. If you use it like MEK on styrene models, you will have it foaming slightly outside the joint...hence my warning to use just a sheen of it. You might be advised to score or rough up the styrene first, no matter what you use. Only where you need to place the glue, of course.
I would like to fasten some bass wood to styrene, what glue should I use?
Mike