Thanks Dave,
I tried filling the gap between the rails and the frog point with JB WELD. Letting it setup overnight and cure good. Will try the hacksaw blade method and see what happens.
TheK4Kid
Cut a wedge shaped piece of .010 inch thick plastic about 7/16 inch long and just wide enough to fit into the bottom of the track flange at the frog. A drop of glue on the underside will be enough to hold it in place. A dab of paint will conceal it perfectly. This procedure will eliminate the "Pot Hole" effect. It will not help derails caused by out of gauge wheelsets or uneven trackwork. A bit of fine tuning by adding thickness or filing more depth to match the flange depth of your rolling stock will provide a perfect running surface through the frog for either the tangent or the diverging route. It can be done in place with minimal effort and no damage to the turnout.
Another item to look at is correct alignment of rolling stock wheels in the right/left axis of the axle. Wheels may be in gauge but out of alignment with other wheels far enough to cause derailment at a frog or at the points. A coupler poorly aligned may also cause enough side force on wheels to derail a car.
Trying pics again. Maybe this time.
Thanks Dave, I tried using JB WELD epoxy.
Was going to work on cutting and grinding it to perfection today, but while plowing snow and trying to remove a rock that became wedged in my big TORO snow thrower, I managed to pinch the BY GOSSSHHH out of my left middle index fingerand it is black and blue all the way fro my fingertip to the first joint.HURTS like the BEDIKENS, so working with small tools is out for today!
TheK4 Kid
TheK4Kid,
Sorry about the finger. I wish you a speedy recovery. In my view, the epoxy route is a lot of work, might adversely affect some rolling stock, and is hard to remove. The plastic insert is quick, simple, and easy to modify or remove, and does not affect rolling stock. Both work. In any case, your call. Good Luck.