Soldering iron question....

[MudHen_462]

I am just getting back into HO model railroading after a 40 year absence.....
and I feel like Rip Van Winkle ! I need to buy a soldering iron, and I am looking
at an ISO-TIP unit. Does anyone out there have experience with such a unit.
I am wondering if there is a problem with this "battery-operated" unit reaching
proper temp. for soldering ? I like the idea of "cordless" operation, and the
compactness of the unit. If there is a problem, I'll drop back to a "pencil" iron.

If anyone has one, or knows anything about this unit, I would really appreciate your words of wisdom on the subject.... Thanks. IronGoat

[nfmisso]

IG;

The battery operated ones are fine for really light duty stuff, like circuit boards, small wires (smaller than 26 guage). For track work, and larger wiring you need 25W to 30W, some people need more, but I have not heard of anyone needing less.

Rosin (non-acid) flux and pre-tinning greatly help reduce the iron power requirements.

[bcammack]

I've used an 18w Weller pencil iron for over twenty years now.

Nigel's right on about flux and pretinning. If you don't want melted ties it should be like a guerilla "hit-and-run" operation. Iron completely up to temp, clean, tinned materials to be joined, and wet it with just a dab of solder as the tip hits the joint to maximize heat flow.

I recommend a chisel tip, too, not a pointed "pencil" tip. You don't get good contact for heat transfer with a pointed tip and you end up at odd angles with the iron to improve the contact area.

Regards,
Brett C. Cammack
League City, TX

[AntonioFP45]

Appreciate the info about the chiseled shaped tip.

What also needs to be mentioned is to use 60/40 Rosin Core Solder.

[mcouvillion]

IronGoat,

Do a Google search for Antex soldering irons. I've had one for 15+ years and it is great. Built in the UK, gets hot as a pistol, and has interchangeable tips of various sizes and shapes. There are many varieties that are available. I ordered mine from a company that was in Pennsylvania (I think).

I had to use the tiniest tip a few weeks ago to re-solder the power wires to my pinhole video camera. Now that was an experience! All tiny surface mount stuff wrapped in heat-shrink tubing. Too much heat too long and the whole camera is ruined. I got it repaired, though. Works great with heavier power wires now. Good luck.

Mark C.

[Fergmiester]

QUOTE: Originally posted by nfmisso

IG;

The battery operated ones are fine for really light duty stuff, like circuit boards, small wires (smaller than 26 guage). For track work, and larger wiring you need 25W to 30W, some people need more, but I have not heard of anyone needing less.

Rosin (non-acid) flux and pre-tinning greatly help reduce the iron power requirements.

Nigel's on the money

I have four different implements of pain, and from where I hurt, which burn equally well.

My next unit will be a weller variable wattage. Precise intense heat, which doesn't destroy the surrounding medium, is the best.


Cordless is good but limited, as they seem to run out of juice at the worst possible time.

Fergie

[MudHen_462]

Thanks for the information, Guys !

Bob

[Pruitt]

I use a Weller 100/140 watt soldering gun with good results.