tupstersI just purchased a Suydam roundhouse kit #8, but it came without any directions. I only have "part 3". Would you happen to have directions for this kit?
I believe that you need the following:
http://www.hoseeker.org/suydam/suydam08threestallroundhousepg1.jpg
http://www.hoseeker.org/suydam/suydam08threestallroundhousepg2.jpg
http://www.hoseeker.org/suydam/suydam08threestallroundhousepg3.jpg
SilverSpike Welcome to the MR Fourms Bill I have the old Suydam Roundhouse kit that I am currently renovating and here is a recent image with the roof removed.... The basic technique that I have used in the past is to create a jig with a large flat piece of 1/4" plywood or some other flat base material that I can use that will accept push pins or T-pins and that allow me to line up the metal pieces in place and then apply the solder. I also have a small metal jig with magnets that can line up smaller pieces too. I also have used clamps to temporarily hold the two metal pieces together while the soldering is being done. You can use the spot solder joint method or the method described in the other reply. In any case you will want to make sure that the metal items to be joined are both hot enough to melt the solder and thus ensuring a solid solder point/joint. Hope this helps! Ryan
Welcome to the MR Fourms Bill
I have the old Suydam Roundhouse kit that I am currently renovating and here is a recent image with the roof removed....
The basic technique that I have used in the past is to create a jig with a large flat piece of 1/4" plywood or some other flat base material that I can use that will accept push pins or T-pins and that allow me to line up the metal pieces in place and then apply the solder. I also have a small metal jig with magnets that can line up smaller pieces too. I also have used clamps to temporarily hold the two metal pieces together while the soldering is being done.
You can use the spot solder joint method or the method described in the other reply. In any case you will want to make sure that the metal items to be joined are both hot enough to melt the solder and thus ensuring a solid solder point/joint.
Hope this helps!
Ryan
Hi, I just purchased a Suydam roundhouse kit #8, but it came without any directions. I only have "part 3". Would you happen to have directions for this kit? I saw your roundhouse pic and I'm thinking that you may have the directions for it!
thanx,
John
Blind Bruce wrote:I built me Suydam roundhouse when I was a kid. I used a solder gun and rosin flus cause it was all I had. I don't recall having any problems other than discoloration of the metal but the spray paint covered it well.
I built a couple of their kits using rosin core solder; the rosin residue was a real mess. Paint would not stick to it. If you do solder, use an acid flux ment for soldering metals. Since I also do stained glass, if I do another one, I would use my 100W soldering iron, 60/40 solid solder and Ruby Red liqiud flux.
George In Midcoast Maine, 'bout halfway up the Rockland branch
You can use the thick gap filling super glue on the metal buildings. This is one I'm building for a background building.
I think I would try JB-Quick from JB-Weld. JB-Quick is a 5 minjute epoxy meant for metal to metal and dissimilar materials. It's fast, rock hard and can be drilled, carved and sanded and it will have the shear strength that ACC doesn't have. This one of my top 3 adhesives.
Use JB-Weld when you need a longer adjustment time.
Jay
C-415 Build: https://imageshack.com/a/tShC/1
Other builds: https://imageshack.com/my/albums
Blind Bruce wrote:Epoxy dries too slow and ACC too unforgiving. These kits were designed to be soldered together.
Yep....that's why I say experiment! Sometimes they don't work out like you planned!
Ryan BoudreauxThe Piedmont Division Modeling The Southern Railway, Norfolk & Western & Norfolk Southern in HO during the merger eraCajun Chef Ryan
73
Bruce in the Peg
Jerry SP FOREVER http://photobucket.com/albums/f317/GAPPLEG/
I have not tried using CA or other adhesives on the Suydam metal kits, but like anything else I am always willing to experiment on new techniques.
That's all you can do is try it out with a few pieces first, the worst that can happen is that the two pieces did not stick. Then just go back to square one, solder, or try another adhesive.
I have at least one of those kits laying around for future use. ACC was not around when Suydam developed their metal kits. I would think now-a-days you could use acc instead of solder. It would seem to be quicker and easier.
Tilden
I wonder if it woudn't be just as good to rough up the mating surfaces and use thick CA to do the joining. Its been awhile since I've done one of those kits,but the last one I tried to solder I sure messed up. Hmm, might have to try another one.
I've seen those kits weathered really cool by just leaving them out side in the rain for a few days.
Use C-clamps to hold pieces in alingment while soldering and to keep stuff square. Us soft wood pads where necessary to keep clamps from maring the work. You might find a torch works better than an iron on the big pieces. Use a wet rag or heat sink on already soldered pieces to keep them from unsoldering while you work on other joints.
When these kits were developed we didn't have epoxies and AC glues. I haven't tried gluing one of these together, but think either of these glues would work just fine if you don't want to solder.
Ditto on the comments about the windows. Putting a present day detailed window casting in the openings would really dress these kits up.
Have fun and please post a picture of your project when you finish
hope this helps
JBB
At a recent train show, I purchased two metal kits (kit number 1 furniture factory and kit number 7 wareheouse) in the original yellow Suydam boxes. The instructions state to solder the joints. I am getting ready to assemble the first kit, and was wondering if anyone has suggestions or hints on how to assemble the structures with solder. This will be my first time assembling metal structures with solder. I have succesfully assembled structures from plastic and wood never metal. Any suggestions and hints will be greatfully appreciated.
Thank-you
Bill