Absolutely, ditto. Thanks, Nick. I would have thought the styrene would snap to have such a tight bend in it at the top of the falls, but it must be because it is so thin that this does not happen? Anyhow, thanks for sharing. The before and after shots really help the scene come to life.
FT
Thanks guys,
I pilfered the technique from Lou Sassi's Basic Scenery for Model Railroads.
Here's the site just under construction. I used WS N scale cut store retaining walls for the dam:
After the texture and outfall base:I used a mix of Coarse WS Iron Ore, Brown and Dark Brown ballast for the stream bed, and various grades Brown talus at the bottom of the outfall and dam.
I first epoxied the .01" clear styrene to the top of the dam. After the epoxy set for a few days, I simply bent the styrene down to the stream bed. I used a few dabs of Lexel to secure it, holding it in place with a couple pins until the Lexel set. Then, I added the streaks with white paint, and concealed the bottom of the styrene with a little more talus.
Next, I applied Lexel over the talus at the base of the outfall, and the stream bed. I used my finger to smooth the Lexel and shape the rapids. After the Lexel set, I dabbed some white paint on the rapids. Then, I coated with outfall and rapids with acrylic gloss medium.
For the water in the pond behind the dam, I feathered a couple colors of craft paint together and then coated is with acrylic gloss medium.
And that as they say is that:
Information about Lexel can be found at:http://www.sashcosealants.com/Home_Improvement/Lexel.aspx
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
nbrodar wrote:I used a piece of clear styrene, streaked with white paint, and then coated with acrylic gloss medium, to make this outfall. The rapids at the bottom are a crystal clear sealent called Lexel:Nick
I used a piece of clear styrene, streaked with white paint, and then coated with acrylic gloss medium, to make this outfall. The rapids at the bottom are a crystal clear sealent called Lexel:
Nick, that's a great looking effect! I too would like to know how you acheived the overall effect. Thanks for sharing!
Nick -
How did you get the curved effect at the top of the waterfall in this picture? Do you use a soldering iron or heat gun and "bend" it while it is warm? I really like the look of this waterfall. Thanks for sharing it.
To make this waterfall, I layered vertical beads of Lexel over a plaster rock casting, and added some streaks of white paint:
Try this method, I've mentioned it for several folks like yourself with limited resources.
Caulking and "MINWAX" brand clear polycrylic sealer. The caulking that comes in a tube used in construction is the least expensive for the amount and the MINWAX in a large can is also very cost effective for all of your water needs.
1.) If you want waterfalls, start with white foam, cardboard or some other similar product. Layer the base in steps going down the river you are building. Figure were you want water falls and then glue the pieces together with Elemers Wood Glue.
2.) Apply the cauking in layers and as it dries use an old paint brush to create waves or rapids by lifting up the caulk slightly, if it sags, fine, water does not remain in one place very long. After the caulk is dry paint with acrylic paints, usually blues and greens are OK, save mud colors for the Colorado River!
3.) Let the paint and all dry overnight. Then using an old paintbrush apply thin layers of MINWAX to the whole water falls scene, each layer takes about 2-3 hours before the next layer but you can paint on thicker layers, but drying takes longer.
4.) The whole process is odor free, water cleanup and the purchase of bulk home improvement products will be more cost effective than buying hobby-type products in the long run.
5.) Final step; the effects of the rapids is easily done with painting the tips of the wave and rapids with either white bath tub sealer or white paint, then paint on one last thin coat of MINWAX and be prepared to get your Kayak wet.
the best,
johncpo, modeler of Military, Aircraft and now HO for about 40 some years
I've tried several brands of "clear" silicone caulk, and none of them dry clear, they all dry cloudy.
These waterfalls were made with successive coats of clear craft glue, a LOT of coats, up to 20 or 30, with white enamel paint applied every 5 coats or so with a tiny brush. Less paint is "more", you can always add paint later, but once it's on, there's no taking it off short of starting over.
After the waterfalls were in and dried, they formed "dams" which allowed me to use WS heat and pour water beads to form the rest of the river. A speckled blue coffee cup from the camping section at Walmart, some roll flashing, and a large hose clamp made a nice crucible with a narrow spout to heat and pour the water beads easily and precisely.
Tin cans have some sort of waxy interior surface which flaked off and fouled the molten water material.
The WS stuff has high surface tension, so you need to have a pointy stick handy to dress the edges (pull material up the bank till the edges are reasonably smooth), and not pour too long a section before going back to dress the edges, or else it'll harden too early, and force you to re-sculpt the stream banks.
The two types of clear glue used for the falls were
SF Clear Glue, All Purpose Craft, from Frank's Nursery
and
Aleene's Clear Gel Tacky Glue (which dries hard as a rock), currently available in the craft section at Wal-mart.
For large falls I use white micro fiber, pulled thin and orientated down. Sometimes I add a little white paint dry brushed on for effect. For Yellowstone Falls I combined the two to match the prototype.
For small falls I use clear caulk.
I do not consider myself an expert, but offer these as an illustration of what a little patience, practice and imagination can do. The Yosemite Falls in the pics is the forth attempt.
You could try clear silicone. Others have used twisted clear cellophane.
Joe Fugate has a lot of information at the link below. You may find something useful on page 4.
http://siskiyou-railfan.net/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?1270.30
Hi everyone,
I'm making a waterfall with plaster and sure would appreciate some suggestions please.
I want to use old inexpensive techniques as money is in short supply.
For my scenery I will be using sawdust,actual rocks for cliffs, tree foliage will be made out of coconut fibre, twigs and ground foam.
God bless and a very joyous Christmas to you all, Alan.