Future of Switch Machines

[fwright]

What about memory wire? Huib Maaskant in Holland has a great web site where he describes how he uses memory wire to throw switches. The way he uses memory wire, you dont need to dig a hole under the turnout.

An even easier way to power the frog in this solution is to use a DPDT switch (no center off).  One pole is an on/off switch for the memory wire, the other pole selects the correct polarity for the frog.  This avoids the relay and the resulting noise.

yours in turnout throwing and powered frogs

Fred W

[dinwitty]

I was just thinking of all the switches I have installed and my idea of installing the switch machines later. My plan was to use the tortoise. After trying to do this, with not the best results, I opted for caboose manual ground throws. Not really suited for my present day layout. I know everyone says it is easy to install them, but I started laying my track on 4"s of foam on top of 1/2" plywood with really sturdy benchwork. It seems there is to much stuff going against me under the layout and I don't feel like ripping up my track like I saw a new technique for mounting them in foam. Especially for 26 switches! I was thinking what does the protype switch machine look like today and why isn't our switch machines similar in look and design. It seems to me that if we can have remote control helicopters that are 4"s in lenghth, which I just saw at the mall for $29, why can't we have a protypical switch machine? Or maybe I just don't get it. Come to think of it what do protype switch machines look like?

I make a throw using piano wire and brass tubing. Go thru any thickness you want.

 

[sfcgadget]

Caboose Industries has a good product. I have used they for several years without problems. That is more than I can say about electric ones I still have in many places. If you are using the standard (non contact) type, I can't think of a problem that could not be worked around. If you need space under the throw for the type with contacts, try a mortise chisel where you would need to either go thru the layers or atleast get clearance. It would be a little tricky attached to a drill instead of a drillpress, but it might work. Foam and plywood isn't too tough.

[modelmaker51]

As far as anchoring Caboose throws, I use lowtemp hot glue, a little dab on the bottom plate and then put it in place on the foam. Be sure to tape the points in th  cetered position and the throw also in te certer (handle straight up).i've attached over 50 of them this way. You can use  a long throw N scale ground throw for better appearance in HO.

[jcgisel]

That flea is the kind of thing i have been talking about.Wow! Glad to see that something new and exciting is coming out for switches. I actually was thinking of buying a small motor and experimenting with what i could come up with. Those fleas look like a great thing exept for the price. Have I known about them before I bought all my switches I might have used them. And that memory wire is pretty cool. Glad to see people have not accepted that there is only one way to make things work.That was some great thinking outside of the box.

[rxanand]

What about memory wire? Huib Maaskant in Holland has a great web site where he describes how he uses memory wire to throw switches. The way he uses memory wire, you dont need to dig a hole under the turnout.

[cacole]

The Flea is getting close to prototypical size, although its present incarnation fits under a turnout and it is provided only on Walthers or Peco code 83 products.

http://www.cypress-engineering.com/ModelRailroad.htm

 

[Don Gibson]

IT IS whatever it takes to do the job:  whether pneumatic, electric, or hand throw. Otherwise you have a train wreck. In MODELING we try for what looks real, but generally settle for less (Compromise?).

ELECTRIC - Push button or toggle activated:                                                                                                                  1. Atlas Switch machines: Oversized, ugly, but cheap (and top mounted).                            2. "Tortoise' or motor types: Bigger yet, requiring under-table mounting. More expensive but 'kinder' and 'gentler' to your turnouts.

MANUAL - Mechanical and Hand operated:                                                                      1. Flexible cables with push rods. 2. Caboose Ground throws. Both require solid anchoring.

OTHER:                                                                                                                      1. 1. KATO turnouts come with roadbed and 'invisible' machines.                                            2. PECO turnouts - (a) under table for electrical mounting  (b) mechabical spring factuation for 'reachable' turnouts.  3. Can you do away with turnouts entirely? 

FOAM base for plywood  substitution creates  'anchoring' problems: therefor work best with those listed under 1. or ''OTHER''.

SORRY about the Indexing. It's MR's auto formating.

 

[jcgisel]

I just looked att this web sight and the motor shown is pretty small.http://www.precisionmicrodrives.com/product_info.php?products_id=187&osCsid=98781f656103dfa0f79a909120889f2a

[BigRusty]

I would like to see a scale switch motor that would be mounted to the headblock per Chips photo. It would be connected to the switch throwbar at the end, not in the center of the track.

The actual switch machine, whether tortoise, twin coil or push wires would have a rod up into the dummy machine, instead of in the center of the track.

That would eliminate the need to drill a hole in the center of the track and make it easier to adjust the throw because the hole under the dummy could be bigger.

[jcgisel]

Examine, if you will, spacemouse's photograph and you should see what the problem is. His photograph shows a switch machine which I would estimate to be approximately thirty prototype inches in length; that translates down to a scale 11/32nds of an inch long. I don't think anyone makes motors 11/32nds of an inch long.

Maybe in the future but that future ain't gonna arrive day after tomorrow!

Thats what I thought until i looked at these tiny remote controlled helicopters. The tail rotor had an ultra small motor in it and was definiately smaller than a half an inch. If you could shove that into a silver colored box with electronics in it to control the direction it went, I bet it could look really prototypical. I just don't think we are at the top of our technology in our switch dept. We can contol everything in the train with dcc and a computer, but the swiches offered today don't seem as high tech as they could be. Or as cheap. Just a thought but I think this could be a good idea for someone to try. And if they are cheaper and work reliably I think they would have a huge market.  I'll take 26! Maybe I should talk to my father-in-law who was a electical engineer for lockeed. 

[stokesda]

I personally prefer to keep all the mechanism parts under the layout. Any mechanism-looking objects on top would be purely for looks. The thing in Spacemouse's photo would scale down too small to be an actual mechanism, but could be added as a static detail part (maybe somebody already makes these detail parts - if not, maybe they should!)

As for switch mechanisms, I like using the old trusty DPDT slide switch with a music wire actuating rod and a control lever made out of coat hanger wire.

[R. T. POTEET]

Examine, if you will, spacemouse's photograph and you should see what the problem is. His photograph shows a switch machine which I would estimate to be approximately thirty prototype inches in length; that translates down to a scale 11/32nds of an inch long. I don't think anyone makes motors 11/32nds of an inch long.

Maybe in the future but that future ain't gonna arrive day after tomorrow!

[cwclark]

Maybe even with a radio control switch that mounts on the fascia. now that kind if technology should be here already.

 

That technology is already here. Digitrax DCC radio control allows the operator to enter an address of a turnout and throw the switch with a set up like a tortoise and a hare.

    Another thing that's been around for many years is a device called a "spring switch." SP used them extensively. The locomotive wheels itself would force the points over and put the train on a siding. Two opposing spring switches would keep one train on a siding to the right (or left) and an oncomming train comming in the opposite direction kept to the main track . These Spring switches also had a small silver box next to them.

[jcgisel]

Spacemouse that is what I was thinking of. I think I have also seen a silver box that probably has that inside. So do guys think that eventually with electronics getting smaller along with motors that some day we will have a switch machine that looks prototypical that I can mount ontop of the layout and function the same as the real ones. Maybe even with a radio control switch that mounts on the fascia. now that kind if technology should be here already.

[tomikawaTT]

Prototype powered point actuators seem to come in a variety of designs.  Some are simple boxes that look like flat relay cases, fixed to the headblock ties where a manual switch stand would normally go.  Others resemble Atlas HO machines, but about 1/10th the size.  [edit.. That's the type Chip (Spacemouse) shows in the post before mine.)  Your best bet is to look at photos of trackwork, preferably trackwork used by the prototype you model.

I personally mount all of my switch actuators, powered and manual, at the aisle edge of the benchwork just inside the fascia line.  Connection to the points is by Anderson link and cables under the subgrade.  The Anderson link may be mounted either ahead of or behind the throw bar, and anywhere along its length, which gives some leeway when trying to dodge under-roadbed obstacles.  I personally use benchwork that has the characteristics of classic Westcott L-girder design, and I won't hesitate a heartbeat to move a joist if it interferes with something like a switch linkage.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[SpaceMouse]

[jcgisel]

I was just thinking of all the switches I have installed and my idea of installing the switch machines later. My plan was to use the tortoise. After trying to do this, with not the best results, I opted for caboose manual ground throws. Not really suited for my present day layout. I know everyone says it is easy to install them, but I started laying my track on 4"s of foam on top of 1/2" plywood with really sturdy benchwork. It seems there is to much stuff going against me under the layout and I don't feel like ripping up my track like I saw a new technique for mounting them in foam. Especially for 26 switches! I was thinking what does the protype switch machine look like today and why isn't our switch machines similar in look and design. It seems to me that if we can have remote control helicopters that are 4"s in lenghth, which I just saw at the mall for $29, why can't we have a protypical switch machine? Or maybe I just don't get it. Come to think of it what do protype switch machines look like?