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How Can I fix This ???
How Can I fix This ???
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der5997
Member since
September 2002
From: Nova Scotia, Northumberland Shore
2,479 posts
Posted by
der5997
on Saturday, January 10, 2004 9:16 PM
Jeremy: If you are looking for prototype justification for michaelstevens' solution, it sounds quite like the hook and chain coupler system used in the UK for frieght (goods) service!
On getting into knuckle couplers more cheaply, it's sometimes possible to get knuckle equiped cars for less than the price of a pair of new knuckle coupler sets at train shows and swap meets. Just a thought, and I add my prayers for healing for your girlfirend.
"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.
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JeremyB
Member since
March 2003
From: Canada
1,745 posts
Posted by
JeremyB
on Saturday, January 10, 2004 8:23 AM
Thanks for all the tips guys, and the kind words.
Jeremy
Reply
michaelstevens
Member since
September 2003
From: Philadelphia
440 posts
Posted by
michaelstevens
on Friday, January 9, 2004 5:10 PM
[8D]
JeremyB,
Here's my solution again -- this time I'll edit it so that its legible !![:)]
I also have a large collection of HO cars and locos, which came with (original equipment) horn-hook couplers, have "talgo" trucks etc.. No matter how well adjusted and lubricated, they may be; there is always the chance that they will disconnect and usually at an inaccessible location, on the layout.
Here's a solution (perhaps I should patent this) which I use to lightly and loosely "lock" a pair of couplers together.
Take light gauge (e.g. 14) malleable wire and a ¼" wide pair of needle nose pliers.
Grip the last ¼" of the wire and bend to 90 deg.
Grip up side of the bend and bend again.
Keep going until you have completed a ¼" square "link", then cut it free.
Hang the link on the horn of one coupler.
Manipulate the second coupler (by picking up the car) so that the horn passes thru the link and the two hooks become engaged.
Re-rail both cars and you are in business.
Uncoupling, of course requires picking up at least one of the cars, to reverse the process.
I find this system especially effective on a push-pull passenger consist or on loco lash-ups, where I may want to keep locos paired together, for extended periods.
Good luck.
[:D]Mike in Philly[:D]
British Mike in Philly
Reply
dknelson
Member since
March 2002
From: Milwaukee WI (Fox Point)
11,439 posts
Posted by
dknelson
on Friday, January 9, 2004 4:49 PM
it might be that the horn hook couplers are too tight -- sometimes for example the cover over them on an Athearn car is pressing on the coupler and keeps it from swinging freely. They need to be able to spring back and forth easily
Another possible problem is a bit of flash in the hook part -- the part that touches the other coupler -- might be keeping the two from locking together the way they should.
Horn hooks have many faults -- not the least when you try to back up the train -- but the fundamental engineering was done by some pretty bright people and if properly constructed and installed with care they should at least keep cars coupled quite well.
Some slight wobble is normal over turnout frogs. If the wobble seems excessive it might be that the truck is too loose on the car -- too tight and it derails but too loose and the car shakes.
Dave Nelson
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nfmisso
Member since
December 2001
From: San Jose, California
3,154 posts
Posted by
nfmisso
on Friday, January 9, 2004 4:34 PM
Jeremy;
I hope things work out for your girlfriend.
You need to gradually switch over to knuckle couplers, and consider selling some of your fleet to fund the conversion. On the tech side, first you want to have a couple of cars with knuckles on one end, and X2Fs (horn-hook) on the other. Start the the knuckles on your worst offenders. You will also need a Kadee #205 height guage.
On some turnouts (Atlas) the frog is a bit too high. If you run your finger along the rails through the frog you will feel it. If this is the problem, file it down, use a big file to get close, then finer grades of sand paper finishing up with 1000 or 2000 grade to get rid of much of the roughness.
The other possibility is that your flanges are too big, you'll need a NMRA guage to check.
Nigel N&W in HO scale, 1950 - 1955 (..and some a bit newer too) Now in San Jose, California
Reply
Anonymous
Member since
April 2003
305,205 posts
Posted by
Anonymous
on Friday, January 9, 2004 4:00 PM
cars quite often wobble through frogs because the gap in the rail takes away support from one of the wheels. The amount of wobble is dependant on the size of the gap but it should never be very noticable.
Go through the cars that uncouple and test the return spring pressure by pushing the horn off centre and seeing how much it reists. You might find that the plastic spring has taken a set and gone soggy. In that case replace it but remeber that horn hook couplers cost about ten pence each unlike knuckle couplers.
Hope you girlfriend gets better.
neil
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Edit
JeremyB
Member since
March 2003
From: Canada
1,745 posts
How Can I fix This ???
Posted by
JeremyB
on Friday, January 9, 2004 3:31 PM
Hi Guys
I use horn hook couplers on my cars I find that sometimes they un couple when going into curves how can this be fixed. My girlfreind just got out of the hospital after going trough treatments for Leukemia and we don't have the money to spend on 100's of knuckle coulers so any help would be great. also is it normal for cars to wobble slightly when traveling over a a turnouts frogs.
thanks for any help
Jeremy
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