Hawks05 wrote:I figured the SD40-2 wouldn't be bad at all, but the SD60 would be pushing my limits. Well that makes me feel like I'll be buying a couple Athearn RTR Canadian Pacific SD40-2's now within the coming weeks hopefully, maybe a large Soo SD60.Do you have any photos of your current or past layout with the Soo power running? Or know of any Soo websites with photos?
Sorry but I do not yet own a digital camera.
What I did on the Kato was to use Kadee extended shank couplers. Later I switched to regular length "whisker" couplers. They have more lateral play due to the lack of the metal spring. This kept them coupled to cars with the tight radius. I used them on the P2K SD 60s as well.
I cannot comment on the Athearn models.
Jim
Athearn Blue Box SD40-2's will go around 22" curves no problem. Unsure about 18" curves, will check when I find mine (eventually). I think they will handle #4 turnouts not problem.
I don't have any SD60's, can't answer that one.
Brad
EMD - Every Model Different
ALCO - Always Leaking Coolant and Oil
CSX - Coal Spilling eXperts
Soo Line fan wrote: Hawks05 wrote:Still wondering if getting that SD40-2 or SD60 would be stretching my limits on that small 4x8?My first layout was based on the SOO using a 4x8 with 18r curves. I ran Kato SD40-2s and P2K SD60s all day with no derailments. I had a choice of not running my favorite SOO engines or running them with a little overhang. I chose to run them and was glad I did. Jim
Hawks05 wrote:Still wondering if getting that SD40-2 or SD60 would be stretching my limits on that small 4x8?
My first layout was based on the SOO using a 4x8 with 18r curves. I ran Kato SD40-2s and P2K SD60s all day with no derailments. I had a choice of not running my favorite SOO engines or running them with a little overhang. I chose to run them and was glad I did.
CPRail modeler wrote:Why don't you try this CP/SOO roster site?www.mountainrailway.comHope it helps!
Why don't you try this CP/SOO roster site?
www.mountainrailway.com
Hope it helps!
fwright wrote:If you are willing to start over, something like this might suit what you want to do a little better, and will fit in the same space, assuming you have access to the 4x8 on 3 sides. See http://www.layoutdesignservice.com/lds/samples/betterbeginnerlayout.htmDisadvantage is a duck under. And you have to rebuild and cut up what you have. Advantages: wider radius and bigger track plan better suited to your modern era and prototype in HO. Sectional construction can be taken apart when you move. Will fit larger industries and longer trains than a 4x8.just a thought, I won't take offense if you stay on your present course.Fred W
If you are willing to start over, something like this might suit what you want to do a little better, and will fit in the same space, assuming you have access to the 4x8 on 3 sides. See http://www.layoutdesignservice.com/lds/samples/betterbeginnerlayout.htm
Disadvantage is a duck under. And you have to rebuild and cut up what you have. Advantages: wider radius and bigger track plan better suited to your modern era and prototype in HO. Sectional construction can be taken apart when you move. Will fit larger industries and longer trains than a 4x8.
just a thought, I won't take offense if you stay on your present course.
Fred W
JohnWPowell wrote: I was wondering how you know about the Indiana Railroad? Athern makes a sd42-2 in indiana rail colors Ii have one> John
I was wondering how you know about the Indiana Railroad? Athern makes a sd42-2 in indiana rail colors Ii have one> John
Lot of good ideas posted. The most important info I can give up is to just get started. A lots of ideas for doing scenery and such are in this forum, what works for one person, doesn't work for the next. So you try different ideas until you hit the one that works for you. You'll learn things, maybe change design several times, and when you've got the room, you will have a lot of knowledge built up for future layout.
Lot of good ideas posted.
The most important info I can give up is to just get started.
A lots of ideas for doing scenery and such are in this forum, what works for one person, doesn't work for the next. So you try different ideas until you hit the one that works for you. You'll learn things, maybe change design several times, and when you've got the room, you will have a lot of knowledge built up for future layout.
Hi,
try this site:
http://www.personainternet.com/mile77/
Also go to the links. It all deals with CP.
Frank
"If you need a helping hand, you'll find one at the end of your arm."
My two cents. Consider making this layout the beginning of your next layout. Cut the 4x8 down the middle to make two sections. Put them end to end making a 2 x 16 layout. ...or make in an "L" shape with the two 2 x 8 pieces. A mainline down the middle will eventually be connected to sections of the future layout. For now, model a small town with light industries. Use your existing 4 axle units to serve those industries. Save your money and wait for the next layout to buy larger locomotvies. Enjoy building the town.
Now get back to the books! Time to study! Get some A's!
Best wishes!
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
Don Gibson wrote:YOUR 4X8 is a 'beginners' railroad that is simple to make, requires minimum effort, but won't fit in a 10X10 room. It' DIMENSIONS require walking arount it - using 10'X16'of space, and severely limiting operations to small short wheel-based equipment (engines & cars).If you really are limited by space - but not imagination - 'N' scale is what you want. OR, in worst case it's 8'X16' of RR'ding on a 4X8 board.
YOUR 4X8 is a 'beginners' railroad that is simple to make, requires minimum effort, but won't fit in a 10X10 room.
It' DIMENSIONS require walking arount it - using 10'X16'of space, and severely limiting operations to small short wheel-based equipment (engines & cars).
If you really are limited by space - but not imagination - 'N' scale is what you want.
OR, in worst case it's 8'X16' of RR'ding on a 4X8 board.
Hawks05 wrote:All of my current locomotives are of the GP60, GP40, or GP38-2 variety. I'm looking to add some 6-axle power in the form of some SD40-2's as well as an SD60. My question would be is the SD60 to big to run on a 4x8 without looking "out of place"? I like the all red Soo locomotives. I know the SD40-2's wouldn't be all that bad looking. I know I won't be able to run any of CP's bigger locomotives on this little layout so for now I'm holding off on purchasing any of those. I have some purchases ahead of me to fill a CP/Soo roster. I figure I'll try and snag up a couple GP38-2 Soo locos and add the beacon light on top, probably not hooked up to work though.
<>For six-axle locomotives, it depends on the minimum radius of the curves. Most six-axles look funny on anything smaller than 26". The radii you're probably looking at for a 4'x8' are 22" and 18". Most six-axles like the SD40-2 will be too big for an 18" and could cause derailment problems, and don't fare much better on 22". The only six-axles I can thinks of that'll work on an 18" without problems would be early ALCo RSD's (i.e. RSD-3) and locomotives based on the SD7 frame (i.e. SD7,-9,-24,-26), though they would still look weird negotiating such tight curves . It sounds like you're modeling the modern era, and a quick check at thedieselshop.us's roster lists doesn't show any of those locos currently running for Soo/CP. If you wanted a plausible excuse to run any of those types of six-packs on your layout and stay prototypical, you could use "run-through" power from another road. BNSF's SD9s and Guilford's SD26s come to mind, but I've never heard of either type making it to Soo territory.
I know what you're going through- My layout isn't much bigger and doesn't even have scenery yet. Mine has 18" curves. I've only had one six-axle unit, a dummy Athearn SD45 that would derail most of my cars. I'm in the process of reconfiguring the layout to a switching yard layout so I can have more action in a confined space. If you take the same approach, your GP38-2s and GP40s would look and work fine in such a layout.
<>
Many of us struggle to find the "perfect" layout but more times than not, end up suffering from Paralysis through Analysis and NOTHING gets done.
In the December 1992 issue of Model Railroader, Lou Sassi & friends build a 4x8 layout with a center high hill scenery divider, several sidings and great potential. This is a layout you might find interesting, very easy to build and tons of fun to operate.
Prior to seeing this layout in the magazine, I spent almost 30 years trying to find the perfect layout to build as my first effort. I never got beyond the planning stage.
Lou's article is easy to follow and in less than 2 months of working several evenings a week, I duplicated his layout with a few of my own preferences. I operated it for a few years before attempting my next layout with the thought of making improvements and minor changes to the original. It was built even faster than the first because I was able to avoid numerous first-timer errors.
Since the second layout, I've built 10 or 12 for myself and other people. After the first one was begun, I never again suffered from being an armchair modeler.
What's my point? Forget about the perfect layout....you'll never find one. Just lay some track and start on the scenery. Before you know it, something will rise from the ordinary and become spectacular.
You can't have fun with an empty table. Just Do It!!! :-)