Mine doesn't move.......it's at the station!!!
I've used a wire brush to do additional shaping once they have been glued in place. This works well, but it is quite messy. I think if i was to use them again I would do most of the distressing or shaping off the layout first, then install the tiles. Just my .
GUB
I realy love the way cork looks when used to make rock - http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/thin%5Frocks/
My layout has no mountains, but I do have rock strata. I used the ceiling tile method along with some rock castings as part of the scene on the east bank of the Mrs. Hippy River.
Next is the scene with rock strata with the reefers on the track above it. In that case, I used the broken plaster method. I make sheets of plaster trying to keep the thickness down to 1/4". next I break it and then glue in pancake fashion. I fill gaps with spackling compound, and then stain with washes of acrylic paint. Advantage of broken plaster are texture seems like real rock and thickness varies. I prefer borken plaster over ceiling tile.
GARRY
HEARTLAND DIVISION, CB&Q RR
EVERYWHERE LOST; WE HUSTLE OUR CABOOSE FOR YOU
I didn't see that link the first time
I has some tiles but they got wet this summer
ah new england
Budliner wrote:http://www.pacificcoastairlinerr.com/rockfaces/
That is one of the links I gave earlier in this thread. That really is some good modeling, huh?
RT Wrote- you cannot, I believe, just walk into a store and say, "I want five ceiling tiles" although I am sure that boxes do get broken and that retailers may well sell individual tiles out of these broken cases.
My Home Depot sells individual tiles. They had a few broken ones just collecting dust the last time I checked. Probably get those for next to nothing.
Just be careful and use some type of breathing device when breaking,roughing up the tile as some of them have silicia (sp) that can do damage to your respitory (sp) system.
I found this out at my place of w**k when we started changing the old tiles with new ones.
Just my
John
tatans wrote:Those photos are great, the best looking outcrops I've seen yet on a layout, as opposed to the stacked "rock wall " effect, one of the keys is: a lot of geological formations do NOT remain horizontal, the angles are a very natural look. Great work ! !
You have that right! I have seen plenty layers that curve - even curve sometimes more than 270* of curvature in less than 100 yrds, and I bet that we all have see what happens to angles when sand dunes are fosselized and cemented into rock - angles going every which way.
pcarrell wrote:You mean like this or this? (click the links!)
From the far, far reaches of the wild, wild west I am: rtpoteet
Greg H. wrote: pcarrell wrote:You mean like this or this? (click the links!) Now that looks more like rock formations than stacked ceiling tile!!!
Now that looks more like rock formations than stacked ceiling tile!!!
To quote Ben Browder's famous line from "Farscape" and "Stargate SG-1"...
"Now, that's what I'm talkn' about!"
Conemaugh Road & Traction circa 1956
I have successfully used broken ceiling tiles for shale/out-cropping/cliffworks as many others have noted above. You break them and/or you can score to then snap them with a unitily knife on one side apx. 2-3 inches wide and use "an Elmer's Glue type" adhesive.
Only one side of the pieces need to have that jagged look; a thickness of 2-3 inches really helps by the time you break off one edge, and; that 2-3 inch thickness will be appreciated the higher you stack the cliffworks. You also will end up with pieces and shavings of all sizes by the time you are done which can then be inserted where you might have "some holes" in your cliffworks.
You also need to build your shale cliffs as if you are building a fieldstone wall in real life. So, be careful that all of your pieces don't look like "lego blocks" or "lincoln logs" as if they are a uniform assembly-line final product.
A light spray paint base, air-brushing, etc. and then weathering type techniques will follow.
The tiles can potentially suck up quite a bit of spray paint, but also look better than plaster where you want that shale & sedimentary rock appearance instead of the rockies/shield look.
If you are modeling an "east of the Mississippi" like a coal hauler with trackage surrounded by green foilage - this scenery technique can look quite convincing when mixed in with the local greenery.
The MR newsletter (3/1/07) that I used as a portal to the forums a few minutes ago has as its lead article, Using Ceiling Tiles for Rock Outcroppings.
I don't see any reason why ceiling tiles (or pieces thereof) can't be used as a subterranean base for alternative geologies (aka rock molded plaster) and/or ground goop. The stuff is heavier than blue foam, but so is almost every other kind of scenic material.
My one ceiling tile will be broken up and used to model rock strata when I find a suitable location.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Chuck Geiger wrote:These really only look good for rock outcroppings, not entire mountain or hill bases, go with foam!
I'll second the motion, ( no offence to those that have actualy used the stuff ) I have yet to see a entire mountian made of ceiling tile, that while it looked alittle like shale or slate, it mostly looked like a stack of broken ceiling tile, that had been painted.
And depending on how old the ceiling tiles are, there is a very real danger from asbestos.