how to make mountains

[Anonymous]

Not cheap, but very effective.

Layers of pink foam and 8 cans of Great Stuff foam for the final layer and rock formations. Shape, paint and you're done.

This is the method I used and some of the formations I got are simly amazing and very realistic looking.

[Anonymous]

How to make a mountain:
a] Get a politician who's trying to get nominated, [ or elected ]...
b] Hand him or her, a Mole Hill....
c] You'll have a Mountain very quickly.[;)][;)]
regards
Mike[:D]

[der5997]

Drier sheets are terrific for all sorts of things outside driers, but I doubt here. The static charge builds up on the cut surfaces, I fancy. So one would have to somehow gett he active agent onto the cuts and raspings. (I think that answers the static cling (tm) question too. has anyone tried a steam or water vapour gadget in close proximity to shaping the foam[?]

[orsonroy]

Static cling with foam is a bit of a pain, but I generally don't make so much of a mess that it's not manageable. For general carving, I use a knive or hacksaw blade, so the pieces don't really stick to anything. When I'm using a surefoam rasp, I make sure I have my shop vac handy, and vacuum up regularly. If I'm using a rasp to finely shape some scenic feature, I keep the vac nozzle running in one hand while I carve with the other. I also vacuum myself off before I leave the layout room, so I don't track little pink balls all over the house!

I wonder if rubbing the foam with a dryer sheet would do any good...?

[der5997]

orsonroy: I'm using foam on the latest layout, but haven't got to t he carving stage yet. So far just stacking layers. What do you do about the static cling problem? Getting shavings of foam to remove themselves from knife, fingers, anything else they touch is time consuming. Have you used a spray? How do you cope?[banghead]

[orsonroy]

I prefer using extruded foam insulation (pink or blue, NOT the white bead foam) for creating ANY scenery, since it's relatively cheap, easy to work with, forgiving, impact resistant, and extremely light. I've built mountains out of hardshell and foam, and will never use plasters on a layout again, since that method takes too long to work, too long to dry, and is too brittle.

On my last layout, I had a very large mountain in one corner which was about 15 feet long on one side, 10 feet long on the other, 1-3 feet deep, and five feet high at the summit. It was built so the top was removable for access to the tracks that ran through it, and could be lifted with one hand. I used two 4x8 sheets of 2" thick foam to build it.

Foam is messy to work with, but no more so than plaster. Foam is a 'dry' mess, meaning that cleanup is simpler. And since there's no prep or working time with foam, you can work on it when you have a spare 15 minutes after work. With a little practice (and some artictic talent) you can carve and replicate ANY rock formation directly onto the foam, eliminating the need for rock molds.

[der5997]

Fergie: 25x8 given over to HO or N? My as yet undecided Nova Scotia road is around the room roughly 16x8 +8x8 (a L shaped room) in N. It was going to be Cape Breton and Central Nova, but I thought the engine scheme too dull, and the herald too small in N. My three levels in one corner are going to be hidden by tall structures such as the elevators in Truro. Your Musquodoboit, Eastern Shore and Sydney sounds interesting. Since coming to the Eastern Shore I have thought that it's a shame the real rails didn't make it to Sheet Harbour. (We could do with the industry that such infrastructure would attract.)
The pulp mill trucked the occasional load to Musquodoboit, but most product left by sea.
I see from another topic that you run large passenger cars, and I am planning some VIA service. I also picked up a nice pair of Con Cor Bud cars about a year ago at George's show, so have the the means to provide some local service as well.

[cacole]

Styrofoam packing blocks that come in computer boxes, etc., can be stacked up, glued together with caulking compound, and then have newspapers, cloth, an old blanket, or whatever draped over and then plastered. I have even mixed different colors of paint into the plaster to speed up the scenery process. On the Cochise & Western Model Railroad Club's layout we have a floor-to-ceiling mountain made this way, so it weighs relatively little compared to other methods of construction because it's hollow.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by der5997

Fergus' tip "I'm also planning on trying Dry wall on its side and layered to simulate Gypsum formations." also works well using old cieling tile torn into strips and stacked to form sedimentary rocks. If you are able to slant the stacks, or even wet and bend the individual strips before stacking,you can get some pretty neat rock wall effects. Fergus, will the two layers of paper covering the drywall be a problem with the effect you want? Is it the open pit at Lantz you have in mind?

Good questions both, I'm thinking of peeling the paper back. As far as location I'm thinking more towards Little Narrows, Up in the Bras D'or Lakes. Maybe some other location. Remember the MESS is Freelance, this way I can use some poetic licences. Unfortunately you can only compress so much on a 25 x 8 space. Cape Breton will be a sub I'll have to model in my later years once the kids are moved out and I can declare the Basement all mine. Just a matter of time (and Money).[:D]

[Anonymous]

corugated cardboard strips stapled together, covered in torn up (hand size) pieces of newspaper glued on with wallpaper paste is an extremely cheap way of making mountains (you probably have all the ingredients lying around in your house if you haven't thrown them out already!)

it is springy and robust which is great if it gets knocked and it is easily patched and changed if you want to.

give it a coat of plaster and it looks the biz too but it a fraction of the weight of plaster over screen wire and a fraction of the cost of extruded foam.

its easy to do too.

[der5997]

Fergus' tip "I'm also planning on trying Dry wall on its side and layered to simulate Gypsum formations." also works well using old cieling tile torn into strips and stacked to form sedimentary rocks. If you are able to slant the stacks, or even wet and bend the individual strips before stacking,you can get some pretty neat rock wall effects. Fergus, will the two layers of paper covering the drywall be a problem with the effect you want? Is it the open pit at Lantz you have in mind?

[Anonymous]

I am experimenting with several mediums. The old fashioned way of building up a mountain using Cardboard strips weaved together and stapled to the board and then covered with paper mache does work and is cheap, especially if you use flour and water for the paste. Foam board also works . Plaster of paris is heavy but works well especially if you use molds. Woodland scenics offers a wide variety of products to build your scenery. I also use bark landscaping chips to line rivers with. I'm also planning on trying Dry wall on its side and layered to simulate Gypsum formations.

[dave9999]

I use foam board for the outside profile and newspaper wads covered with plaster
cloth. the plaster cloth can get expensive. I just bought a jug of plaster of paris for
5 bucks. I plan to give this a try as soon as I start my landscaping. Here's a photo
from my old layout. I took this picture looking down from the top of the mountain.
The second photo was an expansion w/ a tunnel. This layout has since been scrapped
and my third layout is in the works. Dave




If these pics are not showing up, right click on them and select veiw image.

[michaelstevens]

My favorite method is to;
(i) Construct a framework out of 1/2" and/or 1/4" ply off-cuts, establishing the general shape and profile of your landscaping. A grid system on 6" to 9" centers works well. You may want to use an occasional 2" x 4" post, for structural support.
(ii) Cover your framework with a single layer of "chicken wire", staple gun to the framework, occasionally. You can mold the wire, to your pleasure, between framework members.
(iii) You may want to add roads and/or building plots (e.g. with 1/8" hardboard).
(iv) Now add your chosen type of "hard shell" scenic covering and
(v) proceed to paint, turf, add trees etc.

Enjoy.

[Anonymous]

Try them all. Which ever your comfortable with, they all produce good results.You dont need Hydrocal plaster. You can use regular plaster of paris it's cheaper. I have used styrofom also from discarded shipping materials. Some people use foam boards. The kind they use to insulate homes, go buy a home that is being built and ask for the scrapes. You can use alot of different materials to build the support. Woodland makes plaster already on a cloth just dip in water and apply. Get some how to books from Kalmbach.

[Anonymous]

This is my first time ever making a layout. I have all the track and it is all planned out, but I cannot decide how to make mountain and hills. I have heard numerous ways to do this. I have heard about: Balled up newspaper with plaster sheets put over, Newspaper under wire screen with plaster sheets on top, and wire screen with a plaster substance slathered on. Which way would be the easiest? Cheapest? Best looking?